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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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Engine Identification

I just bought a 65 f100 long box. The guy I bought it from replaced the 352 with a rebuilt 360. He bought the 360 from the person that rebuilt it. I have no idea what the 360 came out of. How would I go about identifying the "engine donor"? I'm sure this info will be helpful down the road when buying parts. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 03:44 PM
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More info: on the intake manifold behind the carb it is stamped D4TE9425B2A any input would be appreciated.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 04:27 PM
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You cant.

If it runs well, just replace the tuneup parts with the same parts you take out.

Is it a 2v or 4v? Oem manifold or aftermarket?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Chef Tim
More info: on the intake manifold behind the carb it has a casting number of: D4TE-9425-B2A
Welcome to FTE

1974/76 360/390 intake manifold. If from a 390, it could be either a 2V or 4V.

But the engine could be any FE size from any year. Look for a 3 digit date code cast on the block near the starter. Similar to this: 4D3
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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2v carb with Oem manifold.
Of course it was a Casting and not a stamp... I shall endeavor to be more precise. I'll check for the 3 digit block code
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 02:15 PM
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Tim the only was to determine the engine size on a FE is to measure the stroke. There are no casting numbers that will allow you to figure out displacement, especially if the engine was rebuilt. Who knows if it was rebuilt as it came out of the original vehicle, or was it rebuilt with mismatched parts?

The engine in my 66 has a tag riveted to the block that state "remanufactured by Ford". Is it the original engine, is it a service replacement, or did it come out of something else? I don't know.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 08:12 AM
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Thanks ShadowRider and NumberDummy.
I have read a couple different websites that say the same thing, only way to tell if it's a 360 or 390 at this point is to measure the stroke. Am I correct in assuming then that the only parts that would be different between the two displacements will be the Crankshaft and connecting rods?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Chef Tim
Thanks ShadowRider and NumberDummy.
I have read a couple different websites that say the same thing, only way to tell if it's a 360 or 390 at this point is to measure the stroke. Am I correct in assuming then that the only parts that would be different between the two displacements will be the Crankshaft and connecting rods?
The rotating assembly, YES.


John
 
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 08:40 AM
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Thanks. I appreciate the info.
I'm glad to have found this site, I've had more questions answered just by reading old threads than I could have ever thought.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:12 PM
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based on the amazing 8 mpg I'm getting I'm going to guess it's a 360!!!
I found a asticker on the valve cover that had been rattle canned over that says build date was January 1974. So at least the valve cover and manifold agree.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:56 PM
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8mpg in not out of range. FE are pullers not sippers. Any idea what the rear ratio is? You need to get it down in the 3.00 range for better mpgs.



John
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 08:03 PM
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What transmission is in your truck? Another option that keeps the low gear grunt but can give lower highway RPMs and a little better mileage is an overdrive.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chef Tim
based on the amazing 8 mpg I'm getting I'm going to guess it's a 360!!!
Sounds pretty good. Much better than my 7 mpg.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 10:03 PM
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stock three on the tree and i'm guessing 3.5:1 on the rear end. I think that's stock. I have no problem doing 60 but 70 is screaming. I might make the diff my next project...
 
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 04:04 AM
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I believe most FEs had 3.25 or 3.00 behind them, your 3.50 is a stock number but I haven't seen as many used. If it is screeming at 70, you likely ore 4.10.

Take a quick look on the rear to see if the tag is still there. You can post the numbers back here.

I like to get the truck on a very level place (like a garage floor), make a mark on the left rear tire where it touches the floor and another mark or piece of tape at a bolt end on the rear. Then with someone there as backup for safety, hand roll the tire one complete revolution while counting the revolutions of the drive shaft. This should give you an accurate count of the actual true ratio, because it is in real time.



John
 
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