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HELP!!! no start

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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 09:55 PM
  #16  
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Unhappy More info

Replaced the ICP plug (Ford - $180). Had the batteries tested by someone I trust. They tested as good. Cleaned the terminals and cables. Put them on charger for 5 hours (not long enough far a full charge, but long enough to test).
No start (still!)

Getting fuel to the filter on the engine, and plenty of speed from starter. I believe the injectors are not getting a signal to open.

Attached AE and got good communication (ECU is not burned?).

Tested the truck with all the non-running tests possible in AE (that I know of).

Watched the battery voltage drop to 9.6V when I tried to start it with a running diesel on one battery and a charger on the other. I know that is an issue, but that won't shut down a running truck, which is how this all started.

Checked for codes and got back:
  • P1760 Feedback signal not detected
  • P1293 injector high side open Bank 1
  • P1294 injector high side open bank 2

Also tried the buzz test. Got NO buzz, but watched the RPM gauge jump in time to when I expected to hear the buzzing from the injectors. One large jump and eight small jumps.

Right now, I'm frustrated and pissed that I cannot find the reason for the non-start.
I'm still looking for help and ANY suggestions are welcome, except to sell the truck. That ain't happenin.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 10:43 PM
  #17  
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bump to the top
 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 05:36 AM
  #18  
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You lost your IDM there. I'm not saying it's dead, but you have an issue with it.

With AE connected, the FIPW is 0.6 any time the key is on, until the truck is ready for fuel while cranking. If you have 0.0 FIPW, you don't have PCM/IDM synchronization... they aren't talking to each other. The buzz test failed because the IDM is on strike or dead. Check all connections to the IDM, particularly the ground strap in the fender well. Clean your connectors with electrical contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease. Inspect the IDM for damage or water intrusion.

Check the 42-pin connector on the engine while you're at it. Ohm out the injectors to be thorough.

 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 08:21 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
You lost your IDM there. I'm not saying it's dead, but you have an issue with it.

With AE connected, the FIPW is 0.6 any time the key is on, until the truck is ready for fuel while cranking. If you have 0.0 FIPW, you don't have PCM/IDM synchronization... they aren't talking to each other. The buzz test failed because the IDM is on strike or dead. Check all connections to the IDM, particularly the ground strap in the fender well. Clean your connectors with electrical contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease. Inspect the IDM for damage or water intrusion.

Check the 42-pin connector on the engine while you're at it. Ohm out the injectors to be thorough.


That is what I'm talkin about!!! Real information that the dealer won't give you. I will check the IDM and connections.

Just one question.... where is the IDM located? and how much is one?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 08:36 AM
  #20  
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found the price... ~$200
 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 11:25 AM
  #21  
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It's behind the driver-side fender well. You have to remove the mudguard from the fender well to get at it.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 05:53 PM
  #22  
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Thank you. Now for the time to do it.............
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #23  
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Cool UPDATE

UPDATE ...... I have taken the IDM out. Ohm'd out the wiring from the IDM connector. Get approx 10.8ohms through each injector on the left bank. The wires are not indicating short to ground, hot short or any other wiring issues EXCEPT an open on every injector on the right bank (passengers side).

I am planning on UVC harness and gaskets for both banks and new GPs (whether needed or not). Also a new IDM is in the works. I also need someone else to load the ammo for a Buckzooka.

With the open circuit on the pass side and no other wiring issues indicated, is there anything else I should be looking at?

All suggestions considered....... except selling it
 
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Old May 17, 2014 | 10:33 PM
  #24  
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Update Update Update

Purchased a new IDM ($149, no core precharge), full UVCH set (2 sides worth), 8 new glow plugs (both from Riff Raff) and a few tools to work with.
Finally had enough time off work to get over to the truck and fix it (120 miles away at my fathers' house).
Got under the VC's (first time ever) and pulled the old UVCH and plugs. Replaced them all. Both sides had loose connections, passenger side 3/4 loose. I think it shorted the IDM to ground and blew the IDM. I then checked the wiring with instructions from GB manufacturing TB#103 (not where I purchased the IDM).
I installed the IDM, charged the batteries (dead after being parked for 10 weeks) and started the truck like it was running yesterday. The truck ran beautifully around town and all 120 miles home.

I want to say thank you to all who replied and gave me direction on this issue. I had no idea of the cause when I posted the problems originally. As usual, you guys / gals came through. YOU ROCK
  1. This brotherhood is the best. Thanks
  2. The collective knowledge here is beyond anything I've experienced, EVER
  3. Everyone here is AWESOME. Thank you all, again.
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 06:42 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for reporting back! Someone in the future will benefit from your efforts. Great job on the fix!
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 09:38 AM
  #26  
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THAT'S what I'm talking 'bout. Glad o hear it worked out and she's up and running again.
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 11:14 AM
  #27  
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One thing I didn't mention was that I did check each battery, out of the truck. Both were good. Cleaned the posts s part of the diagnostics.
 
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