bad news wouldnt stop...literally
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2013
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bad news wouldnt stop...literally
This morning started off great...got up early ate breakfast and drank coffee with wife and kids. Loaded the truck up with tools and took off for a residing job that I needed to finish today before the rain started. I got about halfway there when a car stopped short and I had to slam on my own brakes. Felt the pedal go to the floor which scared me since I had my dog and two of my three daughters with me so I babied it to the job and found the leak. The hydraulic hose for the rear right side brake busted. Got the new hydraulic line but couldn't get the rusted ridged line off of it. Ended up getting all new lines for the truck...since I am there might as well replace all the lines and make them new again. For under $200 I thought that was a good deal. I am going to do the work myself...as I was thinking about this I would like to seek some knowledge and try to avoid some of the pitfalls that others have experienced. It would be a ton of help if you have anything. Thanks so much.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,512
Likes: 3
From: Panama City
Apply liberal amounts of PB Blaster before you start the job to all connection. Would help to do it 2-3 times and let sit if you can. Also if you dont have a set of tubing wrenches buy 1. Makes a world of difference
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
For new hard lines it always helps to have the right tools. Here is my array:
It's flexy and close to accurate for measuring the routing:
This tubing cutter from Speedway Motors (Item #: 91089526) for $10... that's a sweet deal. The cool thing it is that one of the rollers is relieved for an already-flared end. Meaning, it will allow cutting and removal of only the flared end which is less than 1/4-inch long... great for reflaring old lines or double-flares which don't come out quite right.
Eastwood 49041... The tang allows it to be installed in a vise.:
Eastwood 49074.. for those slight tweaks:
.. and a black Sharpie pen. Get your tubing and fittings from Speedway Motors.
It's flexy and close to accurate for measuring the routing:
This tubing cutter from Speedway Motors (Item #: 91089526) for $10... that's a sweet deal. The cool thing it is that one of the rollers is relieved for an already-flared end. Meaning, it will allow cutting and removal of only the flared end which is less than 1/4-inch long... great for reflaring old lines or double-flares which don't come out quite right.
Eastwood 49041... The tang allows it to be installed in a vise.:
Eastwood 49074.. for those slight tweaks:
.. and a black Sharpie pen. Get your tubing and fittings from Speedway Motors.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,701
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If you bought prebent, then you are most of the way there. You "might" need to take the flare nuts off with vice grips if everything is that rusted. I have found that regular box end wrenches just round things off if they are really rusty.
When it comes time to bleed, start with the right rear. If you have a helper, good. If not, put a hose from the bleeder into a jar of fluid so when you let off the pedal it doesn't suck air back in. Once you stop squirting bubbles, you can move to the left rear, then the right front and finally the left front, repeating the process. Push the pedal slowly; 3-5 seconds to reach the floor.
When it comes time to bleed, start with the right rear. If you have a helper, good. If not, put a hose from the bleeder into a jar of fluid so when you let off the pedal it doesn't suck air back in. Once you stop squirting bubbles, you can move to the left rear, then the right front and finally the left front, repeating the process. Push the pedal slowly; 3-5 seconds to reach the floor.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2013
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The nuts that are on the drums themselves are fine but the ones connected to the flex line are rusted solid...dont want to have to go through this again so just going to knock it out now...does anyone know the size of the nuts that are on the flared ends? That eould really be helpful so I can get a single wrench on ebay rather than pay $100 for a full set...still doing some research to find the best fit for me on the wrenches but also looking for the most cost effective.
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defiantoutlaw
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jan 19, 2014 12:51 PM
