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I can appreciate the time you took to write that lengthy response that I have seen posted on many threads but I am very versed in running bio and have run hundreds if not a few thousand gallons. I was simply looking for an update from sanddemon on his venture of running B-100. Many people are misinformed about bio and should really read up , from my experience with buying commercially made biodiesel I have nothing bad to say, the mileage loss is negligible and the BENIFIT of running a cleaner burning, better lubricating fuel is what I'm looking for as well as keeping my dollar in this country for a renewable resource.
I can appreciate the time you took to write that lengthy response that I have seen posted on many threads but I am very versed in running bio and have run hundreds if not a few thousand gallons. I was simply looking for an update from sanddemon on his venture of running B-100. Many people are misinformed about bio and should really read up , from my experience with buying commercially made biodiesel I have nothing bad to say, the mileage loss is negligible and the BENIFIT of running a cleaner burning, better lubricating fuel is what I'm looking for as well as keeping my dollar in this country for a renewable resource.
My post was directed at the new user who started this thread after inadvertently filling with B100, thus the full set of recomended maintenance items.
I think when this engine was designed and the B5 limit set biodiesel was a much less consistent product and at that time only B5 was commercially available with any sort of standards. This many years on I think commercial biodiesel is a lot higher quality than back then and much of the reason for the B5 limit probably no longer exists.
As others have noted, biodiesel will tend to "clean" out accumulated crud, so putting B100 in a used truck could well cause some filter clogging issues. Certainly a fuel filter change is in order, particularly if one hasn't been done since buying the truck. Since you rarely get a detailed maintenance history with a used vehicle, it's best to start off with a full service anyway to get to a known starting point.
I think this is where the big concern with running b100 comes in, maintenance.
In building up and running b100 in my 7.3, the biofuel lubricates better the the dino fuel, problem with the though, it breaks up the gunk that dino fuels have built up in a fuel system over time. Recommended maintenance for switching to full bio, is a filter change every 500 miles the first few times as the gunk comes loose. After that when the filters stop looking so gross, standard intervals can be applied.
Full bio fuels use a nitriole line as compared to standard rubber in fuel delivery systems. I had to swap out a couple oring gaskets on my IPR and bowl on my 7.3 in order to run b100.
These 6.4's however, i can see gooing up the DPF burner due to the naturally higher viscosity of the B100 over time. I am sure that better lubrication would occur with the exhaust stroke on regen with B100 as compared to dino fuel, but that dpf wont like it over time, lol!
I don't really see how it can hurt a DPF? the fuel enter the DPF on the exhaust stroke to be able to ignite and burn the soot out.... I don't see where viscosity ids going to be a concern? Bio also has a lesser particular matter than dino diesel does so I call bull...
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