Started with the tail gate , bottom had some rot issues . So I tacked a peace of 18 gauge to the inside and started working with a rubber mallet . I was able to shape the flat steel around the tail gate and wielded it to the inside . Some grinding and a little plastic and it came out fine . Some times you have to use what you have when the proper tools are not around . Then the good running motor that I bragged about when I first got it started , CAME BACK FROM THE SHOP {$ 1600 later ] .So now motor trans and drive line is installed . Of course when I went to put the distributor cap on I found that the 56 cap won't fit the 57 distributor that is in the motor . No problem as when I went to look for the carb , I remembered it is at the shop for a rebuild . Carbs are one thing I stay away from , Never had much luck rebuilding them . A man has to know his limitations . So I am making good progress . Need to make hinges for the gate next . then mount the front of the box , had a local company make one $ 140 . Thinking of naming it Pearl , To honor my father , Pearl Ray Smith . He drove ambulances in WW II and then drove a fuel delivery truck for the rest of his life . He would have gotten a kick out of the old 3/4 ton .By the way I just could not talk my way into painting the motor yellow .Sorry , But at least it doesn't have one of those awful Chevy motors .

 

Wow, Dave, nice work on the tailgate. I wouldn't recognize the truck from a few months ago!

 

Nice work! I wish I could do decent body work like that

 

Dave, looks to me like Pearl will be ready for a trip north the first part of June. Looking good. Careful what you say 'bout them cheby motors.

 

Excellent!!

Nice work on the tailgate.

Bobby

 

Nice work man! I wish I had skills like that! Keep it up!

 

Nice work Dave! That's a great way to salvage that and make it look good.

 

Very nice work, keep it up.

 

Really nice work, and great looking shop and buildings you have.

 

Dave that is impressive. The "before' tailgate looks just like mine.
Would you mind sharing a bit more detail on the sheet metal wrap. The hammer laying on the gate doesn't look like a rubber mallet but of greater interest to me is how you smoothed out the dents in the metal which seem inevitable no matter what hammer or block you may use.
Also, since you seem adept at metal work I would ask your opinion on another option I have. I found a donor gate that is near perfect on the bottom but mangled on both upper corners. It looks to me like I could cut the bottom off both gates where the lower angle of the sheet metal begins to wrap around the bottom and weld the good bottom on to my gate then do the grinding and smoothing you must have done on the inside where you began the welding. Does this seem possible to you or anyone else who may read this.

 

First , on the inside of the gate there is an seam line where the curve stops and the flat begins . I took a measurement from there to the spot on the out side of the gate that I wanted to stop at [ about 6 inches ] . I then tacked the replacement metal to the inside of the gate [ you must make it strong so the hammer blows don't break it louse ] . Using a rubber mallet with about a 4 inch round flat head , I started on one end and worked to the other , hitting it hard enough to bend it a little at a time . I took my time and had to go back and forth many times . Once you get the panel bent around about 9 degrees start hitting the bend so it stays tight to the gate , then continue going back and forth until panel hits the ends of the gate . At this point you have to slice the panel so you can continue the bend . I used c clamps to hold the ends tight and tacked them , to the gate . To finish the bend I used the 2x4 and big hammer , again working from one end to the other . I had to slice the panel to clear the ribs in the gate . when the panel is tight to the gate , c clamps hold it in place while you tack it . Finish wielding and grinding then fill with plastic , then paint . Not hard if you go slow .