need dome light diagram
There is a connection up by light that was loose and tightened connections at ignition and headlight switch. The connection about 8 inches from light bulb housing was loose.
Now the question is...what's the easiest way to wire the light constant power not ignition switched
Now the question is...what's the easiest way to wire the light constant power not ignition switched
Following the wire through connector “D”, we’ve got wire B-BL, which goes to connector “A”.
The other side of Connector “A” has two wires, 53B and a wire that’s common with 53A at connector C.
If either of these wires (53A or 53B) provide voltage (like if either door is opened), then the dome light should illuminate.
So the voltage is necessary at the sockets that the Door Courtesy Switches plug into. That means it has to come from wire 54A (for wire 53A to work the light) or from 54B (for wire 53B to work the light).
The other way to turn on the light is to use the switch that’s in the dash – we can ignore that at the moment.
Wire 54A is common to wire 54 (at connector “B”). The line on the schematic that shorts these two wires together is redundant. Since the wires are connected together at the connector, they don't need to be shown as connected together anywhere else.
Wire 54B is also common to wire 54, except it connects to wire 54 at connector “E”.
What isn’t shown clearly on this schematic is that wire 54 is common to wire 54. There’s a horizontal line coming from the fuse block that goes to the switch and a vertical line from the two connectors that should have a dot to indicate that the two lines are common. Wire 54 comes from the fuse block and then goes three ways: the right door, the left door and the light switch. Where the actual connection is physically located doesn’t seem to be indicated in this illustration. It looks like it is somewhere between connector “B” and connector “E”.
There is nothing in this circuit that is common to the fuel tank sender, it's just that one of the wires for the sender and one of the wires for the dome light both take the same route through the door frame.
Following the diagram in Post #5, it’s obvious that one side of the dome lamp goes to ground, so the signal has to come from the other side of it.
Following the wire through connector “D”, we’ve got wire B-BL, which goes to connector “A”.
The other side of Connector “A” has two wires, 53B and a wire that’s common with 53A at connector C.
If either of these wires (53A or 53B) provide voltage (like if either door is opened), then the dome light should illuminate.
So the voltage is necessary at the sockets that the Door Courtesy Switches plug into. That means it has to come from wire 54A (for wire 53A to work the light) or from 54B (for wire 53B to work the light).
The other way to turn on the light is to use the switch that’s in the dash – we can ignore that at the moment.
Wire 54A is common to wire 54 (at connector “B”). The line on the schematic that shorts these two wires together is redundant. Since the wires are connected together at the connector, they don't need to be shown as connected together anywhere else.
Wire 54B is also common to wire 54, except it connects to wire 54 at connector “E”.
What isn’t shown clearly on this schematic is that wire 54 is common to wire 54. There’s a horizontal line coming from the fuse block that goes to the switch and a vertical line from the two connectors that should have a dot to indicate that the two lines are common. Wire 54 comes from the fuse block and then goes three ways: the right door, the left door and the light switch. Where the actual connection is physically located doesn’t seem to be indicated in this illustration. It looks like it is somewhere between connector “B” and connector “E”.
There is nothing in this circuit that is common to the fuel tank sender, it's just that one of the wires for the sender and one of the wires for the dome light both take the same route through the door frame.
Following the wire through connector “D”, we’ve got wire B-BL, which goes to connector “A”.
The other side of Connector “A” has two wires, 53B and a wire that’s common with 53A at connector C.
If either of these wires (53A or 53B) provide voltage (like if either door is opened), then the dome light should illuminate.
So the voltage is necessary at the sockets that the Door Courtesy Switches plug into. That means it has to come from wire 54A (for wire 53A to work the light) or from 54B (for wire 53B to work the light).
The other way to turn on the light is to use the switch that’s in the dash – we can ignore that at the moment.
Wire 54A is common to wire 54 (at connector “B”). The line on the schematic that shorts these two wires together is redundant. Since the wires are connected together at the connector, they don't need to be shown as connected together anywhere else.
Wire 54B is also common to wire 54, except it connects to wire 54 at connector “E”.
What isn’t shown clearly on this schematic is that wire 54 is common to wire 54. There’s a horizontal line coming from the fuse block that goes to the switch and a vertical line from the two connectors that should have a dot to indicate that the two lines are common. Wire 54 comes from the fuse block and then goes three ways: the right door, the left door and the light switch. Where the actual connection is physically located doesn’t seem to be indicated in this illustration. It looks like it is somewhere between connector “B” and connector “E”.
There is nothing in this circuit that is common to the fuel tank sender, it's just that one of the wires for the sender and one of the wires for the dome light both take the same route through the door frame.
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