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Well the day before yesterday my truck started running like crap. It's like I've lost a cylinder or something. It's a 5.0 with mass air. I've got no check engine lights on. I hooked it up to my code reader and all it gives me is 000 doing a KOEO and the same thing when I do a KOER. But when I did the KOER it didn't do anything. When I ve done it in the past it has revved the motor while its doing its checks. This time nothing.
Do you think it's the ECU or something with the motor?
121 closed throttle voltage higher or lower than expected
512 keep alive memory (KAM) test failure
111 system pass
KOER
121
172 hego (H02S) sensor fault/lean
536 brake on/off circuit not activated during KOER
538 insufficient rpm change during KOER dynamic response test
632 overdrive trans cancel switch / no action during self engine run test.
KAM Code might be from disconnecting the battery, or a possible electrical problem.
TPS code suggests that the throttle position isn't returning fully to closed, or you may have bumped the pedal a bit while checking the codes.
The O2 sensor code says you're lean. This can be from a dirty/bad MAF sensor, low fuel pressure, or a bad O2 sensor. I'd start by checking the fuel pressure.
The three other codes are because you didn't push the brake, blip the throttle and cycle the OD switch during the test.
throttle position sensor is a common wear item. Can cause all kinds of problems. mine would run fine until it warmed up. then wouldnt shift. thought it was transmission. Replaced throtte position sensor fixed it. I was getting throttle stuck wide open error. hope that helps.
The only input I have for you is to fix everything in the KOEO tests before trying to fix anything that shows up in the KOER tests. My manual that came with my code reader was very clear about that. Your code 121 sounds like a TPS sensor.
Check your wiring first to ensure you have clean and solid connections as the codes don't necessarily indicate a problem with a part. They are simply indicating the expected voltage for the test was not what it was supposed to be.
I've got low voltage reading on my TPS wiring. How do I tell if it's the connection or further down the wiring? do they sell pig tails for the female end?
OK here's what I got with the key on but not running.
there's 3 pins in the connector. 1 pin gave me 4.98v and the other 2 were 0. do I need to do the check again with the motor running?
Like Lead Head said, the voltage should be low if you are not moving the throttle body (meaning it's closed). The way the TPS works is to increase voltage output as the throttle body is opened. If you are getting 4.98v and the throttle body is closed, I'd say replace it. Get one from your local parts store, these can be made cheaply and you will get what you pay for so don't get it off a place like eBay (I speak from experience).
When you connect the new one you should be getting a voltage of 1.0 (could be lower like 0.8 or higher like 1.1) and when you move your throttle body to open it, the voltage should increase.
Like Lead Head said, the voltage should be low if you are not moving the throttle body (meaning it's closed). The way the TPS works is to increase voltage output as the throttle body is opened. If you are getting 4.98v and the throttle body is closed, I'd say replace it. Get one from your local parts store, these can be made cheaply and you will get what you pay for so don't get it off a place like eBay (I speak from experience).
When you connect the new one you should be getting a voltage of 1.0 (could be lower like 0.8 or higher like 1.1) and when you move your throttle body to open it, the voltage should increase.
The 4.98v come from the female side of the connector once ive disconnected the TPS. I'm a novice at best when it comes to any electronics on a truck.
The 4.98v come from the female side of the connector once ive disconnected the TPS. I'm a novice at best when it comes to any electronics on a truck.
am I testing it the correct way?
To test the TPS you need to have the connector from the wiring harness connected to the TPS itself. You'll either need to remove the throttle body to get access to the TPS or back probe the wires. You'll find one wire that is always ~5v, that is VREF. As long as it has ~5v, ignore it. The other two wires will be what you need: one is ground and one is output of the TPS to the computer. When you measure these two you will want to see something around 1v (or less) when the throttle body is closed (if you have the TPS removed from the throttle body, this would be in it's normal, relaxed state). If you were to open the throttle body the voltage should go up. It shouldn't go above 4.5v or so. If you see it smoothly increase as you slowly open the throttle body, that is a well operating TPS.
Basically the TPS sends a voltage back to the PCM to let the PCM know how far open (or closed) the throttle body is.