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While installing my trailer wiring, I noticed on the brake/turn signal socket discolored from heat. It was showing brown color on the socket.
I would like to change the standard bulbs for leds, on my e350, 2013.
Has anyone one completed this task, including front amber bulbs? What part numbers did you use, where did you purchase?
Also in the information it mentions you may have to upgrade your flasher to match the lower resistance of the led bulb.
Where is/are the flashers located, 1 or 2?
Yes, I have researched this subject on this forum.
Have found most of the answers but one.
Where is the flasher located? I have reached up under the dash as far as I can in different spots but have failed to locate the flasher. Is this 2013 e350 to new for this forum to have experiences with?
What other sources can I research that would locate the flasher?
I found my flasher hanging down by the interior fuse panel, I put an LED friendly one in when I replaced all my bulbs with LEDs, you practically have to stand on your head and fumble around under there to locate it, sometimes they are tied up high.
The new Ford vans don't have a turn signal relay that you can replace. They have a multi-function box that has integrated relays for the lighting. That's where the artificial blinker sound is coming from, same place as the seat belt reminder chime. Someone mentioned that there is a way to reprogram this box to eliminate the fast-blink mode when using LED bulbs, I haven't tried it. I switched all exterior bulbs over to LED and used resistors on the front and rear turn signal circuits to eliminate the fast-blink mode. I use Superbrightleds.com, here is the link for your van bulbs.
Expect to drop some decent coin for good, bright LED bulbs. About $25 per bulb for the turn signal/brake lights if you want the brightest light. The marker lights are a little less.
I replaced the side marker lights with leds on my 75 e150 and they are bright! I haven't bought any turn signal bulbs yet, but will I have the fast flashing if I do? Until I read this thread, I just assumed that the resistance values were similar due to the built in resistors.
They will flash fast due to less voltage use, you need a flasher relay for LEDs, DO NOT install a load resistor, they cause shorts.
Why would a resistor cause a short? A bulb is a just a resistor that lights up.
I have used in-line resistors for several years now on a number of different vehicles and have never had an issue with shorts. I prefer to use electronic blinker relays whenever possible but can't always get the type I need so I'm forced to use resistors. The new Ford vans do not have a relay that you can replace so you're stuck using the resistors unless there's a way to reprogram the computer to eliminate the blown bulb warning.
I have read horror stories where the turn signal wiring burned out after the installation of a load resistor, perhaps you've been lucky, or maybe the wiring in the older vehicles isn't able to handle meddling, I don't know, I'm just passing on what I know.
Resistors, just like bulbs "consume" or "absorb" current whose by--product is heat---perfectly normal.
However wiring to any device that draws more current that was intended does affect that wiring, best case scenario is it only warms to the touch. Naturally worst case is blowing fuses OR overheating wires or connectors to the point they fail completely.
Good data, I was beginning to think I was going to have to remove the dash to find the flasher.
Yes, led bulbs are expensive, I ordered the resistors just incase I could not find the flasher. Ordered most but not all of the replacement led bulbs and it was about $150, still have a couple more to go, map lights and backup lights that should be about another $75.00 to complete the job.
Would like to find the process to reprogram the fake flasher, so I can try it also.
My previous careers, 20 years military, 19 years with major oil company, I was a computer tech. My experience with soldering and wiring tell me that good solid connectors must be made, as well as a good mounting location for the resistors. Plus checking to see how warm or hot to the touch the resistors get in it's location. I ordered the 75 watt resistors , with is in the middle of the range, 50-75-100 watts. The smaller wattage the more heat that is generated by the load/ballast resistor.
Would still like the process to reprogram the unit, if any one has it.
I used new plugs and lenses when I replaced the side marker lights with LEDs. I also sealed them in with a hot glue gun to keep moisture out. Each bulb had four LEDs and think they were about $2.50 each. Much brighter than regular bulbs.
I plan on replacing the plugs for the blinkers as well, so could I just solder in the 75ohm resisters while I'm at it?
Since these are dual filament, do I need resisters on the parking light circuit/brake circuit as well? Or do the resisters just go on the blinker circuit?
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