the front end of the engine squeaks but when I put belt dressing on the belt it will stop squealing for about 5 seconds and tjen starts back., is anyone have experience like this, would this be the drive belt issue or a pulley issue. 1999 ford f250. Thanks

 

I would change the serpentine belt first and see if it goes away. Probably time anyways, especially if it's talking to you.

If not, the tensioner isn't a big deal to replace and that would be my second option.

Belt dressings...isn't that what your waist belt needs once in a while to hold up your pants? Don't waste your money.

 

^ x2 on the serpentine belt.


Back in Feb. my truck developed a squeal. The serpentine belt was bought within a year prior. I was thinking squeal was coming from tensioner or idler pulleys.


Lots of folks recommended changing the belt first. Mine was still under warranty, so I changed it out.


No more squeal.


Good luck finding your problem,

 

I've been chasing that down on my truck. While I don't believe in parts-throwing, my truck is ultra-low miles, and suffers a little from inactivity. The bearings in the alternator were squealing, so I replaced that; I went ahead and got a new idler pulley and a tensioner pulley, and replaced them. The squeak still comes and goes, so I will put a new belt on it. I didn't already because the current belt looks real good. But, that's where the squeak is coming from.

 

I recently replaced the tensioner. It was making some horrendous noises at about 90k miles.

Take the tension off of the belt, then move the tensioner pulley and idler pullies with your hand. If you encounter anything but smoothness you should replace them.

You didn't say how many miles were on it, but changing the serpentine belt would not be a bad idea either.

 

Thanks everyone the truck. Has 147000 miles. Nrw belt. All bearings move freely with belt off. There seems to some drag in compressor bearing but the bearing clutch on the compressor goes in and out works good, I just noticed there was some drag on the the compressor pulley andtthatocould be norma? ?

 

I have been chasing this same mysterious noise on my '06, it all started when my radiator started separating and thought it was my water pump so I changed both but still squealing, so I changed the water pump again. still squealing, changed the tensioner assembly, then the alternator sounded like it had rocks in it so got a new one, still no luck. then I changed all the idlers and just for fun the damn water pump again, hell I can change a water pump in about 38 minutes now! But still no luck!!! The power steering and air pump work fine and feel good by hand and don't change when using them, so I have searched all over and have not found the source or a solution, and thought I have heard everything, including the Torque converter could be the problem!!


I pretty much gave up a keep waiting for whatever it is to give up the ghost and quit working!!


First time I have heard about the belt being the problem, mine has been on there for awhile, I wonder??.... might put a new one on tomorrow just to find out

 

Change belt can't go wrong

 

This may need to end up in the Tech folder, but this thread seemed like a good place to start.
- Background: early '99 250, 198K miles.
- No heat in cab: this site has been very helpful!
- Thinking my water pump was bad, I bought a new one with integrated filter from Dieselsite. Outstanding service.
- While we had the belt off, gave the idler pulleys a little spin. Both smooth pulleys sounded dry. Plus I recall a slight belt whine at idle. So off to the 'puter to look up new pulleys.
- While we were searching, I noticed the pulley bearings are just plain sealed ball bearings. I have a bunch of spare bearings from another project: I buy them from Ball Bearings | Whole Sale Prices | VXB Bearings Online, and it's as cheap to buy ten as it is to buy two!
- Took the pulleys home, and I've got two brand-new bearings that are drop-in replacements! Better still, both pulleys use the same size bearing.
- The bearings are 17mm x 40mm x 12mm (ID, OD, thickness). This is a standard size known as '6203'. The ones you want are 6203-2RS, they are sealed bearings and look identical to stock. They are maybe $5/ea, less in quantity.
- Press out the old bearings, press in the new bearings. Reinstall pulleys, enjoy silent running.

Since I'm a total nerd, I bead-blasted the pulleys after I pressed the bearings out. Then painted them with bright red engine paint. Baked in the toaster oven at 350 for about fifteen minutes (to set the paint). Pressed the new bearings in, reinstalled pulleys, done. Saved some money, and got rid of some more excess hardware piling up in the workshop.

Smooth Idler bearings: 6203-2RS, Ball Bearings | Whole Sale Prices | VXB Bearings Online

 

Most all tensioners have a mark on them that indicates if the tenioner is good or bad...check the front of it...might need to use a mirror.....to see if the indicator is between the raised lines/marks...you might go by a parts house and ask them to pull the tensioner and so you can see the indicator....maybe they can help you determine it belt or tensioner...

but my bet is the tensioner...most belts will slip if not tight enough with the drag caused by power steering pump and alternator...also the AC too