Flathead Valve Adjustment
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Flathead Valve Adjustment
There's a "tick" coming from my 239 flatty that I'm trying to cure. My guess is that it's coming from a valve. I'ts got the newfangled adjustable lifters.(Never again BTW) My plan is to find TDC compression on #1 and turn the crank 1/4 turn and check/adjust along the firing order, setting the intakes at .014 and the exhaust at .018.
Anyway, how have you guys done this procedure? If I find any loose adjusters do you think putting some red threadlock on would help? Any other tips? Thanks.
Anyway, how have you guys done this procedure? If I find any loose adjusters do you think putting some red threadlock on would help? Any other tips? Thanks.
Fleet Owner
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From: NM
Did you install the adjustables? In other words, do you know what brand they are? There have been some real stinkers marketed recently, out of South Africa I believe, and they didn't have consistent profiles on their faces. They can be expected to wear quickly, causing a tick even if the adjuster is locked firmly.
From your question on LocTite, am I correct that yours don't use locking nuts? just tight threads? The fit of those S.A. adjusters has also been reported to be questionable (won't hold a setting), but almost any can come loose. You can "bugger" the threads a little to make them tighter, sometimes.
I believe most people are using .013 and .017 for clearances on 8BA's, if that's what you've got, but there are differences between '50-'51 and '52-'53 depending which retainer style you have. Can't go too wrong anywhere around there.
Last but not least, are you possibly getting valve seat deposits that need to be blown off? Take it out right away and do a few WFO runs to make sure!!
From your question on LocTite, am I correct that yours don't use locking nuts? just tight threads? The fit of those S.A. adjusters has also been reported to be questionable (won't hold a setting), but almost any can come loose. You can "bugger" the threads a little to make them tighter, sometimes.
I believe most people are using .013 and .017 for clearances on 8BA's, if that's what you've got, but there are differences between '50-'51 and '52-'53 depending which retainer style you have. Can't go too wrong anywhere around there.
Last but not least, are you possibly getting valve seat deposits that need to be blown off? Take it out right away and do a few WFO runs to make sure!!
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It's actually the second set of adjustables. On the first set several of them loosened up almost immediately. The machine shop that rebuilt my engine replaced them with a different set. No big deal other than I had to take the engine out again so they could take the heads off and replace them.
They said the screws were of an offset thread design but I don't know what brand they are or where they got them other than I recall some talk about China
but South African wouldn't surprise me either. They said the next flathead would get the old fashioned grind till it fits method.
I haven't taken the intake off yet but how do you get in there to "bugger up" the threads? Back them out and pound on the screw with a small chisel or screwdriver?
She gets wide open quite a bit since I put in the 3.25 rear so I doubt it's got much for deposits yet.
Thanks. John
They said the screws were of an offset thread design but I don't know what brand they are or where they got them other than I recall some talk about China but South African wouldn't surprise me either. They said the next flathead would get the old fashioned grind till it fits method.I haven't taken the intake off yet but how do you get in there to "bugger up" the threads? Back them out and pound on the screw with a small chisel or screwdriver?
She gets wide open quite a bit since I put in the 3.25 rear so I doubt it's got much for deposits yet.
Thanks. John
Last edited by JDMick; Aug 12, 2005 at 07:57 PM.
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