Did a search on these topics, but didnt see answer. Most posts very old anyway.
Have a 93 Bronco, familiar with both topics for it. Wonder if same applies for this 93 EL Aero 4.0. I think the Aero has a PSOM like the Bronco, is there a procedure for resetting the Constant number the same as the 150/Bronco process?
Also the E4OD had a big problem early with the clutch plate in the converter slipping and causing a bigtime overheat of the tranny oil. Cure was to replace with converter with LUK mutiple clutches, which I did. Does the A4LD have the same problem which would leed to same type of overheating of the tranny oil. This problem might cause someone to think it was a radiator or a general tranny failure.
A baumann shift kit for the E4OD cured most all my sloppy shift problems on it, even the mild setup.
Now if I can just get my fat little fingers to the rear plug-------

 

The Speedo/Cluster is the same between the 93 Bronco and Aero, the only difference is that all Aeros came without tach.

As for rebuilding the A4LD, there are kits and write ups on how to do it here. I am not sure what the different nuances are between the A4LD and the E4OD, but if you already have rebuilt a tranny, there is not much difference.

 

My 93 Bronco had the classic tq conv failure for the early years. The clutch material was not strong enough to hold with some miles on it and towing even a light load. On a trip back home with a small u-haul tlr, the thing overheated the oil in the converter and the pressure buildup caused the fluid to be blown out past shaft seal. After the thing cooled down (AAA got me home) for a few days I put tranny fluid back in it and drove it for a while, the seal actually re-set on cooling and it held just fine, no leaks even! I replaced the converter with one from an e350 ambulance and while I was at it, replaced the rear main seal (351). The new conv had multiple/Luk clutches and still is good today. Other than too much stall speed, it has worked great.
What I would like to know is if the A4LD has experienced the same overheating problems from a slipping converter. I have not seen anything about that, will search more--. Just like the E4OD, that problem might cause the unsuspecting to think it was actually a tranny failure or a radiator partially stopped up. Would be easier on the 2WD Aerostar because of no Xfer case to complicate things. At the same time also put in a shift kit in the A4LD. I have rebuilt C6/FMX/C4/AOD and a shift kit in the E4OD. I am not a pro, but it is not really rocket science, just be careful and pay attention.
Are there any stories about the A4LD conv failing?

 

Not a lot of cases of the torque converter failing, but many cases of the pump seal failing under heavy load. Otherwise, the stock ATF coolers are insufficient, allowing overheating of the fluid, and related problems. Ford's owner's manual says to not use overdrive when towing anything, or even with a heavily loaded vehicle, and that usually reduces a lot of strain on the transmission and torque converter.

 

the A4LD that is in the 4.0L Aeros is a heavier duty unit with bushings replaced with Torrington bearings and a HD dual disc lockup in the TC.
unless it's been towing high wind resistance loads all it's life, they last.

the problems in the Aero auto trannies are low quality ATF, small cooler, blocked air flow and the high wear rate of the valve bores in the valve body unit.

 

This really tweeks my curiosity with the pump seals failing . I know about locking out OD when towing, but the TQ Conv cannot be locked out, (you can cut one of the wiring harness wires and route it to a switch on the dash, TCC--Torque converter clutch control leed to the solenoid pack) it locks up automatically and probably a lot like the E4OD's, at a given speed regardless of where the foot is on the pedal. My E4OD locks ~45mph, really a pia when merging the onramp with a 8000 # boat. Drops you right out of a good power band---. The OEM E4OD (from what I can read on this site, different forum) Had a single plate clutch for the lockup. It was to be replaced with a multiclutch or LUK clutches. The fluid overheated because of a slipping converter clutch, not from inadequate coolers. You can say that a bigger cooler would have helped, but the size required to cool would be prohibitive as it became worse. In my case, the seal blew out because the fluid in the converter became almost superheated, created high pressure which blew out the seal.
I am beginning to become very suspicious about some of the overheating issues with the aerostars. I have started doing the stovetop water pan heat test for all thermostats, even NEW ones-----I have been bitten by that monster on new ones also. First thing out of the package is to test the new thermostat. I removed the OEM thermostat and it did not even budge to open, even up to 212 deg. The waterpump impellers were unmarked and no leak from the weep hole, so that tells me that the water pump cant be bad.
What I really would like to hear is if the A4LD was mfg with the same type of single clutch similar to the original E4OD. If it is the same problem, then a simple Converter replacement (simple---yea right ) would help much more than additional tranny coolers. I am beginning to think that a lot of "professionals" are spinning yarns because they really dont want to work on these PIA's.
Sorry for a long post, but I went through a lot of work to determine the real problem with the E4OD blowing out oil------I mean like a river---. Would like to be sure of the problem before trying to cure it on this A4LD.

 

On my van, I can usually tell when the torque converter locks up, as the engine rpm drops significantly. It unlocks if I either lift off the gas, or put my foot into it. On the lift off, the unlock is a little slow, and the driveline clunks a little. So it's pretty easy to tell if the torque converter is locked or not. I am lucky that mine has not slipped. Of course, I've never really loaded it very heavily before.

Some guys here have installed temp sensors in their transmissions to see how hot they got, with stock or aftermarket coolers.

I would be interested to know if I can expect better mileage if I got a TC with a different stall speed.

 

I didnt notice any difference in mpg on my Bronco. But then, who really closely checks these vehicles. I would think that the slippin with the extra stall would hurt around town. At the time I got the e350 converter, the counterman didnt seem to really care what I put in it except he understood I wanted a better TQC than oem. With the lower 1st gear of the E4** ~2.80 it was not needed. Even with a heavy load, L range would have been the cure, that is until you twist the axles------. What I would like to do on the E4-- is clip the TCC wires and add a battery source to pull up the solenoid in the tranny to lock the converter up earlier. Except for idling at a light, lock that sucker up early! Thats on my bucket list for "later". Hopefully before I have to suck pea soup through a straw.
I dont know if the TQ slippage is a problem in lighter vehicles that dont tow much. The A4LD may never have had that problem like some others. Really wish I could hear from a tranny expert
In the process of plugs/wires/thermostat/waterpump/heater hoses/etc now that I have cleared most of that front "mess" off the 4.0, I notice that the P side upper A arm joints are deteriorated and have ripped/settled. Sure am going to attempt to replace------if I have enough blood left-----

 

You might want to post some questions on the transmission forum

Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

There are lots of guys there with much more knowledge about transmissions, especially the E4OD.

Replacing the upper A arm bushing s is not too difficult, I've done it before. Some pics here:

https://plus.google.com/photos/11555...033?banner=pwa

The trickiest part may be to put things back in a way so that the alignment is close enough that your alignment man can still bring it into spec using shims, and not have to loosen those 3 giant bolts.

 

Here's more help with the upper control arm bushings (includes pictures)
1995 Aerostar. Upper control arm replacement

 

TX for the links ! Really looks do-able and not too difficult considering the rest of the effort these things take.
From that info, I can go ahead and complete the hoses/wp/thermo etc and get this thing running. Still have a bit of an unknown about the head gaskets. Dealer told Mother-in-law (96 yr old) it need head gaskets. Thats how I would up with it 93-66K miles. No evidence at all of coolant on floor/milkey oil/tailpipe smoke or residue at pipe/loss of coolant. Suspect dealer trying to con old lady and daughter to sell a new vehicle.
Dont want to get crazy on repairs until I verify it isnt head gasket.
Once you tear into front, crazy not to do all you can.

 

4.0L is notorious for blowing head gaskets. It is normally an external leaks around the #5/2 cylinders. I would try looking for underneath up at the head/block juntions there for tell tale signs. Usually they are small leaks that will not leave drips on the ground.

 

Tx 93nighthawk although I didnt really want to hear about no visible coolant on the floor. I suppose the coolant could leak while running and drip onto the hot manifold and would not make it to the floor. After all the work in this thing, having a head gasket leak would about finish me off. This thing is in such good condition that I would have to think long and hard about repairing it. We got it for 100 bux from mother-in-law (97 yrs) so even ~2000 bux on repair would be worth it. It would go to the back of the line for some other Monday-----