one thing or another
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2013
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one thing or another
flushing my radiator. went for a drive to cycle the water and drain. third time now. went to start my truck again, and nothing. not turning over, no clicking or anything. batteries good. cleaned terminals, and nothing. help, i need a gun...they shoot horse's don't they!
I'm pretty sure it's my starter again. just bought a new one few months ago. can someone please tell me why I go through alternators and starters so much. I'v had my 7.3 now for 6 years or so. in that time I'v had to replace alternator five times same with starters
I'm pretty sure it's my starter again. just bought a new one few months ago. can someone please tell me why I go through alternators and starters so much. I'v had my 7.3 now for 6 years or so. in that time I'v had to replace alternator five times same with starters
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 2
From: Bend Oregon
What year is your truck? Mine is a 2000 and has a starter relay on the passenger side of the engine compartment mounted to the fender. It died once and did as you are describing. Or it could be the relay on the starter, neutral safety switch ( try starting in neutral instead of park) or a broken wire. Do you have schematics and know how to use a volt meter?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 96
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What year is your truck? Mine is a 2000 and has a starter relay on the passenger side of the engine compartment mounted to the fender. It died once and did as you are describing. Or it could be the relay on the starter, neutral safety switch ( try starting in neutral instead of park) or a broken wire. Do you have schematics and know how to use a volt meter?
no schematics.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Onlsow, NC
Are you using OEM or aftermarket parts. So far, nearly every other part i've replaced that came from autozone or advance or o'rielly's i've had to go back and replace again. the first time or so it was no big deal as all parts have a lifetime warrenty, but after a while you just get tired of replacing the same damn part over and over and over. That warranty doesn't compensate for having to explain to a chevy guy why your ford is broke down again.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
2002 was a year that saw some changes in the starting system. I'll do my best to be clear on how to check it out.
1) Under the dash in the fuse panel is a "Relay" for the starter, Right beside it a rear defrost relay, swap them and see if your truck starts.
2) To jump the starter, use an 8" piece of 10 gauge wire, On the Passenger side, behind the batter, is a twist lock connector that provide power from the Key to the Starter Solenoid. Open the connecter and try to jump the stater using the 10 Gauge wire to the positive side of the battery. This won't start the truck, but will let you know if the starter works.
3) Your starter could be getting power, but still have issues. Mine did this back in May '13 and it was replaced with a new starter from NAPA. Good so far, what happened was the stater was getting power, but the newly designed all-in-one solenoid/starter unit has internal issues that caused the engagement to fail.
4) If you still get no turn-over, go to walmart and buy a voltage tester, start at the starter and ensure you have 12V constant on the big wire.
4b) Have someone turn the key and see if you have power to the solenoid jumper wire on the passenger side of the truck (See step 2).
4c) If you have power in the engine compartment, get back under the truck and test the solenoid connection at the starter when the key is turned by someone in the truck. If the truck tries to start, becareful not to jump and hit your head on the leaf spring.
These steps get you through the basic connections of the starting system at easy access points. Should your problem still exist, and you have confirmed power at all connection points, pull the starter and have it tested for a solenoid failure.
Seeing as you have gone though so many starters, have one built for you at an alternator shop to handle the current needs of the truck. You've confirmed power exists though the chain. Failure has to be the stater. I know when I've flushed my radiator, I had water go all over the place, it could have arc'ed in the freak options water completed a cirucit while you were trying to start the truck, not likely, but anything is possible.
So report back on where you find power and where you don't. I've had the in-dash relay fail, I've had the starter motor fail and the starter solenoid fail. All are a pain in the butt!
Let us know what you find.
1) Under the dash in the fuse panel is a "Relay" for the starter, Right beside it a rear defrost relay, swap them and see if your truck starts.
2) To jump the starter, use an 8" piece of 10 gauge wire, On the Passenger side, behind the batter, is a twist lock connector that provide power from the Key to the Starter Solenoid. Open the connecter and try to jump the stater using the 10 Gauge wire to the positive side of the battery. This won't start the truck, but will let you know if the starter works.
3) Your starter could be getting power, but still have issues. Mine did this back in May '13 and it was replaced with a new starter from NAPA. Good so far, what happened was the stater was getting power, but the newly designed all-in-one solenoid/starter unit has internal issues that caused the engagement to fail.
4) If you still get no turn-over, go to walmart and buy a voltage tester, start at the starter and ensure you have 12V constant on the big wire.
4b) Have someone turn the key and see if you have power to the solenoid jumper wire on the passenger side of the truck (See step 2).
4c) If you have power in the engine compartment, get back under the truck and test the solenoid connection at the starter when the key is turned by someone in the truck. If the truck tries to start, becareful not to jump and hit your head on the leaf spring.
These steps get you through the basic connections of the starting system at easy access points. Should your problem still exist, and you have confirmed power at all connection points, pull the starter and have it tested for a solenoid failure.
Seeing as you have gone though so many starters, have one built for you at an alternator shop to handle the current needs of the truck. You've confirmed power exists though the chain. Failure has to be the stater. I know when I've flushed my radiator, I had water go all over the place, it could have arc'ed in the freak options water completed a cirucit while you were trying to start the truck, not likely, but anything is possible.
So report back on where you find power and where you don't. I've had the in-dash relay fail, I've had the starter motor fail and the starter solenoid fail. All are a pain in the butt!
Let us know what you find.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
2002 was a year that saw some changes in the starting system. I'll do my best to be clear on how to check it out.
1) Under the dash in the fuse panel is a "Relay" for the starter, Right beside it a rear defrost relay, swap them and see if your truck starts.
2) To jump the starter, use an 8" piece of 10 gauge wire, On the Passenger side, behind the batter, is a twist lock connector that provide power from the Key to the Starter Solenoid. Open the connecter and try to jump the stater using the 10 Gauge wire to the positive side of the battery. This won't start the truck, but will let you know if the starter works.
3) Your starter could be getting power, but still have issues. Mine did this back in May '13 and it was replaced with a new starter from NAPA. Good so far, what happened was the stater was getting power, but the newly designed all-in-one solenoid/starter unit has internal issues that caused the engagement to fail.
4) If you still get no turn-over, go to walmart and buy a voltage tester, start at the starter and ensure you have 12V constant on the big wire.
4b) Have someone turn the key and see if you have power to the solenoid jumper wire on the passenger side of the truck (See step 2).
4c) If you have power in the engine compartment, get back under the truck and test the solenoid connection at the starter when the key is turned by someone in the truck. If the truck tries to start, becareful not to jump and hit your head on the leaf spring.
These steps get you through the basic connections of the starting system at easy access points. Should your problem still exist, and you have confirmed power at all connection points, pull the starter and have it tested for a solenoid failure.
Seeing as you have gone though so many starters, have one built for you at an alternator shop to handle the current needs of the truck. You've confirmed power exists though the chain. Failure has to be the stater. I know when I've flushed my radiator, I had water go all over the place, it could have arc'ed in the freak options water completed a cirucit while you were trying to start the truck, not likely, but anything is possible.
So report back on where you find power and where you don't. I've had the in-dash relay fail, I've had the starter motor fail and the starter solenoid fail. All are a pain in the butt!
Let us know what you find.
1) Under the dash in the fuse panel is a "Relay" for the starter, Right beside it a rear defrost relay, swap them and see if your truck starts.
2) To jump the starter, use an 8" piece of 10 gauge wire, On the Passenger side, behind the batter, is a twist lock connector that provide power from the Key to the Starter Solenoid. Open the connecter and try to jump the stater using the 10 Gauge wire to the positive side of the battery. This won't start the truck, but will let you know if the starter works.
3) Your starter could be getting power, but still have issues. Mine did this back in May '13 and it was replaced with a new starter from NAPA. Good so far, what happened was the stater was getting power, but the newly designed all-in-one solenoid/starter unit has internal issues that caused the engagement to fail.
4) If you still get no turn-over, go to walmart and buy a voltage tester, start at the starter and ensure you have 12V constant on the big wire.
4b) Have someone turn the key and see if you have power to the solenoid jumper wire on the passenger side of the truck (See step 2).
4c) If you have power in the engine compartment, get back under the truck and test the solenoid connection at the starter when the key is turned by someone in the truck. If the truck tries to start, becareful not to jump and hit your head on the leaf spring.
These steps get you through the basic connections of the starting system at easy access points. Should your problem still exist, and you have confirmed power at all connection points, pull the starter and have it tested for a solenoid failure.
Seeing as you have gone though so many starters, have one built for you at an alternator shop to handle the current needs of the truck. You've confirmed power exists though the chain. Failure has to be the stater. I know when I've flushed my radiator, I had water go all over the place, it could have arc'ed in the freak options water completed a cirucit while you were trying to start the truck, not likely, but anything is possible.
So report back on where you find power and where you don't. I've had the in-dash relay fail, I've had the starter motor fail and the starter solenoid fail. All are a pain in the butt!
Let us know what you find.
I did have water go everywhere, forgot to replace the small hose on right side of degas bottle. went for a drive, noticed it when i got back. I got the 10 ga. wire and tested the starter and nothing. Its the relay on starter Im sure. tried the starter relay next to the glow plug relay and nothing there either
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