I have a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat with 111000 miles on it and now I have a ticking noise under acceleration only and after reading some stuff on here that makes me believe that it is the cam phasers. The question I have is what kind of damage can this cause? Is this something that I can continue running with and does the noise get worse and if so how much worse?

Thanks

 

Most cam phaser noise will be between 800-1200 RPMs with a little load to the engine and once warmed up. I have an 09 5.4 with 146,000 miles on it and have dealt with the tapping, knocking, rattling noise since 20,000 miles and have used only motorcraft filters and for the first 25,000 miles motorcraft 5W-20 until switching to Mobil 1 5W-20. (Always use the motorcraft oil filter-most other filters don't have the anti-drainback valve) Until a week ago, the noise had always been the same then while pulling away from parking the noise got so bad the engine was running rough and thought it was going to come unglued. Upon research I found that the cam phaser can in fact break and cause major engine damage. I know a ton of 5.4's that have had the noise and never been an issue but also heard the horror stories on them too that because they never fixed them they ended up blowing engines. So to answer your question, yes it can cause damage. If you have that noise in those rpms, it is most likely the variable valve timing problem. I fixed mine in about 2 hours. I diagnosed the VCT solenoids were bad. I unplugged the driver side VCT solenoid (where the major noise was coming from) and the noise went away almost immediately. Plugged it back in and the noise came back. I bought both new ones at the dealership and paid $63.42 a piece. Part number 8L3Z 6M280 B. I pulled the valve covers off to replace them both. The dealerships will want to do cam phasers and VCT solenoids at the same time and while they are there, want to do chains, tensioners, and chain guides which will get very pricey. Sometimes all that is needed but I will say I don't baby this truck at all and has been worked hard since brand new and I haven't done anything except normal maintenance, a passenger side exhaust manifold, and 2 new VCT solenoids to date. Not too bad for this many miles. If you decide to try and fix, this would be the cheapest and easiest start. If you replace the solenoids and the problem is still there, you would need to replace them anyway when doing the cam phasers. If you have some mechanical background its an easy task. Need a T27 torx bit, 7mm, 8mm sockets to complete the repair. Sorry for the long reply but wanted to share my experience with this problem.

 

Thanks for the reply. I noticed that mine started immediately after my last oil change so the use of the motorcraft filter may help. I can hear the noise while driving down the road but nothing more than a tapping and it does do it a little higher rpm than what you stated but still could be the vct solenoids I am guessing. I think it is worth a try to change them and then change the oil again with a motor craft filter and maybe try full synthetic oil.

Again thanks for your reply.

 

No problem. Since you started having the problem right after an oil change, I would start with another oil change first with the motorcraft filter. I have heard people swearing that theirs made noise because of another filter. If you don't have any other noise, I wouldn't replace the VCT solenoids yet. Seems these engines a plagued with issues and if you have a good one that doesn't make the noises, you got a rare one.

 

I really appreciate your help I was not real happy with hearing all the horror stories while I was searching for info.

 

Shotgun troubleshooting. Spending money replacing components without any actual diagnosis in attempt to fix a problem. Of course the problem with this is that you're not attempting to test any of the components, which is only sure to lighten your wallet and waste good parts.

It's your money and your truck, but unless you have a money tree I'd suggest actually trying to diagnose the problem. Sounds like it could be an exhaust leak to me.

What oil did you use? If it's an API-certified 5w20 you will fix NOTHING by changing it. Synthetic or dino, it's either the right stuff or it's not. Which oil filter did you use?

 

As someone who also has the "slappy" noise between 800-1200 RPM, especially when warm, I'd like to know more about the troubleshooting process "2workhorse" mentioned above. If the test is as easy as unplugging these solenoids, that would be a great and easy way to rule them out. Where are the plugs that need unplugging?

 

Here's the TSB for diagnosing a tick at idle when the engine is hot. I don't think it applies to the OP's situation, but who knows?

http://www.gdmjoe.com/gothf150/docum...sb10-18-04.pdf

 

There is a method of testing them with an ohms meter, not sure what the actual ohms should read at the moment. My ohms meter grew legs and was never seen again. For me, I had my son hold the gas with it in reverse and the e-brake set at 900 RPM's where it made the noise and disconnected the VCT solenoid on the front of the left valve cover. The noise went away immediately. Plugged back in and the noise came back within a few seconds. I did the same on the passenger side also. The VCT solenoid harnesses are at the front of each valve cover (the only wiring harness on the valve cover) If you do this, be prepared for the check engine light to come on. I have a programmer that allows me to read and clear codes. I also disconnected both of them and drove the truck in which was perfectly quiet, no noise whatsoever but definitely lost a little power in the lower RPM's. Since this seemed to "fix" my issue, I figured I would replace the VCT solenoids first. I was ready to order new cam phasers if this didn't fix it but after looking at the phasers while I had the valve covers off, everything including the timing chain guides appeared to be in excellent shape so took a chance on it. I know there are some that have only replaced the VCT solenoids and no change and needed additional repairs, but since this is a component of this type of system anyone who goes into these engines should replace them while there doing other timing work so it's not a waste of time. For those who say thicker oil will quiet it up, it may but with the tight tolerances of these engines, oil won't get to other parts of the engine fast enough like the timing chain tensioners and camshafts and wear them out faster. Early 4.6 powered police cars had a run of engine failures due to a shop using 10W-40 in my area. There is a reason Ford wanted 5W-20 to begin with and the logic seems true with how close everything operates. I have never used any "magic potion" in a bottle that permanently fixes a problem. There are lockouts that will disable the VVT function but from what I've read from others is a slight loss of power and lower fuel economy, 2 things I really didn't want to give up. To sum it up, seems if you disconnect the VCT solenoids and the noise goes away, there's your start. If this thread helps 1 other person, it was worth it for me to take the time to write it up. Good luck to all! Seems like my truck has a slight increase of power throughout the RPM range since the fix also.

 

Before you do any expensive changes, try this method first to see if it will rid the problem works for me. My 04 has ticked for awhile and instead of changing out the phasers I'll change my oil three times in a row 100 miles apart using FL-820 motorcraft oil filter and Mobile 1 5W-20 high mileage (75000) synthetic and this completely silences the ever dreaded knocking problem on my engine, this will get rid of some of the sludge in the einge as well. Work for a few others I've suggested this to as well.

Good Luck