I have a 03 F350SD with an intermittant ignition problem. Sometimes it wont start. key turns, lights come on dash, but nothing, not even a click. I have ran the key in and out and it has started, but then tried it the next time and nothing? Moved the Shift lever, no help. There is nothing consistent that I have done that isolates the problem. Just wondering if anyone has had something like this and can help? Thanks

 

I would start with checking my battery and cables. Make sure there ins't corrosion etc. everything is tight and clean.

 

Welcome to FTE DirtRacer ....
sorry, not up on that type of issue, I would bring mine to a mechanic to fix...
but it would have to be failing for them to isolate

And that may be your tact - isolate components until you find the failure...

1st make sure the key sends a signal --- do you have a remote start ? try that too...

 

03 F350 does not have PATS so the key would not be the issue. I would have to agree with Mat523. Check your cables including at the starter.

 

Its not battery or cables to starter. The truck does have a remote start and when this problem happens, the only way I can start it is with the remote. Just wondering if anyone else has had these issues? If the key doesnt have a chip in 03, then the ignition cylinder shouldnt be the problem, it turns fine. I'm thinking the actual Ignition switch at the base of the column? IDK, just dont want to tear a bunch of stuff apart and change it if I dont have to.

 

I'm not familiar with the. 03+, but on 02- with the 4R100/e4od there is a range selector on the trans that supplies a neutral signal to the starter. It's adjustable on slots and must be lined up. I've had an intermittent no start on an f550 due to this not being adjusted correctly. Simple to check and free. Forgive me if he 03's done use this system.

On the 4r100 the line on the switch body and the line on the shift shaft must line up with the selector in Neutral.

 

Hey Dirt Racer, the exact same thing happens with my '02, F-250 SD 7.3. Turn the key, nothing happens but it will start with the remote but then will stall when I hit the brake, as though it isn't recognizing the key in the lock cylinder (Depressing brake set to stall vehicle w/out Key for security purpose). However, if I put it in N., Unplug the brake pedal switch, remote start, I can shift it from N to D and all is fine using brakes, etc. but of course don't have brake lights. If I stop and put it in park, I'll have to do the same process over again in order to shift it out of park (brake pedal switch has to be plugged in to shift out of P) to make it run and drivable. I replaced the ignition switch (white housing at base of column under dash) and thought that did the trick because it immediately remedied the problem ... for a week, then sitting at a light, it stalled and the issue started again. I used a Dorman product and am going to try Motor-craft part to see if the Dorman was / is a faulty part. Also, I've replaced the ignition lock key tumbler, CPS, IPR, IPS, ... seems I'm chasing gremlin and hoping it's not wiring harness issue. I'll post again whether the Motor-craft ignition switch does any good.

 

This is a thread from 2014. Just asking is your remote start aftermarket and also have an alarm built in? Most of them have an igniton/crank kill relay built in. If so might be worth checking out the wiring.

 

Cargo Master, appreciate your reply and pointing that out. I'm brand new to this and apparently missed that it was an old thread.
BTW, I did try another ignition switch and now have two good one's and no change.
Great point about the Crank kill relay, I do have an aftermarket alarm, Clifford AvantGuard 5 which has been in it since it was a week old, not that it matters.
I thought about the security system but was hoping for a "common" Ford issue that someone else might have had. when I saw Dirt Racer mention only being able to start it with the remote, Bingo, or so I thought maybe it would lead to a "fix".

 

It totally matters. The Clifford brain is powered by two separate constant 12V circuits. Both had better have power. If one circuit doesn't (and I can't tell you which circuit), then the high current relays on the Clifford circuit board won't latch on Key On, and there will be no starting that truck from the ignition switch.

I haven't read every word of your story, but if your truck starts from bridging the starter relay, then it is likely you are dealing with a wiring problem on a circuit that is denying a trigger signal to that relay. The Clifford alarm is inline with that circuit, and therefore it matters. It may not be the problem after all, but it matters on the menu of diagnosis.