Head Bolt/Stud Tech thread...
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
Exactly. At $4-500 a set, they are kind of expensive.
I have one set on my main truck, and they work just fine(found a rare set "used" for cheap)/
Justin got 450 HP without lifting the heads, so the studs can hold it without issue(on a 7.3 anyway).
But on my other motors, or for future builds, it would be nice to find something that would work "as well as" the ARP studs for <$150 in materials.
Sure, the machine work would cost, but my plan is to figure out cheap home tools for DIYing it, so as *not* to require a machine shop.
I have one set on my main truck, and they work just fine(found a rare set "used" for cheap)/
Justin got 450 HP without lifting the heads, so the studs can hold it without issue(on a 7.3 anyway).
But on my other motors, or for future builds, it would be nice to find something that would work "as well as" the ARP studs for <$150 in materials.
Sure, the machine work would cost, but my plan is to figure out cheap home tools for DIYing it, so as *not* to require a machine shop.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
And to digress, if the crack in the block is on the outside, and involves the water jacket only it may be possible to repair with soft solder. I have seen this work up to quarter inch gaps.
Last edited by southern-old-bold; Sep 24, 2016 at 01:01 AM. Reason: More info..
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
I do know that even standard socket head cap screws that big and long are special order, even here in the USA
If it turns out to be savable otherwise, it would be fun to get running again just for the cool factor.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
Likes: 30
From: Maple Valley, WA
Just stumbled upon this. Thanks for finally giving is real data on putting larger threads into a 6.9 block. It really is interesting to see all of the old ways of thinking collapse with all of this new data.
In your calculations, it appears you are using the bolts minor diameter to determine clamping load. If this is the case, and if you are using the same P=T/KD calculation I am, a smaller bolt at the same torque will provide more clamping load (P). I guess I never actually sat down and thought that one through. Its interesting to see that we can get a 1/2-13 head bolt into a 6.9 block. Although the same calculation shows that with a larger stud, a higher torque rating will be required on a 1/2" stud to overcome the larger diameter than the 7/16" stud?
So the question I'm wondering, is if you can't drill/tap a 6.9 block all the way for a 7.3 stud, can they still be used as long as its tapped to the correct length? Wonder how much a set of 9/16" studs would run. I suppose the heads would need to be machined to accept the difference?
In your calculations, it appears you are using the bolts minor diameter to determine clamping load. If this is the case, and if you are using the same P=T/KD calculation I am, a smaller bolt at the same torque will provide more clamping load (P). I guess I never actually sat down and thought that one through. Its interesting to see that we can get a 1/2-13 head bolt into a 6.9 block. Although the same calculation shows that with a larger stud, a higher torque rating will be required on a 1/2" stud to overcome the larger diameter than the 7/16" stud?
So the question I'm wondering, is if you can't drill/tap a 6.9 block all the way for a 7.3 stud, can they still be used as long as its tapped to the correct length? Wonder how much a set of 9/16" studs would run. I suppose the heads would need to be machined to accept the difference?
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
Likes: 30
From: Maple Valley, WA
Just to update and offer a warning in this thread because it is info rich....
I just got the heads back on my Bronco engine tonight and I originally had a goal to take the ARP2000 studs to 165ft/lbs for that little extra bit of load (I had them at 160 for the last run with the prototype gaskets)... I ended up pulling the threads out of one hole on the block at the last step (165ft/lbs). Luckily enough, I installed a helicoil, and when I went to torque everything up again, it held 4 passes at 150.
Bottom line, dont take 1/2" fasteners above 150ft/lbs, its not worth the extra gain youll get out of it. 150 is definitely the sweet spot.
I just got the heads back on my Bronco engine tonight and I originally had a goal to take the ARP2000 studs to 165ft/lbs for that little extra bit of load (I had them at 160 for the last run with the prototype gaskets)... I ended up pulling the threads out of one hole on the block at the last step (165ft/lbs). Luckily enough, I installed a helicoil, and when I went to torque everything up again, it held 4 passes at 150.
Bottom line, dont take 1/2" fasteners above 150ft/lbs, its not worth the extra gain youll get out of it. 150 is definitely the sweet spot.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 435
Likes: 6
From: Kitimat British columbia
[QUOTE=Macrobb;16596509]Exactly. At $4-500 a set, they are kind of expensive.
I have one set on my main truck, and they work just fine(found a rare set "used" for cheap)/
Justin got 450 HP without lifting the heads, so the studs can hold it without issue(on a 7.3 anyway).
But on my other motors, or for future builds, it would be nice to find something that would work "as well as" the ARP studs for
I have one set on my main truck, and they work just fine(found a rare set "used" for cheap)/
Justin got 450 HP without lifting the heads, so the studs can hold it without issue(on a 7.3 anyway).
But on my other motors, or for future builds, it would be nice to find something that would work "as well as" the ARP studs for
New User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Head gasket change
Morning gentlemen.
im going to replace the head gaskets in the next few days and just want to confirm a few questions before I start.
In the future I plan on putting a turbo on,
1) can I use arp bolts without a turbo on truck?
2) should I put the arp bolts on now or wait till I get turbo
3) is USED from eBay arp bolts a good idea?
4) I was recommended to use a stock head gasket, does everybody agree?
im going to replace the head gaskets in the next few days and just want to confirm a few questions before I start.
In the future I plan on putting a turbo on,
1) can I use arp bolts without a turbo on truck?
2) should I put the arp bolts on now or wait till I get turbo
3) is USED from eBay arp bolts a good idea?
4) I was recommended to use a stock head gasket, does everybody agree?
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 34
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1) Yes
2) I wouldn't want to take the heads back off to put studs in if I didn't have to.
3) I wouldn't buy used head studs, but I've read of others having no issues with it.
4) The stock gasket should be fine for most people, unless you're planning on a really high HP build - in which case, I'm not sure if the new MLS gaskets are available through R&D or not yet.
2) I wouldn't want to take the heads back off to put studs in if I didn't have to.
3) I wouldn't buy used head studs, but I've read of others having no issues with it.
4) The stock gasket should be fine for most people, unless you're planning on a really high HP build - in which case, I'm not sure if the new MLS gaskets are available through R&D or not yet.
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