really hard start
#1
really hard start
My truck has an interesting starting problem on my (new to me) 2000 F250 w/7.3 Diesel and Auto Trans. I hope it is a simple fix.
I have not been pluging it in because I need to get a new block heater plug. The previous owner (I swear it wasn't me) ripped it out because he didn't unplug it.
So when I get in the truck and turn the key, the "Wait to Start" light comes on for about 10 seconds the goes off. When I start cranking, it will crank and crank but it wont fire at all, just a lot of white smoke.
I thought that I may just need to cycle the glow plugs a few times to get it to warm up enough but no luck.
Here is the interesting part. At about the second cycle I hear a buzzing coming from under the hood. After about the 5th cycle, sometimes as many as 10, I noticed that about a second after the "Wait to Start" light came on and the buzzing started that the light would dim and the buzzing would have a much lower pitch. When I go to crank it then, it starts perfectly, like there is no problem at all.
What is that buzzing noise? ....And why does it miracoulously start if I cycle it until the WTS light dims and the buzzing tone goes lower?
I would love to fix this issue and have it start right after only one cycle of the glow plugs.
Oh, by the way, you dont have to cycle it at all once it has been running for a few minutes and you shut it off.
I have seen a lot of other posts but no one has said anything about the same symptoms as mine.
I have not been pluging it in because I need to get a new block heater plug. The previous owner (I swear it wasn't me) ripped it out because he didn't unplug it.
So when I get in the truck and turn the key, the "Wait to Start" light comes on for about 10 seconds the goes off. When I start cranking, it will crank and crank but it wont fire at all, just a lot of white smoke.
I thought that I may just need to cycle the glow plugs a few times to get it to warm up enough but no luck.
Here is the interesting part. At about the second cycle I hear a buzzing coming from under the hood. After about the 5th cycle, sometimes as many as 10, I noticed that about a second after the "Wait to Start" light came on and the buzzing started that the light would dim and the buzzing would have a much lower pitch. When I go to crank it then, it starts perfectly, like there is no problem at all.
What is that buzzing noise? ....And why does it miracoulously start if I cycle it until the WTS light dims and the buzzing tone goes lower?
I would love to fix this issue and have it start right after only one cycle of the glow plugs.
Oh, by the way, you dont have to cycle it at all once it has been running for a few minutes and you shut it off.
I have seen a lot of other posts but no one has said anything about the same symptoms as mine.
Last edited by Combat Engineering; 02-28-2010 at 12:02 AM. Reason: misspelled words
#3
Yes, something is going on with the glow plug system.
Either the relay is failing and taking a long time respond to the command to energize the glow plugs, or there is some reason that the ECU is not commanding the relay to come on.
First thing in the morning, test for power at the driver's side large post for the GPR (glow plug relay)
I doubt you will find any.
Next, try grounding the small driver's side post. Don't worry about shorting anything, that post is how the relay is commanded to come on via a grounding signal from the ECU.
If the relay clicks and you now have power at the large post, then the problem is not the glow plug system, but for some reason the computer is not commanding the relay to come on.
Most likely it is just a bad relay, they fail all the time.
Either the relay is failing and taking a long time respond to the command to energize the glow plugs, or there is some reason that the ECU is not commanding the relay to come on.
First thing in the morning, test for power at the driver's side large post for the GPR (glow plug relay)
I doubt you will find any.
Next, try grounding the small driver's side post. Don't worry about shorting anything, that post is how the relay is commanded to come on via a grounding signal from the ECU.
If the relay clicks and you now have power at the large post, then the problem is not the glow plug system, but for some reason the computer is not commanding the relay to come on.
Most likely it is just a bad relay, they fail all the time.
#4
I'll concur with the above and raise you one cranking voltage check.
One of these days I'm going to capture the change in sound while cranking from injectors firing (=> 10volts) to injectors NOT firing (< 10 volts) I know there is smoke, but I'd still check. Relays get pissy when their operating voltage fluctuates.
One of these days I'm going to capture the change in sound while cranking from injectors firing (=> 10volts) to injectors NOT firing (< 10 volts) I know there is smoke, but I'd still check. Relays get pissy when their operating voltage fluctuates.
#6
I agree with checking the glow plug system. For the block heater plug, I'd suggest the Marinco. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ater-plug.html
I think the life of the glow plug system has more to do with the climate it's in and how often it's used. My factory GPR and glow plugs are still functioning properly. My wife's GPR went last year.
I think the life of the glow plug system has more to do with the climate it's in and how often it's used. My factory GPR and glow plugs are still functioning properly. My wife's GPR went last year.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Sounds as if you've been using autolite plugs. If you stick with the Ford or International plugs stamped Beru, you won't have the problems with the tips swelling in the head.
#10
#11
We use ford parts in our fleets, and the plug that broke off was O.E. at 90K. Just sayin'.
#12
I guess anything's possible. Sounds like you're fleet is pretty hard on the glow plug system. A lot of turning the engine on and off? How long do the starters last?
#14