6.0 Starting Problem
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 101
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From: Fairfax, VA
6.0 Starting Problem
Ive had some problems with starting after the Truck has been sitting for a day or so where I have to let it crank over a couple times before the motor stays running with cutting off. But recently I was at the fuel pumps and cut my truck off only to have it leave me stranded and need a tow home. After a couple hours and getting home I tried to start my truck after it got off the roll off and of course it started.
So I had a chance today to try seeing what is wrong with my truck. I put new batteries in it since it sat for about a week without running in the cold and was due for new ones anyhow so there are no codes right now.
After stumbling and running fine I warmed it up then kept a steady 1200rpm to warm up the oil and see if I could duplicate the problem at the fuel pumps. I took some short videos of whats going on. Im thinking ICP sensor problems or a STC fitting leak. What do you all think?
then after warm I tried to restart and this is what happened.
Top left is ICP top middle ICP volts top right Battery Volts
Bottom left is IPR middle RPMs bottom right Oil temp F
So I had a chance today to try seeing what is wrong with my truck. I put new batteries in it since it sat for about a week without running in the cold and was due for new ones anyhow so there are no codes right now.
After stumbling and running fine I warmed it up then kept a steady 1200rpm to warm up the oil and see if I could duplicate the problem at the fuel pumps. I took some short videos of whats going on. Im thinking ICP sensor problems or a STC fitting leak. What do you all think?
then after warm I tried to restart and this is what happened.
Top left is ICP top middle ICP volts top right Battery Volts
Bottom left is IPR middle RPMs bottom right Oil temp F
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
Ive had some problems with starting after the Truck has been sitting for a day or so where I have to let it crank over a couple times before the motor stays running with cutting off. But recently I was at the fuel pumps and cut my truck off only to have it leave me stranded and need a tow home. After a couple hours and getting home I tried to start my truck after it got off the roll off and of course it started.
So I had a chance today to try seeing what is wrong with my truck. I put new batteries in it since it sat for about a week without running in the cold and was due for new ones anyhow so there are no codes right now.
After stumbling and running fine I warmed it up then kept a steady 1200rpm to warm up the oil and see if I could duplicate the problem at the fuel pumps. I took some short videos of whats going on. Im thinking ICP sensor problems or a STC fitting leak. What do you all think?
F250 running ICP dropping IPR rising - YouTube
then after warm I tried to restart and this is what happened.
F250 6.0 won't start after warm. - YouTube
Top left is ICP top middle ICP volts top right Battery Volts
Bottom left is IPR middle RPMs bottom right Oil temp F
So I had a chance today to try seeing what is wrong with my truck. I put new batteries in it since it sat for about a week without running in the cold and was due for new ones anyhow so there are no codes right now.
After stumbling and running fine I warmed it up then kept a steady 1200rpm to warm up the oil and see if I could duplicate the problem at the fuel pumps. I took some short videos of whats going on. Im thinking ICP sensor problems or a STC fitting leak. What do you all think?
F250 running ICP dropping IPR rising - YouTube
then after warm I tried to restart and this is what happened.
F250 6.0 won't start after warm. - YouTube
Top left is ICP top middle ICP volts top right Battery Volts
Bottom left is IPR middle RPMs bottom right Oil temp F
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 101
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From: Fairfax, VA
mustang_309 - so the 2003 6.0 dont have the bad fitting? I though all early 6.0 had problems with a snap to connect fitting? and that the new fitting wasn't introduced till later.
Bullitt390 - I assume you mean HPOP. What makes you say that thats the problem? not other components? Just curious because the HPOP is the highest cost fix.
When I started the truck and it ran first before warming up the ICP was in the 1100-1200 range at idle and it didn't start to gradually drop till the oil temp reached 150 degrees F. And then after I shut it off wouldn't restart because the ICP wouldn't go above the 500 needed to fire the injectors.
Bullitt390 - I assume you mean HPOP. What makes you say that thats the problem? not other components? Just curious because the HPOP is the highest cost fix.
When I started the truck and it ran first before warming up the ICP was in the 1100-1200 range at idle and it didn't start to gradually drop till the oil temp reached 150 degrees F. And then after I shut it off wouldn't restart because the ICP wouldn't go above the 500 needed to fire the injectors.
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Joined: Aug 2001
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The early style HPOP is prone to failure. Second likely is the HPOP discharge tube which works similar to the 05+ STC fitting, but nowhere near the failure rate.
It's good practice to replace both HPOP and discharge tube together.
Either way, you could air check the system to narrow down the culprit.
I recommend to air check from the passenger oil rail, others air check from the ICP on the back on the HPOP.
When cold the oil is "thicker" and builds pressure and seals better than hot and "thin" hence the starting and pressure issues.
A bad ICP has fluctuating PSI numbers and surging. The early style ICP sensor is a bad design as well.
Josh
It's good practice to replace both HPOP and discharge tube together.
Either way, you could air check the system to narrow down the culprit.
I recommend to air check from the passenger oil rail, others air check from the ICP on the back on the HPOP.
When cold the oil is "thicker" and builds pressure and seals better than hot and "thin" hence the starting and pressure issues.
A bad ICP has fluctuating PSI numbers and surging. The early style ICP sensor is a bad design as well.
Josh
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
mustang_309 - so the 2003 6.0 dont have the bad fitting? I though all early 6.0 had problems with a snap to connect fitting? and that the new fitting wasn't introduced till later.
Bullitt390 - I assume you mean HPOP. What makes you say that thats the problem? not other components? Just curious because the HPOP is the highest cost fix.
When I started the truck and it ran first before warming up the ICP was in the 1100-1200 range at idle and it didn't start to gradually drop till the oil temp reached 150 degrees F. And then after I shut it off wouldn't restart because the ICP wouldn't go above the 500 needed to fire the injectors.
Bullitt390 - I assume you mean HPOP. What makes you say that thats the problem? not other components? Just curious because the HPOP is the highest cost fix.
When I started the truck and it ran first before warming up the ICP was in the 1100-1200 range at idle and it didn't start to gradually drop till the oil temp reached 150 degrees F. And then after I shut it off wouldn't restart because the ICP wouldn't go above the 500 needed to fire the injectors.
So given the information you provided the ICPV's should be around .19 to .24 volts, less than .19 would indicate a problem with the ICP sensor and or the ICP wiring pigtail, which is why you need to replace the ICP sensor and if there is oil in the electrical connection replace the pigtail as well and there is a good chance the HPOP is failing as they are known to do on the 03' and 04' model years. An air test of the HPO system would confirm this if you hear air gurgling back through the oil filter housing during the air test.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Fairfax, VA
Thanks for the input. I know what both of you are saying now about the no stc fitting but the oil tube. If weather permitting tomorrow I'm gonna start taking it apart and see what I'm working with. If I do end up changing out the HPOP I see they go online for $400-$500 but haven't called the local dealer to see what they want for it but would I be better off with one of the aftermarket billet ones or should I just save my money and put in a stock re manufactured one?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
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From: South Weber, Utah
Thanks for the input. I know what both of you are saying now about the no stc fitting but the oil tube. If weather permitting tomorrow I'm gonna start taking it apart and see what I'm working with. If I do end up changing out the HPOP I see they go online for $400-$500 but haven't called the local dealer to see what they want for it but would I be better off with one of the aftermarket billet ones or should I just save my money and put in a stock re manufactured one?
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Fairfax, VA
Ok. Well I got to wrenching some today and removed most of the top of the motor. But stopped short of removing the Intake manifold and HPOP. I plan to get all the parts I think I need and then open up the top of the motor. I just want to get your opinions. After calling the local dealer and getting a Quote of $700 for a HPOP and $190 for the oil return tube I think Im gonna try my options online.
Going to go with the Billet HPOP from Diesel Site since its only $300 more and seems to give me more piece of mind.
I am also going to replace the oil return tube, IPR and ICP and pigtail if need be.
Going to order what gaskets I think I need to put everything back together. HPOP gasket and seals etc...
Right now I dont have a EGR delete and thought now could be the time to install. I looked on diesel site and saw these two items....
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-2007f...egrdelete.aspx
and
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...tegrscoop.aspx
Would I add BOTH of these to my truck and are these good options. Also anyone thing of anything else that would be simple to do since my motor we have easy access? Im no mechanic just a Fireman with determination and pretty handy that only likes to do things once and not have to replace down the road.
Going to go with the Billet HPOP from Diesel Site since its only $300 more and seems to give me more piece of mind.
I am also going to replace the oil return tube, IPR and ICP and pigtail if need be.
Going to order what gaskets I think I need to put everything back together. HPOP gasket and seals etc...
Right now I dont have a EGR delete and thought now could be the time to install. I looked on diesel site and saw these two items....
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-2007f...egrdelete.aspx
and
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...tegrscoop.aspx
Would I add BOTH of these to my truck and are these good options. Also anyone thing of anything else that would be simple to do since my motor we have easy access? Im no mechanic just a Fireman with determination and pretty handy that only likes to do things once and not have to replace down the road.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
Ok. Well I got to wrenching some today and removed most of the top of the motor. But stopped short of removing the Intake manifold and HPOP. I plan to get all the parts I think I need and then open up the top of the motor. I just want to get your opinions. After calling the local dealer and getting a Quote of $700 for a HPOP and $190 for the oil return tube I think Im gonna try my options online.
Going to go with the Billet HPOP from Diesel Site since its only $300 more and seems to give me more piece of mind.
I am also going to replace the oil return tube, IPR and ICP and pigtail if need be.
Going to order what gaskets I think I need to put everything back together. HPOP gasket and seals etc...
Right now I dont have a EGR delete and thought now could be the time to install. I looked on diesel site and saw these two items....
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-2007f...egrdelete.aspx
and
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...tegrscoop.aspx
Would I add BOTH of these to my truck and are these good options. Also anyone thing of anything else that would be simple to do since my motor we have easy access? Im no mechanic just a Fireman with determination and pretty handy that only likes to do things once and not have to replace down the road.
Going to go with the Billet HPOP from Diesel Site since its only $300 more and seems to give me more piece of mind.
I am also going to replace the oil return tube, IPR and ICP and pigtail if need be.
Going to order what gaskets I think I need to put everything back together. HPOP gasket and seals etc...
Right now I dont have a EGR delete and thought now could be the time to install. I looked on diesel site and saw these two items....
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-2007f...egrdelete.aspx
and
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...tegrscoop.aspx
Would I add BOTH of these to my truck and are these good options. Also anyone thing of anything else that would be simple to do since my motor we have easy access? Im no mechanic just a Fireman with determination and pretty handy that only likes to do things once and not have to replace down the road.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Before committing to the EGR delete, does your truck have to be emissions tested? If so it will not pass the tampering law with an EGR delete. And if you are able to do the EGR delete make sure you leave the valve in place and plugged in as it affects cooling fan and turbo operation.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 84
Do you know what your ect and eot temps were? You would have easy access to the oil cooler as well while it is all apart. Have you done the blue spring update for the fuel regulator? might not hurt to pop that in as well but that can be reached at any time. Take and disassemble the turbo and clean it up while its off. There are how to in the tech folder I believe.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Do you know what your ect and eot temps were? You would have easy access to the oil cooler as well while it is all apart. Have you done the blue spring update for the fuel regulator? might not hurt to pop that in as well but that can be reached at any time. Take and disassemble the turbo and clean it up while its off. There are how to in the tech folder I believe.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,061
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
here is some good info here
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...op-storey.html
Personaly I try to find the problem before ordering parts Guess I am just Cheap LOL or Really HATE Throwing parts at it
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...op-storey.html
Personaly I try to find the problem before ordering parts Guess I am just Cheap LOL or Really HATE Throwing parts at it