LF Door Power window?
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From: Honolulu HI.
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From: MN
The window run molding is an overlooked problem that makes the other parts fail due to extreme drag if not all out stoppage of the windows up and down movement. I told my brother about it and he has the same problem with his 91' Toy Camry. If the problem is diagnosed early and correctly it will save the cost of replacing the other parts and add longevity to the whole power windows operation.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 173
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From: Honolulu HI.
The window run molding is an overlooked problem that makes the other parts fail due to extreme drag if not all out stoppage of the windows up and down movement. I told my brother about it and he has the same problem with his 91' Toy Camry. If the problem is diagnosed early and correctly it will save the cost of replacing the other parts and add longevity to the whole power windows operation.
I have the motor out right now, and I put the window up and down manually these days. That track (run channel) has some sticky spots for sure!
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From: MN
My new motor just arrived today and the regulator soon. We also got 7+ inches of snow over night so I will likely not get into the door for some time; weeks or longer as we still have loads of snow up here in Northern MN. I'm just keeping it closed for the most part.
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Reading other posts, I found out that the regulator motor has a *thermal resistor built in that stops the operation of the motor if it bottoms out and the button is still being pushed. Visa-versa also if the window tops out in the door to keep the motor from overheating. The *TR can fail by itself and cause intermittent operation of the power window. Just replace the motor assembly and regulator because all those parts have wear points that slowly degrade and cause problems.
Now I'm trying to find out what size bolts to attach the new regulator to the door with once the rivets have been drilled out. My new regulator came and no bolts or rivets were included with the New Motorcraft regulator. I don't think I'll have to drill out the motor detents in the door if I remove the regulator with the motor still attached and replace it the same way.
Now I'm trying to find out what size bolts to attach the new regulator to the door with once the rivets have been drilled out. My new regulator came and no bolts or rivets were included with the New Motorcraft regulator. I don't think I'll have to drill out the motor detents in the door if I remove the regulator with the motor still attached and replace it the same way.
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From: Honolulu HI.
Now I'm trying to find out what size bolts to attach the new regulator to the door with once the rivets have been drilled out. My new regulator came and no bolts or rivets were included with the New Motorcraft regulator. I don't think I'll have to drill out the motor detents in the door if I remove the regulator with the motor still attached and replace it the same way.
I can't remember if it was 1/4" or 3/16" bolts though...
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Another tip from the video: You can put some adhesive on the nuts that go on the regulator to make the installation easier to get started. I'll probably use grade 5 flanged lock nuts and bolts if I can find them.
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Rich G
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Apr 22, 2017 09:51 PM
