ABS Light on
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I bought my Explorer used with 50,000 miles and have since put an additional 210,000 miles on it. The only issues I have ever had with the ABS have been related to the sensors in the front wheel bearing hub assemblies. Our local Advanced Auto was able to pull the codes for me. On one occasion after replacing the hub assembly a short time later the ABS light and 4x4 high light came on. The problem turned out to be that I didn't have the new ABS cable back in the proper place and secured right and it almost rubbed in two which messed up the signal being sent.
Brenda... You mentioned you changed one of the hubs already. This might be something to try. It's free and only takes a few minutes to inspect the cable. I would even look the one you didn't change over as well as consider changing it.
Brenda... You mentioned you changed one of the hubs already. This might be something to try. It's free and only takes a few minutes to inspect the cable. I would even look the one you didn't change over as well as consider changing it.
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Grrr... I will try again with my local guys. If they can not read the codes I guess I will go to the dealer. 
unless it costs as much as buying the professional meter with ABS. I removed the ABS cable from the passenger side while doing ball joints. I checked it over before reattaching... did not appear damaged in any way.
unless it costs as much as buying the professional meter with ABS. I removed the ABS cable from the passenger side while doing ball joints. I checked it over before reattaching... did not appear damaged in any way.
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ABS Light update
I found a 20% off coupon for harbor freight. The model I bought is Centech 60794... listed as ODBII/OEBD + ABS. Lists for $139 on sale for $109 less my 20% $87.20 + tax so I am in for $92. Would cost me about $98 for a diagnostic. so I am ahead $6. lol
I pulled the C1165 Code - Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure. Is this located in the rear Differential?
OK... Just looked in Chilton... Apparently the Rear Speed Sensor is internal to the Rear Axle half shafts.
I did not see a cable in this area to check for connectivity. Is there one to check?
I pulled the C1165 Code - Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure. Is this located in the rear Differential?
OK... Just looked in Chilton... Apparently the Rear Speed Sensor is internal to the Rear Axle half shafts.
I did not see a cable in this area to check for connectivity. Is there one to check?
Last edited by Brenda Lamka; Mar 16, 2014 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Additional info
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
As mentioned in post #7 of this thread, your 2003 Explorer could have either a 3-channel ABS system or a 4-channel. You need to determine if your Explorer has AdvanceTrac or RSC. There will either be a badge on the rear liftgate or some indication/button on the instrument cluster or dashboard.
From the factory service manual: "NOTE: Vehicles without traction control and stability assist have a single rear wheel speed sensor mounted to the rear differential. DTCs C1165 and C1175 will be set if there is a rear wheel speed sensor input circuit failure; DTC C1165 can be disregarded."
If you have the 3-channel system, the rear speed sensor will be mounted towards the front top of the rear differential, above the driveshaft. There should be a wire going to it with a connector. If you have a 4-channel system, there will be no sensor on the rear differential and instead there will be a sensor on each rear knuckle/hub. The sensor will NOT be internal to the rear axle half shafts. There will be a tone ring on each rear half shaft with a sensor mounted to the knuckle/hub. The sensor is item 3 in each of the following images.
3-channel system:
4-channel system (both sides similar):
-Rod
From the factory service manual: "NOTE: Vehicles without traction control and stability assist have a single rear wheel speed sensor mounted to the rear differential. DTCs C1165 and C1175 will be set if there is a rear wheel speed sensor input circuit failure; DTC C1165 can be disregarded."
If you have the 3-channel system, the rear speed sensor will be mounted towards the front top of the rear differential, above the driveshaft. There should be a wire going to it with a connector. If you have a 4-channel system, there will be no sensor on the rear differential and instead there will be a sensor on each rear knuckle/hub. The sensor will NOT be internal to the rear axle half shafts. There will be a tone ring on each rear half shaft with a sensor mounted to the knuckle/hub. The sensor is item 3 in each of the following images.
3-channel system:
4-channel system (both sides similar):
-Rod
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I have no information on my lift gate at all. There are no buttons on the dash for AdvanceTrac or RSC. The only cables I see on the rear wheel are the emergency brake cable and the brake hose to the caliper. That being said, I believed I had the 3 point system and might be seeing a cable at the top forward end of the rear diff. If that is what I need to check it is in a horrible location! I can barely see it let alone get to it easily. So assuming this is the sensor harness... how would I go about testing it, under what circumstances would I replace it and should this correct the error code? According to the Note:"NOTE: Vehicles without traction control and stability assist have a single rear wheel speed sensor mounted to the rear differential. DTCs C1165 and C1175 will be set if there is a rear wheel speed sensor input circuit failure; DTC C1165 can be disregarded." The only code I found was the C1165 and the light is on, so why should it be disregarded?
Can I spray it down with MAFS cleaner and reconnect?
Can I spray it down with MAFS cleaner and reconnect?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
If you don't have tone rings on the half shafts and a sensor at each wheel, you probably have the 3 channel system. I'm not sure how to interpret having just the C1165 code in that scenario though.
You could try cleaning the sensor connector and sensor with MAFS cleaner, but the sensor is a hall-effect sensor so there's not an exposed element like with a MAFS. If you go to the work of removing the sensor you might as well plan to replace it. From what I've read the sensor is not that pricey.
-Rod
You could try cleaning the sensor connector and sensor with MAFS cleaner, but the sensor is a hall-effect sensor so there's not an exposed element like with a MAFS. If you go to the work of removing the sensor you might as well plan to replace it. From what I've read the sensor is not that pricey.
-Rod
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The sensor itself is about $40. So I might just replace it to be sure of a long term fix. I do wish to get at least 100k miles out of it. The next item will be new tires on the front. Trying to match the rear as close as possible in the hopes of not killing the transfer case prematurely. Thanks again.
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The sensor itself is about $40. So I might just replace it to be sure of a long term fix. I do wish to get at least 100k miles out of it. The next item will be new tires on the front. Trying to match the rear as close as possible in the hopes of not killing the transfer case prematurely. Thanks again.
Check Rockauto.com for these parts. I have priced sensors for my explorer much cheaper through them than at my local parts store.
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Success! I replaced the wheel speed sensor in the rear Differential and unplugged and reattached the ABS cable on the drivers side. I found another code saying not getting signal from that side. ABS light is OFF! YAY. This also corrected the issue with the Cruise Control. It kicked in and maintained speed immediately upon hitting the button!.
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OK, ABS light intermittently comes on and will then go off after a while. I am not sure if it is the connection at the drivers side or something else. I replaced the wheel bearing hub which includes the abs sensor on the drivers side. I had a code indicating a lack of signal from the drivers side. After spraying the connections with MAFS cleaner and reconnected them the light went out and the cruise control was working. Now with the ABS light intermittent, the cruise control does not work again. I taped the connectors together, but still same symptoms. Argh, any ideas?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Can you get in to a datastream mode with your scan tool to monitory the individual wheel speeds real time? If so, see if it is jumping around, drops out below a certain speed, or only acts up with some environmental condition (cold temperature, rainy, etc.). What diagnostic code is stored?
-Rod
-Rod
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