straight axle vs ifs
i believe, and it has been proven, that the ttb can be beefed up to some extent and be quite reliable but when you compare how much it is gonna cost to beef up a ttb or swap in a straight axle (and have so many more options with a striahgt axle) ppl tend to sway towards the bandwagon and get a solid D60.
that's not to say that ttb can't take a beating...i'd say 70% of the folks in my bronco club are running a ttb setup, beefed up or not and the front axles usually hold up. BUT not many of us are running anything above 37" tall tires.
i am a strong believer that a stock ttb setup with 35's will last a long time given you maintain everything well and that you finesse it off road....also anything bigger than 35's and the ttb is gonna be pushed to it's limit's
that's my humble opinion *flame suit on and zipped*
flame on suckas'-cutts-
Now, I'd really like to know where you're seeing IFS trucks that just slap on swampers and trim the fenders without doing any beefing of teh front end and see them live any sort of life under hard use. The TTB D44 ford will snap the stub shaft before a solid D44 will lose an axle and TTB is a PITA to align once you get big rubber on it and start playing hard (the frame twists). Not so much of a concern for a trail rig, but definitely one for a daily driver.
Justin
That's my mudder. Anyway the TTB is a great daily driver when taken care of, but when you start puttin power, tires and trail abuse to it, it becomes very easy to break things and thus spend big money on parts that WILL break again. Overall a solid front axle is the way to go for the money if you are serious about 4x4ing. I will be swapping out the TTB out of that truck (although i haven't broke anything yet, but both front axle seals are leaking) for a dana 60 SAS out of a newer truck.
But to each his own, and money determines a lot of what a stock 4x4 will turn in to.
BTW those are 35x16x16.5 boggers and the body line were cut out with a plasma cutter.
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Justin
One thing though is that there are a few guys out herre where i am that have taken jeep CJ's and then choped the frame and morphed the front frame off a ttb truck (engine crossmember forward) and he used a 6" lift and did some mods and is getting 15" of travel. Anyway i've seen these jeeps in the tough trucks competition and these jeeps have been cleaning up (they put in something like 4.50 gears and CTM u joints). but anyway i think the TTB is better built for light vehicles (nothin heavier than a 1/2 ton) and that way you can get away with running some power and some decent sized tires.
The AutoFab stuff is as good as it gets.
The following info is straigt from John Emkhe, owner of Autofab.
To make the transition from a lift to wheel travel kits involves changing the existing coil mount bucket to our custom made coil buckets combination shock mounts. Here is where we offer 2 choices, both kits offer 16" front wheel travel, the big kit is enough tubular hoop and shock mounts for up to 4 shocks per wheel. Or an option that works awesome is a package with 2 large 2.5"Racerunner shocks per wheel? (as a suggestion) 2.5" shocks are $400 each. All suspension is fully cycled with the beams to assure the best fit and most wheel travel. Our quality mig welding complete this kit and it is ready to bolt on. these kits come with all components to construct a bolt in tubular crossmember over the motor to the top of each hoop. some fitting and welding is required here. All critical mounting hardware is supplied in grade 8 , All bushing and bracket mounts to the frame and crossbar are included. the bump stops are setup for you and high strength limit straps are included with mounting to the radius arm . You drill a hole in the frame to mount the other end. The steering geometry is excellant and the on road driving is superb! Price on this package is 2750 includes coils but not shocks. Options include 1)$200, Reinforced Traction beams! We weld 1/4" plate gussets into the weak areas of the housing to the pivot bushing ends. You can bend stock housings when jumping! 2)$70, Skid plate for the low area of the front housing. 3) $130, Compression inserts for the coils to beef up the front spring rate 4)$200 Coil adjuster kits! This will allow you to fine tune the ride height and make accurate adjustments.
The second kit is designed with a single sway away 2.5" racing shock per wheel , custom coil bucket and shock mount structure for the full 16" travel. Much easier to install , a nice compromise between the basic lift and the big travel kit , perfect for the rock climber guy . No engine crossbar with this design as it is lower and closer to the coil bucket itself. Resevoir mounts are provided on the front side of the bucket. It does include bump stops and limit straps. price 2500. Same options above apply as well. Each 2.5 racing shock is $400.
For the rear we offer a custom set of progressive leaf springs. Our unique anti wrap up 2 link traction bar kit that will cycle for the full 16" travel on broncos and 18" travel on trucks. A properly designed 2 link is important to long life of leaf springs. I will explain: What flattens, fatigues, or breaks leaf springs is hitting bumps and the power at once. If a spring just goes up and down they last a long time. It is the twisting that getting on and off the gas causes, commonly called spring wrap up that puts the kabash on your spring investment. The 2 link keeps the twisting from happening and allows the spring to deflect for full travel and no wind up. The pivot points of the 2 link are extremely critical for proper function. You can't just throw a bar in anywhere if you want proper wheel travel as well. If the link bars are not designed right you can actually make your truck handle worse because the spring is binding. You may at this point choose to put some longer shocks in the stock mounts and be done with it or go for the wheel travel kits. On the bronco we have a complete upper bolt in crossmembers (2) for the upper shock mounts that fits under the floor pan of your bronco. Lower mounts are included and do require some welding after locating with the existing shock mount. All fabrication is high quality designed for good looks and durability. price on the rear bronco kits is $2000 for springs, 2 Link anti wrap up kit, Bolt in upper shock mount structures. Weld on lower shock structures, Necessary grade 8 bolts and nuts, and Limit straps.
For the rear of trucks we offer 18" rear wheel travel using the stock leaf spring frame mounts and shackles! It consists of a through the bed tubing structure that mounts the long travel shocks necessary for that much wheel travel. The lower shock mount is the spring plate that the rear end U bolts to. This way the shocks are up high for ground clearance and will not interfer with stock fuel tank or exhaust system, typical problems when trying to mount long travel shocks under the bed! The cage shock mount structure is bolted to the frame using Autofab bushing assemblies and special mounting brackets. Some holes will need to be drilled when installing our kit. We provide frame reinforcement for the bump stop and it ties through to the middle cage mount of the rear kit. The bed cage is mounted with six bushing assemblies total. The rear bed cage structure is designed to adapt easily to your in cab roll cage if that is in the planning. Custom progressive leaf springs are included in rear kits. These are absolutely necessary for proper spring rate and full travel! All rear truck suspensions also come with our unique 2 link traction bar kit that properly cycles for 18" wheel travel! Heavy duty limit straps are included in basic kit price of $2750. Spare tire mounts can be added if you wish for additional $.
Shock prices vary based on quality from 50 to 210 each, large 2 1/2 swayaway 330ea. Doetsch Tech , Rancho etc. around the 50 mark and resevoired bilstein or fox racing 2" shocks 210 ea. Rock climbing does not require expensive shocks , serious prerunning and high speed offroading require resevoired racing shocks. Cheaper shocks will heat up and fade away under hard offroad use. We offer tech advise if you need it.
To properly install our kits you have to be able to completely dismantle your front end , the same as to change gears, only a step further because you have to break the knuckle ball joint area apart to change over to our beams , and of course send your good parts back to us for core charge refund. You will also have to be qualified with a tape measure , I certainly dont mean this as an insult but i have met numerous people that did not know how to read a simple ruler. You will have to locate brackets and drill mounting holes in the frame , 1/2" holes. You will be removing the entire rear suspension as well and that can be a real chore sometimes when the bolts get frozen in! You will also have to be able to get rivets out of a frame. A simple technique here is to drill the rivet first with about a 1/4" drill about halfway through, then cut the head off with a cold chisel or pnumatic hammer chisel, then using a large punch , drive the rest of the way out.
We know it is a lot of work to do your suspension this way But, It truely is the only way to do it right ! I encourage anyone to tackle it themself as when you complete it you will have gained tremendous knowledge and confidence !
Last edited by rlh; Oct 3, 2004 at 12:41 AM.
Edit: I'm on my way to put on my fire proof pajamas!
Last edited by rlh; Oct 3, 2004 at 12:56 AM.



