Thanks man, we all do this for self satisfaction but it's always nice to have people check out your work. I just got home and ate supper, so fixing to head out to the shop to finish the oil pan pattern so I can cut it out and brake it. Hey GFW1985, I noticed you have a Bronco half cab with the 200 I6, how well does the little six move that thing. Also I was looking at a 252H Comp for mine. How do you like the 256 cam? Is the idle noticeable at all? Just curious since most inline are in light weight cars and not in trucks.

Hopefully I'll have some pics of the pan this weekend, then I got to get the serpentine drive wrapped up.

 

Couldn't be more pleased with my engine. The cam is mild with steady idle with good vacuum., good to 4800rpm. Built it for the torque curve, not horsepower. Title weight is 3850 lbs, aerodynamics of a brick, and it will run freeway speeds no problem. My only regret is not putting in a 5 speed. It would handle it easily and drop my cruising rpm's. You are gaining a 25% increase in power with a stock 250ci over a stock 200ci to start with. Get it running correctly and you should have a perky little driver.

 

Since you swapped to the S belt system with the slick (not ribbed) water pump pulley that will turn your water pump in the opposite direction than stock so it won't cool. You have that problems with 302's sometimes. They make reverse and standard rotation water pumps for the small block v8's. I think they only have standard rotation water pumps for the 250 six.

 

Nah, it's a ribbed pulley. I just had the belt routed differently checking something else when I took the picture. I thought about that after I posted the picture, figured someone would catch it and say that won't work. I have to machine some stand offs and add some bracing and gussets. Then I have to try to figure out the idler and tensioner pulley again. Had it figured out then life happened, got pulled off the project for a month and a half and forgot how I was going to do it. It's basically routed the same as the 3.0 for the reason you pointed out that there is not a reverse rotating pump.

I take it Ford never put a S drive as you call it, (which is what I'll refer to it as from here out) on a 200/250 inline six. I even googled the Australian versions thinking that since they are still used over there, there might be a reverse style pump I could buy. Couldn't find any info so decided to figure a way to make the stock, easily attainable pump work.

Should have the pan and pickup tube finished up this weekend and I'll be adding pics.

Hey GFW1985, thanks for the info about your ride. Hopefully this motor will put the same power out as the old 4.0L V6. I'm going to check the cam that's in the engine now because unless Ford used orange valve springs, it might already have a cam in it. If not, it's getting the 252H when the time comes. I ran the cam in a desktop dyno program and showed to put out around 150 HP@3,500 and 295 ft. lbs.@2,600. Can't remember the stock numbers but remember thinking the gain justifies buying the cam. Always like hearing real world opinions though.

Wonder how many I6 powered Rangers there are? I know alot of forums talk about doing it but never read of anyone actually going through with it. I'm sure it's been done, but just not really documented you know.

 

Finally getting around to getting the oil pan done. Laid everything out on card stock, poster board, cereal box, whatever people call it, and mocked up. Then traced and cut out the pattern on 16 ga. sheet. Just got back from braking it and tacking together.

I know, it's to long but my sheet metal skills are non existent at this point so I cut it long to overlap and I'll use a die grinder and cut off wheel to trim and fit before finally welding it up. Still need to drill and install the drain bung and bolt but this will kinda of give you an idea of the final pan.

 

it looks good to me. are you planning on adding any baffles or trap doors?

 

Nah, I was thinking of making it larger in capacity with a kickout but just went with a stock style pan and moved the sump to the rear. Still got to redo the pickup but making progress none the less.

Thanks for following the project and commenting. That goes to everyone that has commented and shared their opinion along the way.

 

Any reason why you're not going to baffle it?

 

..and don't forget the drain plug.
I've learned not to place it on the bottom - rather place it at the bottom of one of the sides, where it will be less likely to get damaged. I usually just use a 1/4" pipe plug bung. I suggest you bolt it to a block to weld it to minimize the chances of warping. I made a block fixture to do this:

 

I figured since this thing will be driven like a semi and be hooked to a trailer 98% of the time, wasn't really no reason to baffle or try and control oil. It does have a much deeper sump now than compared to stock so hopefully with the extra capacity and deeper sump, the pick up will always be submerged in oil. That's my theory but who knows.

I was keeping that in mind French Town Flyer, I was going to put the pan on the engine and pull it down with the bolts before welding it up, wouldn't take long to draw it up like a prune if ya didn't. Still need a bung but it's getting there. Next project is the S drive.

 

I looked at the 79 and 80 model mustangs with the 200 six to see if they had a S belt style system on them but they didn't. I didn't realize they used them down under. I will have to check it out.

I ran a 200 in my 67 Mustang for several years backed by a 3.03 Ran tag with the 2.99 first gear. I started with 3.25 rear gear and then when I swapped out the rearend to a 8" I went with 3.00 as that was the best I could find. My other option would be 2.80 or 2.79. That combo never let me down. I went with a v8 later on and it kept the same trans, the engine with to a friends 65 falcon with a blown engine.

The 50 extra inches of displacement should work out very well with the combo you are working on. Mine always ran hard low to mid. It just didn't have a lot of top end in the Stang.

 

this is hands down one of my favorite threads on here. kudos to you and your project. its good to know there are fellas out there still willing to brave the waters and step out of the "norm" when it comes to swaps and tailoring your DD to your needs.
might be minute or two away, but if you run into heat sink issues with your carb, maybe consider a phonelic spacer, perhaps in conjunction with a sheet metal shield also. no being critical...your fab skills are obviously miles ahead of mine, just a thought. keep plugging away man, we're looking forward to you getting it all buttoned up.

 

TheDudeAbides, thanks for the support and interest in the project. I think GFW1985 mentioned this once before, that was before I got the headers finished. That and the fact the plenum stick over the 3&4 tubes we both were thinking about it but since then, I had a chance to look at the header from front and back. Still has a bit of an air gap but considering how hot the exhaust gets on a tow rig, it could become a real stinker of a problem. Definitely getting it Ceramic Coated as soon as I get the jetting and timing nailed down, but still reserve the right to make and install an aluminum heat shield if needed.

Yeah, I'm started seeing that this project isn't for the faint of heart. Most would probably side step the trouble and keep it V-belt but considering the old 3.0 had a new alternator and a/c, I took to finding a way to make it work. A 4.9L I6 dampener will work but needs about 3/8" machined off the back to make it work, then just fabbing up the brackets which really isn't complicated just time consuming.

Be pretty cool to own one of the few small Ford I6's with S drive system, especially in a Ranger