new guy looking for advice
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new guy looking for advice
hi guys, it seems i have to join yet another forum to try and find the experts to cure my latest vehicles problems. i probably do this once every few months....
im dan from the UK and ive just bought an '88 bronco II but i have a list of issues as long as my arm...
the headlights just dont work...
any tips? the fuses are fine.
where is the best place to order parts? being in the Uk its always cheaper for me to ship to the UK direct
this isnt my first american vehicle, ive had my share. and currently own a 1972 IH loadstar in JD livery.. hoping to use the bronco for some off road fun if i can leanr enough. i dont have a clue about 4x4's so go easy on the limey.
Dan
im dan from the UK and ive just bought an '88 bronco II but i have a list of issues as long as my arm...
the headlights just dont work...
any tips? the fuses are fine.where is the best place to order parts? being in the Uk its always cheaper for me to ship to the UK direct
this isnt my first american vehicle, ive had my share. and currently own a 1972 IH loadstar in JD livery.. hoping to use the bronco for some off road fun if i can leanr enough. i dont have a clue about 4x4's so go easy on the limey.
Dan
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Joined: Nov 2006
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When you turn on your lights, does the rest of them turn on? If so start with the basics, check all the conections for the lights, check to make sure that by some weird crap both low beam and high beam are burned out. If all the conections are made then get a circuit tester and start from the furtherst point of the wiring harness, do along checking to make sure you have juice. Do that and let me know how you do. You oil light could be a faulty senser, stuff does go bad, but i would defently check your oil pump. What kind of oil do you have, is it cold outside when you start it up? It could be your oil is way to thick and untill it warms a bit it'll be hard for the oil to circulate.
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rich thanks for the reply.
will get the tester out in the morning. i do know that the previous owner added a fog light to the lighting loom and that he had the fog light on when the problem occured so im expecting the issue to be at the rear, so will as you say start at the back.
as for the oil its a real worry, if the issue is the pump is there any way to test it? the oil would probably be a 10-40 and somtimes the light comes on when the truck is warm anyway so im ruling out the viscosity (word of the day for me..) of the oil.
if the pump was broken what symptoms would i expect? i assume it would eventually seize?
will get the tester out in the morning. i do know that the previous owner added a fog light to the lighting loom and that he had the fog light on when the problem occured so im expecting the issue to be at the rear, so will as you say start at the back.
as for the oil its a real worry, if the issue is the pump is there any way to test it? the oil would probably be a 10-40 and somtimes the light comes on when the truck is warm anyway so im ruling out the viscosity (word of the day for me..) of the oil.
if the pump was broken what symptoms would i expect? i assume it would eventually seize?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
> could this be a faulty oil sensor
Most likely it is clogged on the end by gunk from people that did not change their oil enough. Remove and clean, it is on the driver side, lower part of the engine.
Most likely it is clogged on the end by gunk from people that did not change their oil enough. Remove and clean, it is on the driver side, lower part of the engine.
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thasnks rebo. now i know where to look i will give it a wipe. i also came across this info. any thoughts? i have the leaking cover gaskets..
A: The problem is not the oil pressure sending unit or the oil pump...that v-6 is notorious for the 5 quarts of oil in the oil pan to be pump throughout the motor and making it last stop up through the push rods from the lifters...the oil is not returning to the bottom of the motor quick enough (to the oil pan and oil pump) there are 4 small drain holes casted through the heads one hole at each end of the head that provide a path for the oil to reach the oil pan and pump...If you have your mechanic or yourself to remove the valve cover and you will see that the drain holes are stopped up somewhat and that causes the ticking because there is very little if any oil to recirculate back through the motor...The previous owner didn't change the oil as often as they should have causing sludge build up. a way to check it is to go out and check the oil in the motor with the engine cold....then start it up and let it start to tick like before...once it starts to make the ticking noise shut the motor off and check the oil..it will be super low if on the dip stick at all...it normally takes 1 minute or less for the ol to drain down...you will notice it takes yours a great deal longer...also I willing to bet that you have oil leaks that seem to be coming from the valve cover gaskets and valve covers...that is because the oil is trapped in the upper part of the engine and starts to saturate the gasket and starts to leak at these points. Let me know if and when this is confirmed...
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i'll be damned if i can find the sensor. what with all the wiring and tubes in the way. im suprised buy the cramped engine bay considering its a 2.9ltr and such a big truck. im guessing it'll be right behind the chassis rails.. ordered the manual but that will take a week to arrive, till then im wrenching blind
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ok ive done the testing on the headlights and its the switch itself. a common fault aparently when looking for new ones. ive found the oil sensor so will take that out tommorow
just need to find a good stateside parts dealer now, any ideas?
just need to find a good stateside parts dealer now, any ideas?
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From: Washington County, ME
You could try NAPA online. I have always had great luck with them. I think they make thw best oil filter in the world, and ignition parts. Also, when you have 12 volt load problems that are controled with low voltage switches, check the releys also. I also own an 88 B2 and its fully restored, but the body. They are great 4X4's, just watch out for tight cornering above 25mph. What part of the UK are you from?
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im south of london nr gatwick airport. had some bad news today. the switch ive got its coming in the morning so lights shouyld be sorted but coming home the truck just died on me. i was driving over speed bumps at the time so could be a loose wire perhaps the truck tries to start but feels like its out of gas. hoping on inspection the problem will be the fuel pump. any idea where that is until i get the manual?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,237
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From: Belleville, Ontario
Run through the basics....
Start with all the connections from the battery outward including the small body ground, etc., etc., etc. .....
Do you have spark?
Get a helper to turn the key to the run position while you listen closely for the fuel pump.
Open the right side kick panel & unbolt the connector at the computer & check for corroded contacts. Look closely at the floor pan directly under the computer for water damage.
Check for codes.
Pin pointing the fault might not come easy.
AL.
Do you have spark?
Get a helper to turn the key to the run position while you listen closely for the fuel pump.
Open the right side kick panel & unbolt the connector at the computer & check for corroded contacts. Look closely at the floor pan directly under the computer for water damage.
Check for codes.
Pin pointing the fault might not come easy.
AL.
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thanks for the advice AL. i will check as you say. could be something real simple itsjust a matter of finding the problem. kind of puts a damper on getting the new light switch today too.
yet another questions though..
ive found suzuki rims will fit the bronco. what im not sure off is widths. should i get as wide-a-tyre as possible? and then if i do how wide should the rim be in comparrison? i take it steel rims are better in this application than alloy?
yet another questions though..
ive found suzuki rims will fit the bronco. what im not sure off is widths. should i get as wide-a-tyre as possible? and then if i do how wide should the rim be in comparrison? i take it steel rims are better in this application than alloy?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
Many driveability problems and no starts are directly related to the TFI module (think this is the 3rd post this morning). Not a question of if, but, when, it will fail. Both (Chevy?) and Ford lost their class action lawsuits on the TFI designs last time I checked.
Bad ones will not throw codes or will throw a whole bunch.
Start with the easy to solve $30 problem that will effect every system. If it turns out to be good, remove it, apply new heat sink grease to the old one once the truck is running correctly, and keep the new one with tools and grease in the glovebox.
re:headlamp switch
Look for a wire pulled out (actually pushed or loose) of the top of the harness connector.
Test for power coming into the harness connector. There should be 12V on at least two of the wires coming to the connector. Big red and yellow ones with black stripes if memory serves me correctly. If not, then a fusible link is gone.
When you turn on the lamp switch, you should see power comming off the connector that goes to the various lamps.
You need a diagram for this, though it is pretty easy to figure out since the yellow, brown, and green wires go the connector for the steering column.
Bad ones will not throw codes or will throw a whole bunch.
Start with the easy to solve $30 problem that will effect every system. If it turns out to be good, remove it, apply new heat sink grease to the old one once the truck is running correctly, and keep the new one with tools and grease in the glovebox.
re:headlamp switch
Look for a wire pulled out (actually pushed or loose) of the top of the harness connector.
Test for power coming into the harness connector. There should be 12V on at least two of the wires coming to the connector. Big red and yellow ones with black stripes if memory serves me correctly. If not, then a fusible link is gone.
When you turn on the lamp switch, you should see power comming off the connector that goes to the various lamps.
You need a diagram for this, though it is pretty easy to figure out since the yellow, brown, and green wires go the connector for the steering column.