Intermittent Oil Light
Thread Starter
|
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
This is something that has bugged me for a while in my F100. When the key is in either ACC or RUN, both the GEN and OIL lights should illuminate. Sometimes, more often than not lately, the OIL light will not illuminate. A tap on the speedo glass will sometimes cause it to light up, lately not so much. I tried cleaning the socket and bulb. That didn't help.
Most of the dash lights ground to the back of the speedo, the OIL light has two wires, don't think grounds like the others. Have tried jostling wires in the dash to duplicate, nothing. Sometimes it works when I turn the key on, sometimes not.
When actually starting, it will illuminate briefly, and then go out as oil pressure comes up just like normal. It works OK in that sense, I think, and after an oil change it lights up for a few seconds. But it bugs me that it doesn't come on with the key to warn me if the bulb is burned out.
Any ideas how to track this one down? I will try cleaning the socket and bulb contacts (again) and see if that's it, maybe pull the sender and make sure it's getting good contact with block.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Most of the dash lights ground to the back of the speedo, the OIL light has two wires, don't think grounds like the others. Have tried jostling wires in the dash to duplicate, nothing. Sometimes it works when I turn the key on, sometimes not.
When actually starting, it will illuminate briefly, and then go out as oil pressure comes up just like normal. It works OK in that sense, I think, and after an oil change it lights up for a few seconds. But it bugs me that it doesn't come on with the key to warn me if the bulb is burned out.
Any ideas how to track this one down? I will try cleaning the socket and bulb contacts (again) and see if that's it, maybe pull the sender and make sure it's getting good contact with block.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Thread Starter
|
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
OK. After thinking it over, remember somebody once suggested to check that there isn't Teflon tape on the threads of the oil pressure sender or something preventing a good ground. I reasoned then that if it works at all, that couldn't be it. Plus, it sometimes lit after tapping on the speedo glass. Gotta be something related up there, in the socket or wiring, not at the sender.
Well, figured what could do to eliminate the sender ground as a possibility is just break the threads a little bit on that thing, work it back and forth a couple times to make sure it has good ground just to see what that does.
I'll be dipped. That fixed it! Been like that for over ten years at least.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Well, figured what could do to eliminate the sender ground as a possibility is just break the threads a little bit on that thing, work it back and forth a couple times to make sure it has good ground just to see what that does.
I'll be dipped. That fixed it! Been like that for over ten years at least.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Thread Starter
|
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yeah, it's not like there's a whole lot goin on up there with dash lights to begin with on these things. It lights up real purty now. I just checked.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Suggest check the connection at the Constant Voltage Regulator (CVR) and make sure it's secure; in addition, any frayed, or loose wires. If the instrument panel is of the 'sweeping speedo' variety, then check ground connection between the metal section of the plastic instrument panel to the ground part of the dash. With my 65 CC dash I added an extra ground strap from the metal portion of the CC dash to a clean point on the pedal assembly. If other instruments are also acting up may be faulty CVR, which can be tested w/ a volt meter, should fluctuate from between 0-10 volts, acts as a voltage shock absorber?? Anyhow, had an urge to chime in??
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...reDiagP5-1.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...78d9dbd7af.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...reDiagP5-1.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...78d9dbd7af.jpg
Thread Starter
|
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Dave, that particular problem is fixed!
Banner day, beers all around.
I shoulda bought stock in whatever company makes those CVR's, btw. Those little bass turds are about the size of a chiclet and some parts store wants 40 bucks or more. Think I paid $23. A few dollars of rat shack parts will accomplish the same task if it really needs replacement.
Everybody wants to replace that thing, along with entire fuel sending units, because of innaccurate gauge indications for fuel and temp on these old trucks and the CVR isn't the problem.
Solved the inaccurate fuel indication, by adjusting the float arm. the only bug left seems to be the TEMP indicator always reads on the low side. Actual engine temp is much higher than indicated. Guess I could try a new sender, but will experiment with running a new ground strap - that's good advice.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Banner day, beers all around.
I shoulda bought stock in whatever company makes those CVR's, btw. Those little bass turds are about the size of a chiclet and some parts store wants 40 bucks or more. Think I paid $23. A few dollars of rat shack parts will accomplish the same task if it really needs replacement.
Everybody wants to replace that thing, along with entire fuel sending units, because of innaccurate gauge indications for fuel and temp on these old trucks and the CVR isn't the problem.
Solved the inaccurate fuel indication, by adjusting the float arm. the only bug left seems to be the TEMP indicator always reads on the low side. Actual engine temp is much higher than indicated. Guess I could try a new sender, but will experiment with running a new ground strap - that's good advice.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2ndmouse
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
May 10, 2004 08:38 PM
