I just picked up an 89 f250 that wouldn't run. Truck is rusty, but not rotted out so I figured I'd try to get it running. First off, it had a new tune up and I got the front fuel pump working. Still nothing, even on either. So I checked spark and it was good. Pulled the plugs and they were not wet so I put a noid light on the injectors. These also tested good, so I went to check the timing and the distributor was froze. Long story short, I broke it off. Finally got it out and lined up tdc and poked it in. It started and died, started and died. After about 5 tries, I touched the ignition module and it was real hot, so I figure it may be starving for a ground. Where/what grounds the ignition module?

 

The ground for the Ignition module and Ignition is inside the distributor.

 

Ok, so there goes that theory... could it be from cranking to much? I did not realize these things got that hot

 

Was this a "new" dizzy replacing the one that snapped off? or a bone yard piece?

Should be kinda warm yea but nothing like say hot enough burn your hand, getting that hot and that quick yea might be the problem the module is bad.

 

There is a thermal compound/paste between the distributor and the TFI module. I'm assuming you physically broke the distributor, and transferred your TFI module to the new one.

If you didn't put new thermal paste on the module, it will get hot very fast.

 

X2

 

Yea reason for my new or used question, if "new" and used his module figured he did it but if used, installing it as is out of the other truck that might be a issue.

If I bought a new dizzy and it had a module on it already (do they even sell em like that?), if so I'd pull the module off and verify it had been properly applied before dropping it in.
Clean both surfaces apply my own thin coat of quality thermo paste, can't say I'd trust it to be done correctly right out of the box!

 

Yeah, I broke it off and used the one out of my other motor that I had. Only about a year old. It wasn't like burning hot, but it was pretty warm

 

Also, classic start-die usually means the idle control valve is stuck closed. Usually feathering the gas will keep it running.

 

You could also have a bad Ignition Coil to cause it to get hot.
Do you still have the resister between the ICM/I-Coil in the IDM wire going to the computer?

 

As far as I know. Where is that located?

 

I take it you are asking about the Ignition Suppression resister.
It is located on the LH (drivers side) side of the engine taped in the wiring harness.



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Been awhile since I reported back. Here is what I found.

I was getting fuel to the rail (40 psi) with no leakdown. I had injector pulse. I had great spark (ask me how I know ). I could get it to start on starting fluid, but not idle at all. So the last time it fired up, I kept spraying it with WOT and it would run by itself at high rev's. I figured it to be the injectors because the plugs would not be wet AT ALL after a minute or so of cranking. I had a set in my dads old motor that we put in not to long ago so I swapped them in.

The old fuel rail came off extremely hard even after a day soak in trans fluid and being moved around every few hours. I had to stand ON TOP of the engine, grasp on with both hands and lift WITH MY LEGS to get that sucker to budge. All but one injector was still in the block. I had to get a pair of channel locks and pry each injector out, leaving behind the orings and pintle..... those I got out with more trans fluid and a pick. Cleaned out all the holes, put new orings on the injectors, a small amount of vaseline and in they went. Buttoned up everything and proceded to crank. Nothing.... so I rotate the distributor about 20 degrees and tried again and the thing came alive.

Funny how clogged those things were to not let fuel get through. The guy I got it from said it ran fine and one day it died on him while driving. I don't see how that would have "ran fine" when I couldn't even get it to idle. But, in his "diagnosis" he changed all the plugs, wires,cap,rotor, new O2 sensor, and front fuel pump. I picked il the truck and plow for 900 and the motor and interior are in beautiful shape. The body is not rotted, but it is rusted as in the clear has been gone for some time and all the body panels are surface rusted in spots. I think it looks pretty cool