OEM PARTS
#1
03-04-2014, 07:59 PM
OEM PARTS
OK so I got it when it comes to oil filters and cap--OEM FORD
Head gaskets--no question--OEM FORD
My question is should ALL parts used be OEM Ford? Sensors, fuel filters, waterpumps, etc? Is there any items like this that could be from a normal parts place like Autozone, Orielly, etc? Just gathering my intel
Head gaskets--no question--OEM FORD
My question is should ALL parts used be OEM Ford? Sensors, fuel filters, waterpumps, etc? Is there any items like this that could be from a normal parts place like Autozone, Orielly, etc? Just gathering my intel
#5
03-04-2014, 08:17 PM
#6
03-04-2014, 08:18 PM
#7
03-04-2014, 08:46 PM
This is always a good place to start when looking for OEM Ford parts
AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake Parts (previously Tousley Ford Parts)
and I like Rotella T6 5W40 Synthetic (and my injectors like it, too)
AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake Parts (previously Tousley Ford Parts)
and I like Rotella T6 5W40 Synthetic (and my injectors like it, too)
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#9
03-04-2014, 11:22 PM
OEM fuel and oil filters are Racor filters. Ford and International brands of these filters are Racor made filters.
Ford's fuel treatment is good. So are many others.
The HFCM "WIF" drain plug absolutely MUST be upgraded. I believe the upgraded one first came from International part. Ford sells one also.
Ford's alternators are marginal - even though some people have had success with them. Some people have argued this, but the DCPower alternators are very good. They are expensive though.
Internationals one-piece STC fitting upgrade for the 05-07 HPOP's is a must have. It is also sold by Ford, but Ford did not adopt it for the first couple of years that it was out.
The 03 and early 04 HPOP's from Ford are not all that reliable. Dieselsite's HPOP is supposed to be a good upgrade. I do not know if it truly is or not. If I had an 03, I would probably be running the Dieselsite pump.
I run the BPD water pump and love it. That being said, I did not have any issues w/ the OEM one - but the larger 05-07 water pumps are larger (and better) than the earlier ones (again IMO).
RiffRaff sells CAC boots that are better than OEM. Also, their metal CAC tube is better than the pastic one - although Ford sells a metal CAC tube also.
Ed's premium rebuild of Ford's or International's FICM is better than the OEM FICM - even the OEM remanned FICM's you can buy now. BPD makes a nice aftermarket FICM - personally I do not believe that it perfoms any better than Ed's rebuild, or that it is any more reliable. Other companies (like SWAMPS) are selling upgraded FICM's that are supposed to be better than OEM.
BPD's EGR cooler for late 2004 through 2007 is much better than OEM.
BPD's oil cooler is much better than OEM, but it is WAY expensive. I just can't justify it.
Some people say that 100% aluminum aftermarket radiators are better than OEM, but I believe that some are and some aren't. The OEM radiators are a decent price from AutoNation, so they are not a bad choice.
Motorcraft Premium brake pads are pretty darn good. Nothing wrong w/ the Ford rotors either (IMO anyway).
IMO the only transmission fluids to use are Mercon SP and Mercon LV - although many people say that Valvoline MaxLife is an acceptable substitute (and some claim there are others).
I have gone with Mobile 1 synthetic differential fluids and a Royal Purple transfer case oil. I am pleased - who knows if they are better or not.
I have gone w/ either a Mobil 1 or Valvoline transmission fluid for the Power Steering fluid also (Mercon V rated) - can't recall which one right now.
Racor makes a good fuel pump (by itself) that can be installed in the HFCM instead of buying the whol HFCM. That is a nice option to have. It is probably the same as the OEM fuel pump.
Ford remanned injectors are a very good quality - probably better than most of the aftermarket rebuilders -except you would need to have them modified by someone if you are looking for larger ones.
I would love to hear a few comments on Turbos - I like the reliability of the later model year Ford turbo's, but there are several pretty good aftermarket choices - just remember that there are a few "pros, and cons" with each aftermarket choice (IMO anyway).
Batteries - I sure like the DieHard Platinums or the Odysseys', but they are expensive. Many people have found economy in WalMart batteries, Autozones batteries, etc. Some have had good luck w/ Ford's batteries - I haven't.
Folks used to complain a TON in the eaarly days about the OEM ball joints. You don't hear so much about them now. Not sure why.
Many people have used the Ford Gold coolant for a TON of miles (200k +) without a problem. That proves that it can be a good performer. Since so many people have had failures with it (clogging the oil cooler), it is hard to deny that there is something about that coolant that can fail prematurely, but there are clearly contributing factors beyond just the coolant: high heat, depleted additives, mixing it w/ other brands, using tap water, etc all may play a part w/ the failures. Nothing has been absolutely proven IMO (and I do not believe it is silicates because te Gold is a low silicate formula). EC1 (diesel rated) ELC coolant seems to be more "robust", but routine maintenance (flushes, etc) on it should not be ignored either.
Maybe the above can generate some "lively discussion". They just represent my opinions. I am sure many of them can be debated (and probably will be) - and that is just fine!
Ford's fuel treatment is good. So are many others.
The HFCM "WIF" drain plug absolutely MUST be upgraded. I believe the upgraded one first came from International part. Ford sells one also.
Ford's alternators are marginal - even though some people have had success with them. Some people have argued this, but the DCPower alternators are very good. They are expensive though.
Internationals one-piece STC fitting upgrade for the 05-07 HPOP's is a must have. It is also sold by Ford, but Ford did not adopt it for the first couple of years that it was out.
The 03 and early 04 HPOP's from Ford are not all that reliable. Dieselsite's HPOP is supposed to be a good upgrade. I do not know if it truly is or not. If I had an 03, I would probably be running the Dieselsite pump.
I run the BPD water pump and love it. That being said, I did not have any issues w/ the OEM one - but the larger 05-07 water pumps are larger (and better) than the earlier ones (again IMO).
RiffRaff sells CAC boots that are better than OEM. Also, their metal CAC tube is better than the pastic one - although Ford sells a metal CAC tube also.
Ed's premium rebuild of Ford's or International's FICM is better than the OEM FICM - even the OEM remanned FICM's you can buy now. BPD makes a nice aftermarket FICM - personally I do not believe that it perfoms any better than Ed's rebuild, or that it is any more reliable. Other companies (like SWAMPS) are selling upgraded FICM's that are supposed to be better than OEM.
BPD's EGR cooler for late 2004 through 2007 is much better than OEM.
BPD's oil cooler is much better than OEM, but it is WAY expensive. I just can't justify it.
Some people say that 100% aluminum aftermarket radiators are better than OEM, but I believe that some are and some aren't. The OEM radiators are a decent price from AutoNation, so they are not a bad choice.
Motorcraft Premium brake pads are pretty darn good. Nothing wrong w/ the Ford rotors either (IMO anyway).
IMO the only transmission fluids to use are Mercon SP and Mercon LV - although many people say that Valvoline MaxLife is an acceptable substitute (and some claim there are others).
I have gone with Mobile 1 synthetic differential fluids and a Royal Purple transfer case oil. I am pleased - who knows if they are better or not.
I have gone w/ either a Mobil 1 or Valvoline transmission fluid for the Power Steering fluid also (Mercon V rated) - can't recall which one right now.
Racor makes a good fuel pump (by itself) that can be installed in the HFCM instead of buying the whol HFCM. That is a nice option to have. It is probably the same as the OEM fuel pump.
Ford remanned injectors are a very good quality - probably better than most of the aftermarket rebuilders -except you would need to have them modified by someone if you are looking for larger ones.
I would love to hear a few comments on Turbos - I like the reliability of the later model year Ford turbo's, but there are several pretty good aftermarket choices - just remember that there are a few "pros, and cons" with each aftermarket choice (IMO anyway).
Batteries - I sure like the DieHard Platinums or the Odysseys', but they are expensive. Many people have found economy in WalMart batteries, Autozones batteries, etc. Some have had good luck w/ Ford's batteries - I haven't.
Folks used to complain a TON in the eaarly days about the OEM ball joints. You don't hear so much about them now. Not sure why.
Many people have used the Ford Gold coolant for a TON of miles (200k +) without a problem. That proves that it can be a good performer. Since so many people have had failures with it (clogging the oil cooler), it is hard to deny that there is something about that coolant that can fail prematurely, but there are clearly contributing factors beyond just the coolant: high heat, depleted additives, mixing it w/ other brands, using tap water, etc all may play a part w/ the failures. Nothing has been absolutely proven IMO (and I do not believe it is silicates because te Gold is a low silicate formula). EC1 (diesel rated) ELC coolant seems to be more "robust", but routine maintenance (flushes, etc) on it should not be ignored either.
Maybe the above can generate some "lively discussion". They just represent my opinions. I am sure many of them can be debated (and probably will be) - and that is just fine!
#10
03-04-2014, 11:56 PM
#11
03-05-2014, 06:06 AM
#13
03-05-2014, 06:22 AM
Here is the best place to get your filters if you want to buy in bulk. NTF and Racor manufacture the OEM filters and are cheaper than Motorcraft: Home - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks
#14
03-05-2014, 07:17 AM
The most common choices for oil grade are 15W40, 5W40 and 10W30. Ford has published specifications for the grade of oil that depends on ambient temperature. On at least one another forum, the validity of the ambient tempearture chart (and Ford's recommendation's) was questioned (ie the poster did not feel that ambient temps played a part on the high end).
I can't find the link to the chart right now, but IIRC you can dig it out from each individual oil at the links below:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...Motor%20Oil%5D
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...f/oilchart.pdf
5W40: -2*F to over 100*F ambient temp
15W40: acceptable down to 10*F , but recommended only down to 20*F
10W30: 0*F - 50*F
Ford has changed these ranges somewhat over the years, so a link to the current chart would be helpful if someone has it (I will look for it this evening).
Bottom line, there is no doubt that there is a temperature limit for oils on the low end (because the oil should be flowing at least a little bit when cranking - lol). Pan heaters can change the game. In some extremely cold climates, folks have gone to a 0W40 oil (there may be a 0W30 diesel oil also - can't recall).
On the high end of the ambient temperature range, there are climates that are hot enough to "tax" your coolant system - especially when towing. One arguement is that modern oils are rated to extremely high temps anyway. This is very true, but bottom line is that the oil temp you read on your aftermarket gauge system is NOT the hottest temperature that your oil will see - it is a bulk measurement. Even if an oil doesn't begin to degrade chemically, their physical properties do change at elevated temps and this can possible cause issues (wear, corrosion, reduced detergent capability, foaming resistance, etc). Who knows if Ford is being conservative or not with their chart - they most likely are (but who knows HOW CONSERVATIVE they are being though).
Because the 6.0L injector spool valves are pretty finnicky, clean oil and proper viscosity oil is important. IMO (I have no definite proof), people that use 15W40 oils tend to experience more stiction issues than those using 5W40 oils (also, experiencing stiction seems to be more common for those that are using 15W40 oil in the cold climates). Many smart people are getting on the 10W30 band wagon - most posted experiences with it are very good (and the # of people that are posting up on it are increasing). The posted Used Oil Analyses (UOA) on it look very good also. Very few of them are going past 7500 miles OCI though.
The Ford spec on oil change interval (OCI) is 7500 miles for typical service and 5000 miles for severe service. Some people are pushing past those limits, but there is far too little data to claim that that is acceptable, let alone wise IMO. I am sure that there are different opinions out there (and that is OK w/ me!). Again IMO - for those that like to experiment with their own vehicle (and pocketbook), then their experimentation is propbably good for us all - however many of them tend to start recommending it as acceptable WAY before it has been proven to be good for MOST people. There are just too many variables in individual engines to make this a wise recommendation IMO. I stick to a 5000 mile OCI because it is conservative (someday I may go up to 7500 miles). Many people have stuck w/ a 7500 mile OCI and it works well for them. IMO, deciding to go past the 7500 mile OCI, has a high enough possibility of causing undesireable consequences (long term) for a large enough percentage of folks, that I wouldn't ever feel good about recommending it ..... even if a few people seem to be able to do it.
One last (controversial) topic on oil ... viscosity shearing. The 6.0L engine is fairly hard on oils with regard to viscosity. They all shear (experience lower viscosities) with engine hours (probably heavy engine loads cause more shearing than light engine loads). The 5w40 (maybe the 15W40 is also, but I didn't think so) oil seems to be more susceptable to shearing than the other oils. IIRC, this is most likely due to the fact that oils with wider ranges in cold vs hot viscosity rating (ie the 5W and the 40) achieve that range with additives (polymers). These additive break down with usage. Some people claim that the 5W40 oils viscosity drops so low by 5000 miles that it is better to use a 10W30 to begin with. Personally, I do not agree with this, but the 10W30 is proving to be a very good oil. I have a ton of UOA of my own engine and you can read up on peoples experiences on BITOG. While the 5W40's do frequently shear into the 30wt range after 5000 miles, they don't all do it. Some are just barely dropping into that range at 5000 miles. The oils that do drop into the 30wt range (and some are more susceptible to it than others) are almost always at the upper end of the 30 wt oil spec range. The 10W30 oils do shear and drop further into the 30 with range as they are used. They do not shear as quickly as the 40 wt oils, so it is theorized that the 40wts will eventually drop below the 30 wts at some point of usage. That may be true, but I do not believe that it will typically happen at (or before) 7500 miles. As far as cost goes, 5W40 synthetic diesel oil is generally pretty expensive. Rotella T6 is probably the best value (at the typcal store pricing). I like the Mobil 1 TDT 5W40 and my UOA seem to be better with it. Using 5W40 at 5000 mile OCI's will cost you around $90 in oil per change. Using a good 10W30 oil will be quite a bit less. This price differential definitely fuels the debate on which one is better. There is a lot of history with success with 5W40 oil and 5000 mile OCI's. It is hard to argue with success. That being said, there are a lot of people switching to the 10W30 and showing very good results also. Definitely hard to argue with their sucess! Can the 10W30 be used at the ranges of ambient temperature that the 5W40's can be used??? Who knows for sure - some folks are certainly being successful with it when working it hard (ie towing in hot areas).
Edit - here is the official chart:
http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/doc...renceSheet.pdf
I can't find the link to the chart right now, but IIRC you can dig it out from each individual oil at the links below:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...Motor%20Oil%5D
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...f/oilchart.pdf
5W40: -2*F to over 100*F ambient temp
15W40: acceptable down to 10*F , but recommended only down to 20*F
10W30: 0*F - 50*F
Ford has changed these ranges somewhat over the years, so a link to the current chart would be helpful if someone has it (I will look for it this evening).
Bottom line, there is no doubt that there is a temperature limit for oils on the low end (because the oil should be flowing at least a little bit when cranking - lol). Pan heaters can change the game. In some extremely cold climates, folks have gone to a 0W40 oil (there may be a 0W30 diesel oil also - can't recall).
On the high end of the ambient temperature range, there are climates that are hot enough to "tax" your coolant system - especially when towing. One arguement is that modern oils are rated to extremely high temps anyway. This is very true, but bottom line is that the oil temp you read on your aftermarket gauge system is NOT the hottest temperature that your oil will see - it is a bulk measurement. Even if an oil doesn't begin to degrade chemically, their physical properties do change at elevated temps and this can possible cause issues (wear, corrosion, reduced detergent capability, foaming resistance, etc). Who knows if Ford is being conservative or not with their chart - they most likely are (but who knows HOW CONSERVATIVE they are being though).
Because the 6.0L injector spool valves are pretty finnicky, clean oil and proper viscosity oil is important. IMO (I have no definite proof), people that use 15W40 oils tend to experience more stiction issues than those using 5W40 oils (also, experiencing stiction seems to be more common for those that are using 15W40 oil in the cold climates). Many smart people are getting on the 10W30 band wagon - most posted experiences with it are very good (and the # of people that are posting up on it are increasing). The posted Used Oil Analyses (UOA) on it look very good also. Very few of them are going past 7500 miles OCI though.
The Ford spec on oil change interval (OCI) is 7500 miles for typical service and 5000 miles for severe service. Some people are pushing past those limits, but there is far too little data to claim that that is acceptable, let alone wise IMO. I am sure that there are different opinions out there (and that is OK w/ me!). Again IMO - for those that like to experiment with their own vehicle (and pocketbook), then their experimentation is propbably good for us all - however many of them tend to start recommending it as acceptable WAY before it has been proven to be good for MOST people. There are just too many variables in individual engines to make this a wise recommendation IMO. I stick to a 5000 mile OCI because it is conservative (someday I may go up to 7500 miles). Many people have stuck w/ a 7500 mile OCI and it works well for them. IMO, deciding to go past the 7500 mile OCI, has a high enough possibility of causing undesireable consequences (long term) for a large enough percentage of folks, that I wouldn't ever feel good about recommending it ..... even if a few people seem to be able to do it.
One last (controversial) topic on oil ... viscosity shearing. The 6.0L engine is fairly hard on oils with regard to viscosity. They all shear (experience lower viscosities) with engine hours (probably heavy engine loads cause more shearing than light engine loads). The 5w40 (maybe the 15W40 is also, but I didn't think so) oil seems to be more susceptable to shearing than the other oils. IIRC, this is most likely due to the fact that oils with wider ranges in cold vs hot viscosity rating (ie the 5W and the 40) achieve that range with additives (polymers). These additive break down with usage. Some people claim that the 5W40 oils viscosity drops so low by 5000 miles that it is better to use a 10W30 to begin with. Personally, I do not agree with this, but the 10W30 is proving to be a very good oil. I have a ton of UOA of my own engine and you can read up on peoples experiences on BITOG. While the 5W40's do frequently shear into the 30wt range after 5000 miles, they don't all do it. Some are just barely dropping into that range at 5000 miles. The oils that do drop into the 30wt range (and some are more susceptible to it than others) are almost always at the upper end of the 30 wt oil spec range. The 10W30 oils do shear and drop further into the 30 with range as they are used. They do not shear as quickly as the 40 wt oils, so it is theorized that the 40wts will eventually drop below the 30 wts at some point of usage. That may be true, but I do not believe that it will typically happen at (or before) 7500 miles. As far as cost goes, 5W40 synthetic diesel oil is generally pretty expensive. Rotella T6 is probably the best value (at the typcal store pricing). I like the Mobil 1 TDT 5W40 and my UOA seem to be better with it. Using 5W40 at 5000 mile OCI's will cost you around $90 in oil per change. Using a good 10W30 oil will be quite a bit less. This price differential definitely fuels the debate on which one is better. There is a lot of history with success with 5W40 oil and 5000 mile OCI's. It is hard to argue with success. That being said, there are a lot of people switching to the 10W30 and showing very good results also. Definitely hard to argue with their sucess! Can the 10W30 be used at the ranges of ambient temperature that the 5W40's can be used??? Who knows for sure - some folks are certainly being successful with it when working it hard (ie towing in hot areas).
Edit - here is the official chart:
http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/doc...renceSheet.pdf
#15
03-05-2014, 07:45 AM
