A quick question on...air intruision
#1
A quick question on...air intruision
Will bad caps cause the truck not to start? I thought it was my glowplugs at first, but after I replaced them all, the truck will still not start. I tested the old ones at .4 ohms, I should have tested a new one before I stuck them all in. My injector caps are leaking pretty bad, and while I am waiting for new ones to get here does anyone know if that will cure my problem? I know usually they start and then die in that situation, but mine will not start at all. To reinforce this, the glowplugs are staying on for a long time, and the truck is smoking a little bit while cranking.
I am worried that this is not the problem however, because if I plug my truck it it will start right up. But if not plugged in it will make no effore to start, not even while it is in the shop(70℉). Any help will be appreciated, I hope nothing major is wrong because the truck was running the best it ever has the day I parked it.
Thanks
Austin
I am worried that this is not the problem however, because if I plug my truck it it will start right up. But if not plugged in it will make no effore to start, not even while it is in the shop(70℉). Any help will be appreciated, I hope nothing major is wrong because the truck was running the best it ever has the day I parked it.
Thanks
Austin
#3
Air intrusion will only cause it to not start until the fuel that bled back reaches the engine again.
So, if you plug the truck in and let it warm up, it fires right up and runs well?
If that is the case, it does sound like a GP issue. What brand of GPs did you install? Have you checked with a meter or test light that the GPs are getting power when you turn the key?
So, if you plug the truck in and let it warm up, it fires right up and runs well?
If that is the case, it does sound like a GP issue. What brand of GPs did you install? Have you checked with a meter or test light that the GPs are getting power when you turn the key?
#4
the gp controller can turn on the WTS lite and not send power to the gp's, you must verify the gps are getting voltage by using volt meter at glow plug when you turn on ignition. you may have a bad, or corroded connection at the gp relay, or the main power fusible link is blown, when the ignition is off one of the big connectors on the relay should have voltage. if not, the main power to the high current relay has blown fusible link or bad connection, this main wire should be found hooked to the long post at the start relay, where the main batt cable is hooked. the fusible link is a yellow or green block of plastic on the wire, aprox six inches from the conector, watch your dome lite it will dim when you turn on the ignition, and there should be a click under the hood that corresponds with the dimming as the gp controller heats the gp's if not replace the controller, most come with new relay.
#5
the gp controller can turn on the WTS lite and not send power to the gp's, you must verify the gps are getting voltage by using volt meter at glow plug when you turn on ignition. you may have a bad, or corroded connection at the gp relay, or the main power fusible link is blown, when the ignition is off one of the big connectors on the relay should have voltage. if not, the main power to the high current relay has blown fusible link or bad connection, this main wire should be found hooked to the long post at the start relay, where the main batt cable is hooked. the fusible link is a yellow or green block of plastic on the wire, aprox six inches from the conector, watch your dome lite it will dim when you turn on the ignition, and there should be a click under the hood that corresponds with the dimming as the gp controller heats the gp's if not replace the controller, most come with new relay.
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