ill get pics tomorrow if i remember lol but it is pretty clean and not worn ... ann new plugs going in .. lol .. i took today off and went for a motorcycle ride as i needed the peace and calm that comes with that .. plus having 5 kids around also does not help with the quickness of this swap / build lol ..

 

here is inside motor pics ..

here is the old 250,000 mile motor





lots of varnish .. the valve covers looked to have some sludge on them but no sludge on the valvetrain ..

here is the new to me motor 88,000 miles





got the sparkplugs out with out breaking them lol .. let it sit overnight in
wd-40 lol






in the last pic you can see two of the plugs were filled with crud .. all came out relatively easy one was really in there but it came out .. i hooked my shop vac up with a tiny little attachment to suck everything out from the plug wells before taking them out .. then i stuck it inside the cylinder to suck out anything that might have got inside ( i used a straw and some pex pipe and attached it to the shop vac lol .. ) took of the exhaust manifolds as the new ones did not have egr and the old one had egr .. only had 4 bolts break and needed an easy out .. took all of ten min to remove the 4 of them though

now to take of the accessories and put the old ones on the new motor ( i trust them more than the new ones lol dont ask why ) and then put fresh new motorcraft plugs back in and then some other things i need to get and then it will be time to stuff her back in to her new home the van

 

If you're not already ahead of me plug-install wise I highly recommend nickel based anti-seize on the plug threads. This always seems to raise some controversy with MC being platinum plated, its not necessary etc etc its still a good idea. I've done it without any downsides so use your own best judgement there.

I do increase my plug torque to 21-23 ft/lbs though and that too works just fine---never had a plug back out on me.

I'm assuming you'll be keeping your "new" accessories? If so when/if one of the originals fail you've got back up.

Good progress so far!

 

Looks good Tim!

Just wanted to point out that you will never have a problem getting these plugs out without breaking them. You're likely confusing issues with the 3V engines which use a completely different design plug. This two-piece plug has a habit of getting frozen in the hole with carbon, and because that part is separate from the threads it will snap off and stay in the hole after the threads come out. That's not possible with this plug design. They've never given me a problem, and in over ten years on FTE I've never heard of a single person having issues getting them out of a 2V head.


Strongly disagree here. The most common group of people who have plugs blow out are those who don't use a torque wrench, and they most of the time overtighten them. Factory plugs never blow out, and they are installed to the factory 11-15 lb-ft without anti-seize. Nobody ever complains about removing them either.

The threads need to be bone dry and torqued properly. If you add a lubricant such as anti-seize and increase the torque you are more than doubling the clamping force the threads were designed to hold. Not a good idea IMHO.

 

Thanks for the pics.

Any difference in slop or looseness between the hi vs low mile timing chain/gears?

As I recall there is an idler that is involved too

 

Fully agree not using a reliable torque wrench (or any torque wrench) is most likely the cause of early plug/head design blow outs. I don't agree using anti-seize or increasing torque slightly beyond the factory spec of 14 ft/lbs is fraught with too high potential for causing issues, to wit: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ead-heads.html

Boy howdy this issue always creates some havoc and uprisings!

 

Wow, never saw that thread before, thanks for sharing!

 

Yeah I know---kinda floor me too when first stumbled across it---highly interesting and not as much urban myth or anecdotal mis-information as we see so often about this single topic.

I wonder if it couldn't be, shouldn't be part of our Tech Folder here?

 

I think it could!

 

i am not taking the new motor any further apart but i will say the chain feels the same tautness as the old one ... so there is not much difference if any .. got to love chain driven valve train ... vs belt

 

and as far as the plug issue i am using motorcraft plugs from ford .. and using ford specs to put back in ..

 

weeelll i found out today that my ford dealer parts department are rippof artists lol ... i wanted to stick with ford oem parts for three items... of the seven items i need to finish this up .. they wanted $351 for those three parts .. i walked away laughing .. went back to summit racing online and bought all the items for $175 .. silly dealership ... i wonder how the parts departments are still able to do buisness lol oye

 

Without some sort of trade discount or the willingness to do a bit of shopping for like kind and quality parts its easy to pay too much for this and that. Truthfully dealerships don't really care a great deal about walk-in DIY customers for their own reasons, most likely because they do a much higher volume of sales to garages and other "professional" outfits.

What parts did you need and find so much less costly at Summit?

 

exhaust manifold gaskets .. 195* thermostat ... exhaust manifold studs and nuts.. ( they wanted $2 per stud and $1 per nut lolololol) serpentine belt ,, i ended up needing this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-3967/overview/ cause i ****ed up the old one removing the old motor .. getting some energy suspension bushings for sway bar ...

also i noticed that the pully width is different between the truck motor and the van motor also the oil pan is different .. the van one is wide and not to deep .. the truck one is wide but is a little narrower then after the cross member it is a bit deeper..

here is the truck one


and the van one


but from what i can see it should still fit

 

Hmmm

Never been under an F-Series so can't really say for sure why the pans are different---assuming the cross member is in a different position relating to the engine?

This shouldn't affect the oil filter rail on the lower left should it?