Couple questions about this - have digested quite a few different threads about this here and other sites first. A few different methods, more than one way to skin a cat. As a practical matter how often should this be done? It's been several thousand miles for my 292. It's running really well, not a lot of clatter, but way past the schedule. This sounds stupid, and it is, but have been leery about removing valve covers simply because I really hate leaks. They don't leak now, and want to keep it that way. But they gotta come off because it's got to be done, need to learn how to do this, etc. One method I read seems pretty simple (I'm a simple guy) and wanted to run this by you guys. Not as simple as Walt Nuckels method, but at this point just wanting to get a general handle on the procedure, and not sure what type of hardware is installed in my application.

Here's my plan. Mark plug wires, remove all plugs for ease of rotation and such. Remove both valve covers. By hand, bring number 1 cylinder to TDC, both valves closed. Mark damper at three other points 90* from TDC. Adjust rocker arm clearance .019 cold engine, both valves. If there is excessive wear, a flat feeler gauge will not give an accurate indication. But for now, let's assume they are OK.

Rotate engine 1/4 turn to next mark, adjust both valves on #5 cylinder. Rotate 1/4 turn to next mark, valves closed on #4 cylinder, adjust, etc, continuing in the same manner through firing order. Anyone see problems with this method?

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I only do mine about every 10,000 miles. That method works fine, be sure when #1 is at TDC it is on the compression stroke and not at the between exhaust closing and intake opening stroke. .019 is the HOT setting, if you set that cold the clearance will close up when hot. The last time I tested this on a new engine I set them to .019 cold and rechecked after reaching operating temp and most were close to .017.

 

The manual sez cold lash is .019, hot lash .018?

What I'm thinking is set everything up to .019 best I can, just to be sure everything is on the same sheet of music and nothing is too far out. The key will be to make sure getting a true measurement because of wear.

The method that utilizes known thread pitch from Walt Nuckels sounds real promising but want to first see the condition of the adjustment/jam nuts before I do anything different. Some folks just tighten up to zero lash, and then back off a 1/4 turn, this will probably work fine once so get a feel for it.

Also interested in the general health of the valve train and lifters, and how well it's oiling up there, and any sludge buildup. Tried to be good about oil changes but it ran pretty crappy for quite a while before I had a handle on these Y blocks. Should be interesting. Valve covers have cork gaskets. Torque is only about 25 inch pounds, hope I don't bugger these up, leakage wise.

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You are right as far as the manual goes, I just looked in a 64, I find it strange as all earlier ones say .020 Cold .019 Hot. I've always set mine at .019 on Yblocks, I don't know why 64 is different . You are always safer being a little loose then too tight.

There are rubber gaskets also but I've never used them.

 

That's what I wondered about - engine is pretty quiet now that I got everything tuned up good, new dizzy and damper, timing set right, idle mixture, etc. maybe too little lash?

Vacuum gauge readings seem excellent. At idle the needle just barely fluctuates slow, maybe an eighth or a quarter of an inch of vacuum on the dial, not much at all. It clatters or raps a bit when cold but quiets down when warmed up. Like a quiet typewriter somebody said.

If it don't clatter it ain't set right? Sooner or later we'll be on a long road trip and want to make sure they are on the money.

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Check with the guys on the YBlock forum and see what they say. I personally like .019, a little clatter at idle is normal..

 

Think I'm going to pick up a fresh tube of RTV before I do this. What's the good stuff to use in this application, the ultra black??

hey thanks for the advice and help

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OK. Removed plugs, they look way better than before my tuneup. Was pretty happy to see no sludge buildup under the valve covers. Maybe 20k since rebuild. Haven't marked the damper yet to get everything dialed in exact, but messing around a bit and checking a few cylinders at TDC it seems that some are bit tighter than they should be .016 maybe, some are a bit loose, maybe .021; given the condition and relatively recent rebuild I think using a flat feeler gauge is OK, may experiment with Nuckels method too. Checked head bolt torque at minimum of 65 ft lbs, none moved a lick.

 

I start at TDC on #1 and rotate 90 degrees through the firing order. Tighten down until you cannot rotate the push rod with you fingers then loosen 15 minutes (1/4 turn) for high ratio rocker arms and 16 minutes for low ratio rocker arms. I tried 15 minutes with my low ration arms and it felt and sounded too tight.

Silicone the gasket to the valve covers and coat the rim of the head and the bottom of the gasket with oil. The gaskets will last many adjustments if they do not stick to the heads. Tighten the cover to 2 ft/lb or pretty snug with you hand at the ratchet head. You can snug them down more it they seep. I use beam style torque wrench and mine have never leaked but I am surprised to get nearly a half turn after the wrench and reaches 2 ft/lb before it reaches 3.

The feeler guage is to clumsy for me and I burn my hands. I adjust when the motor is warm but not enough to get burned. After several practice runs, I can now adjust the valves in 30 minutes. My truck does not get driven many miles so and I adjust once a year. The shop manual indicates 18,000 or one year.

 

I was going to ask about the high ratio stuff. How do I tell that, and or can you tell from the photo I posted here or in my album? Is 15 or 16 minutes going to matter that much, considering how far they are out now?

There aren't any jam nuts on this valve train assy afaik, so they must be friction fit? That is, just turn clockwise to decrease lash, CC to increase lash?

Have a new damper installed. When I bring #1 up to TDC indicated on the damper, that IS exactly TDC, right? (And every 90* after in firing order) just want to be sure all the slop is where it needs to be, valves for sure closed, and I think it will go fine.

Valve covers were stuck on pretty good, no sealant on the bottom though. Not sure how that works. Can I get away with not replacing the gasket??

Thanks for the help everyone!

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High ratio rocker arms have ECG on them.

1/4 turn will work for either high or low ratio. The difference is very small and you will not be that accurate by hand.

If the adjuster screws have a hex for a wrench, they are friction fit but they do wear out. If they turn as easily as a normal bolt, they are garbage and you will need to replace them.
There is a jam nut style and it is slotted for a screwdriver, rather than a hex.

TDC on the damper will be close enough for valve adjustments and setting your timing but it probably will not be exact tdc. Manufacturing tolerances make that almost impossible. There is a way to check, but it is not practical or really that important at this point.

Gaskets stick after a while. If they didn't tear, you could get away with using them again but they're cheap. Replace them. Use a few dabs of silicone on the valve cover to hold them in place and wipe a little oil on the rail around the head to prevent them from sticking as quickly.

When the valve have been adjusted, look at the height of all of the screws. For a healthy valve train, they will all be the same height. If they are not, then something is wrong but it may not be anything serious. You just have to figure out why. It could be different length pushrods or a sloppy valve job which aren't necessarily something to worry about but should be addressed when time and money allow. Or it could be a sinking valve or flattening lobe, etc. and those are things to worry about.

 

OK. Pretty much found a standard flat feeler gauge is of course a pita. And it doesn't take into account any wear as others have noted. Went through every cylinder a couple times, what seems to work consistent is to tighten to zero lash, the lifter won't spin with finger pressure at this point. Then back off 15 or 16 minutes of rotation depending on application. This works slick and accounts for any slop or wear in each assembly.

Coated the valve cover gaskets with oil and they soaked that right up, will add another coat and get things buttoned up and see how it sounds.

edit: Hey Charlie - must have been writing when you were. Yeah, the adj nuts were all pretty tough to turn, kind of a friction fit. They aren't gonna move on their own. Will have to order some gaskets I guess. I think everything was pretty close to begin with, but having checked them keeps me from worrying about it.


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Fired it up, took er for a spin and then re-adjusted idle mixture. Idles real nice, runs good!

Thanks folks.

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Here is a recent thread on adjusting the valves. Feeler guages are a PITA. I use the zero lash method in the link, more accurate and quicker.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...alve-lash.html