When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yesterday when I was changing the thermostat, flushed the coolant and replaced air charge temperature sensor as simple job and when I was all done and went to start it up and wont start but does crank and wasn't getting any fuel pressure from the rail but don't have the fuel gauge pressure to test it and the relays were working, the resistance is at 0 and wire is getting 12v. I'm lost here and isn't sure what to do next. The fuel pump was replaced a year ago and new fuel filter as well. Thank you for your time.
May we assume the truck was running before you made the repairs? Have you pulled Codes? If it was running prior to the repairs, check that nothing has been disconnected or disturbed. If you haven't pulled Codes, you can get KOEO Codes at least and find out if anything had been wrong the last time the truck was run.
May we assume the truck was running before you made the repairs? Have you pulled Codes? If it was running prior to the repairs, check that nothing has been disconnected or disturbed. If you haven't pulled Codes, you can get KOEO Codes at least and find out if anything had been wrong the last time the truck was run.
Yes, It comes on for a couple seconds to let you know it isn't burned out.
Well for starters, there is no Code 102. The lowest EEC-IV Code is 111. (or 11 if your ECM spits out two-digit Codes).
Code 113: Indicates that the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) (Sometimes referred to the the ACT (Air Charge Temperature) sensor was either pegged above the upper voltage limit or the computer was getting no response from it at all. (i.e. it was disconnected).
Code 171: Indicates that the HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor was not switching or was sending information causing the entire EEC-IV system to reach its adaptive limit and the computer could still not maintain fuel/air and spark control. A disconnected or damaged O2 sensor will cause this. So will a non-functioning Thermactor air injection pump (failed smog pump). It doesn't have to be completely failed either, it may be as simple as a disconnected vacuum line or hose in the Thermactor plumbing. Frequently when replacing spark plugs, ACT sensor, PCV valve, or other components near the passenger side of rear of the engine, the vacuum lines and hoses running to the Thermactor Air Diverter Valve will dislodge causing no end of headaches. Again the diverter valve is located behind the passenger side cylinder head in all V8-equipped trucks.
Yes, It comes on for a couple seconds to let you know it isn't burned out.
Well for starters, there is no Code 102. The lowest EEC-IV Code is 111. (or 11 if your ECM spits out two-digit Codes).
Code 113: Indicates that the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) (Sometimes referred to the the ACT (Air Charge Temperature) sensor was either pegged above the upper voltage limit or the computer was getting no response from it at all. (i.e. it was disconnected).
Code 171: Indicates that the HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor was not switching or was sending information causing the entire EEC-IV system to reach its adaptive limit and the computer could still not maintain fuel/air and spark control. A disconnected or damaged O2 sensor will cause this. So will a non-functioning Thermactor air injection pump (failed smog pump). It doesn't have to be completely failed either, it may be as simple as a disconnected vacuum line or hose in the Thermactor plumbing. Frequently when replacing spark plugs, ACT sensor, PCV valve, or other components near the passenger side of rear of the engine, the vacuum lines and hoses running to the Thermactor Air Diverter Valve will dislodge causing no end of headaches. Again the diverter valve is located behind the passenger side cylinder head in all V8-equipped trucks.
Ok after some of testing. I'm getting code of 542. I'm getting 35-40 psi from fuel pressure and tested the fuel pump connector and are at 10-12v and truck isn't starting. What's else I have to do?
If it was mine I would shoot a little starting fluid into the TB while cranking to see if it fires up. That will tell you if your problem is fuel or spark.
No luck, now I'm getting code of 542 and 543. I tracked down the wiring that wasn't grounded on pin #6 and isn't sure where the wire lead to, all I see the pcm, if it is in there and would I have to remove the pcm to find the ground?
I am confused, if the inertia switch was inop, then your problem would be no fuel, but you said it would not start on starting fluid. That does not add up to me.
I am confused, if the inertia switch was inop, then your problem would be no fuel, but you said it would not start on starting fluid. That does not add up to me.
I'm getting fuel good, forgot to mention it and all I need is to replace the connector and switch and see from there.
Do anybody know where I can buy fuel filler hose (gas abg 1a10) for my fuel tank, I just need the outside hose and seem it's impossible to find expect at the dealer which is way expensive to purchase. I tried every part shop and is it good idea to pull one from a junkyard not knowing if the hose will last.