I've never heard of DOM16 untill the owner of our shop told me about it. POR15 is exclisively for rust if there is bare metal it needs to be prepped. DOM16 is for rust and bare metal with no prep needed. Each one has it's own use. It sounds like DOM is the way to go for any type of rust repair when good bare metal is next to it.

 

Subscribing.

 

I'm researching the dom 16 now and it appears it's about half price of the por15.

 

That makes it simple LoL, seems por needs a top coat if exposed to sunlight too.
Thanks

 

More pics. this time I`m doing the running boards. I`ve read of some people that have had the metal reinforcement under the plastic step pads rotting out. so I figured since the boards are off now is the time to do those too. I completely disassembled them. lots of nuts and bolts!

These are a couple brackets, there are 5 per side.


here is the step bar under the plastic cover (the one that has the lights in it).


Here are the painted parts waiting to dry so I can install them. I still need to do the other running board.



These parts had nothing more than minor surface rust/pitting. so I chipped away all the major stuff and scuffed them for the DOM16. I may give them a coat of black paint just to make them look good.

Again, I don`t know why, but for some reason the drivers side (rockers and running boards) have more rust than the pass side.

Next thing up is doing the rear frame before I reinstall install my airbags. and then clean up the hitch and fuel tank enclosure and do those too!

And then later in the spring I`ll do the front frame section.

 

Those look great, the boards take a beating from road salt....and better to protect them now before they end up like this one.

 

Looking good! I am interested to hear how that stuff holds up!

 

Your frame still looks nice and clean, it could be worse just look at mine.

Driver side or whats left of it






Passenger side

 

That`s terrible! mine may have looked like that in 10 years if I didn`t get on it now! what did you do about the rust issues. I know the running boards are easily replaced, but the body rust......... OOOOOHHHHHHH!!!!

 

1. The driver's side is toward the middle of the road a higher concentration of chemicals are applied to the middle of the road to allow the crowning effect to carry the chemical(s) to the curb side. On a two way street the road is plowed in both directions and the chemical(s) overlap.

2. The driver's side gets a constant chemical bath from vehicles passing in both directions sending more chemical(s) toward the driver's side.

The center of a roadway melts first, more chemicals more traffic. The curbside is usually the last to melt (unless it is near a drain/sewer).

Most vehicles from the Rust Belt that I have seen generally have more body cancer on the driver's side than the passenger side.

 

Sold the truck It was easier than dealing with the major rust. The rockers were also gone, and around the window trim there was rust bubbling there and getting bad. The back of the rockers where the running boards bolted too was not in the best of shape, the passenger side rear mount was rusted through with the bolts.


After 306,000 miles and 13 of being a Northern IL truck really took its toll on it.

 

Was just going to start a thread when I ran across this one. I found rust in the EXACT same place as the OP's. Both sides and then the bottom of the rear LH door. I really can't believe how quickly it happened. I happened to notice it this fall when washing the truck, it seemed like it happened over night.
Not being a body guy at all I was pretty bummed out. The door can be replaced but fixing the holes in the rocker panel /qtr panel joint looked really bad. Thanks for posting up what you have done. At least I know it can be fixed, now I'll just have to find a decent shop in my area that will do it.

 

This might sound like a strange question, but how are you painting the parts? Are you mixing up the paint and spraying in a clean room or are you using color matched shaker cans of paint in your garage?

 

I work in a body shop. They sprayed the panel for me. The rest is all brushed (POR15/DOM16)and or sprayed epoxy coating, undercoating and trim paint.

You could use the premixed auto aerosol paint, but it is not as durable, unless you go high end aerosols.

 

I have a few spots on the roof to do, I'm leaning towards the shaker cans. I dont have a shop and Monster doesnt fit in the garage. What brand is considered "HIGH end"?

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