ATS 088

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Apr 5, 2014 | 06:35 PM

rc31080

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ATS 088

For those of you who have run these or are familiar with these kits, what kind of boost levels have you seen?

I scored a complete kit from a guy for 200 bucks. Spins good and no shaft play. I installed it and have had it on for close to a week now. Guages haven't come in yet so I've been taking it easy with it.

I'm just curious what others have experienced with these.

Thanks
Robby

Truck is a 92 F-250 4x4 Ex.Cab. bone stock except the turbo.

Apr 6, 2014 | 02:48 PM

hairyboxnoogle

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With a good pump maxxed out should do 18-20 psi. Same turbo as the 093 just different exhaust housing. Where the wye goes into the exh. housing on mine is wore pretty bad so ive got a good sized leak and manage 10-12psi @ 1150*

Apr 7, 2014 | 08:20 PM

SephirothE102

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From: Indianapolis

A bit off topic but since you just worked on an 088 you might be able to help me. I've got a big leak coming from the fuel return. Any basic tips to get the turbo off and get to that grommet?

Apr 7, 2014 | 11:05 PM

hairyboxnoogle

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Shouldnt have to take the turbo off to replace return lines / o-rings.

Apr 8, 2014 | 08:06 AM

rc31080

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SephirothE102

A bit off topic but since you just worked on an 088 you might be able to help me. I've got a big leak coming from the fuel return. Any basic tips to get the turbo off and get to that grommet?

Since you're referring to the grommet, I'm assuming you have an oil leak from the oil return?? If so, the turbo pedistal mounts to the rear of the intake manifold with two bolts. I use a 3/8 drive impact with a wobble extension and a shallow 1/2in socket to get the one closest to the exhaust housing. The other is easy to get to. You may have trouble getting the exhaust housing to separate from the up/down pipes. I haven't had that problem, but i've read that some guys have had luck dropping the up pipe out the bottom and bringing the down pipe out with the turbo assembly.

If I assumed wrong and you are infact having a fuel leak from the return lines, then like hairy said, you should be able to access all of them w/out removing the turbo. If you have the air box that came with the turbo, you'll have to remove that.

Hope this helps.

Robby

Apr 8, 2014 | 08:30 AM

rc31080

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Quote:

Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle

Thanks for the reply. I thought i remembered seeing in your sig that you had one of these.
I'm pretty sure i got it sealed up where the wye goes in. If it is leaking from there, its where i can't get my hands in there to feel for any exhaust coming out. I had to wrap the wye with exhaust wrap and use exhaust sealant to get it how it is now so it's probably as good as it gets.
I'd be happy with 10-12. I'm pretty sure my injectors are due for some rehab. Pump should be good, though. Its got about 40k on it's rebuild from a reputable shop in Orlando........guages come in this week, so we'll see.

Thanks
Robby

Apr 17, 2014 | 12:43 PM

rc31080

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Ok, so here's where I'm at. I got the gauges installed. EGT probe in the DS manifold between the rear 2 cylinders. Boost gauge in the intake hat and confirmed no kinks in the line. IP maxed.
Now, keep in mind, I live in Fl so not many hills. When I'm running about 60 and nail it, the boost gauge hits 5 pretty quick, but then stops and the EGT's soar to 1200 before I can hit 70-75. The turbo doesn't completely clear up the smoke, but it doesn't look like a freight train either.
I'm going to back the fuel off because I think that'll get the EGT's down a bit, but I feel like I should be pushing more than 5psi of boost.
The two things that pop into my head are a boost leak or maybe the hot side wheel of the turbo is ate up. I've never had it apart so I have no idea.

Any other ideas??

Thanks
Robby

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Apr 17, 2014 | 03:48 PM

rc31080

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The o ring may be my problem........as in it doesn't have one. I used an air cleaner gasket for a gasser.

I do have a drive leak, but its a small one. It seems impossible to me that those types of joints would ever seal completely.

I'll google the oring and see what I can come up with.

Thanks again.

Robby

Apr 17, 2014 | 07:39 PM

#10

FORDF250HDXLT

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From: Mi'kma'ki

Quote:

Originally Posted by rc31080

that'll work.you should rtv (the ultra black-high oil resistant) on both sides of the gasket.that's how i did it to chip.
Victor Reinz G27098 or
Fel-Pro 60038
Russ/type4 will sell ya the square cut o-ring if you'd rather.

you can't max out an oem n/a or turbo ip unless you install an intercooler.-at least not if you want to drive and or work the truck without keeping your eyes pegged to the pyro and puffing black on take off.

Apr 17, 2014 | 10:21 PM

#11

hairyboxnoogle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT

you can't max out an oem n/a or turbo ip unless you install an intercooler.-at least not if you want to drive and or work the truck without keeping your eyes pegged to the pyro and puffing black on take off.

I wouldnt go quite that far. Mine is maxxed and works all the time. I have to let out of it due to overheating long before i eclipse 1200