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Thanks, I'm assuming your truck is a D50TTB not a D44HDTTB, I don't think they did both options that late but better to ask.
Yeah I have no idea what it would take to put on superduty hubs with the manual override option, I haven't looked into it much yet. But from what I can tell from pictures the D60 Superduty hubs look like they mount just like all previous D60/D50 hubs. And cause the auto feature is vacuum operated the knuckle has to be built for that to even have a chance of that being a viable option.
Edit;
Just did a little quick research on the hub thing. So far I can't find any reason why someone with a setup like yours with vacuum operated auto hubs couldn't bolt on some stock superduty hubs and end up with auto + override lock.
As far as I know, Ford didn't use vacuum-operated auto hubs until the new body style ('99 for the heavy duty F-250 and F-350). Prior to that auto hubs were engaged by the rotation of the axle. So I think it would be VERY difficult to put the newer style auto hubs on an old body style front axle.
As far as I know, Ford didn't use vacuum-operated auto hubs until the new body style ('99 for the heavy duty F-250 and F-350). Prior to that auto hubs were engaged by the rotation of the axle. So I think it would be VERY difficult to put the newer style auto hubs on an old body style front axle.
I thought they were all vacuum, back to google.
Edit, my bad, you're right, I made an assumption.
So I guess I'd have to figure out how to seal vacuum in the knuckle and add a hose fitting. Ohh well, a project for a MUCH later date.
So if I'm reading this stuff right the stock auto locking hubs will disengage under engine braking and in reverse? If so that's retarded.
I have a very large "50" stamped on the underside of the pumpkin so im assuming its a D50 TTB. When im in 4x4 my auto hubs seem to stay locked all the time. I have no clue if my 14 year old hubs are working right either. IIRC the "atuo" hubs on mine seem to be locked all the time and spinning everything at once just disengaged from the T-case.
I just confirmed from another post that mine are not working right. So assuming yours are they should disengage completely when stopped or in reverse.
So if I'm reading this stuff right the stock auto locking hubs will disengage under engine braking and in reverse? If so that's retarded.
Nope, the hubs will stay engaged under engine braking. And when you shift to reverse they will unlock briefly and then lock again. That unlock-lock cycle can break hubs if you get on it a little right when you change direction, but once locked in reverse they work in reverse the same as they do in forward (which means the unlock-lock again when you shift back to forward).
The pre super duty auto hubs engage via a cam mechanism. When the axle and tire rotate at different speeds (when you're stuck or on ice) The cam action slides the locking mechanism engaged. The only time they will unlock is when you're rocking the truck. Just putting it in reverse will not unlock the hubs because the axle is still being powered and turning the shafts the same (or darn close to) speed as the tire. There are cases where turning in reverse and other weird instances the hubs unlock, but they don't do too bad staying engaged.
I no longer own the truck I tried this on, but on my '95 F-150 they definitely did unlock every time the wheel reversed direction, whether the axle was turning or not. If the axle was turning it would then relock, otherwise it would stay unlocked.
And what you're saying doesn't hold true anyway. The axle and wheel ARE turning the same speed when spinning a tire on ice, that is, unless the hub is unlocked. In that case the wheel will stop while the axle keeps going. And that's exactly what happens which is why you can blow out an auto hub be rocking the vehicle.
When you reverse direction without spinning the rear tires there will never be any relative motion between the front wheel and front axle. Both will be turning the same speed. But the hub still unlocks. It just doesn't hammer itself when it relocks.
You need to regrease them then. Thicker grease keeps them locked in better.
I've had quite a few of these auto lock hubs, and all mine stay locked pretty well.
For them to unlock they need to spin a little without load for the cams to spin and release. When you spin forward and then reverse, yes the cams come off the peaks of the locking ramps to unlock, but in mine, the springs never really pushed the locking ring out of position by the time the axle spun backward to relock the hub. I've always cleaned all the dirty metalicky thin grease out and put a good amount of new good grease in there.
There were times plowing when I was rocking it hard and got in a good rythum and they would come unlocked and banged and chattered.
I prefer manual hubs but for most people, auto hubs do the job just fine and I don't swap them unless they are broke.
As fior the brakes, The 1/2 is NOT noticeable, so unless you are getting the parts for free, it is hardly worth the swap
The 1/2? You mean 1/2" larger rotor?
While I agree if better braking was my primary goal here there are much better mods. But I'm looking into this cause I'm thinking I'll swap a D50TTB into a truck so I'm shopping for one. So if I can get a larger rotor and a much better caliper by tracking down a 95-97 then I think that would be worth the extra shopping, I'm in no hurry.
I do however already have one from an 88. It's the wrong gear ratio but I think a 4.10 D50TTB would be harder to come by then a 95+ one. So I might start the modifications with the one I have then put on the knuckles when I find some, still no hurry though.
The hub stuff I'll work out later, I really doubt I want anything to do with those style auto locking hubs.
It's hard to type what I mean..... When under load they won't unlock. You need to be either slow shifting and babying it from forward to reverse , or catch it just right while rocking it for it to unlock.
Everyone's hubs act differently as well. Some are worn, some stick, some have strong springs to unlock them, or any other possibilities.
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