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I goofed

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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:03 PM
  #1  
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I goofed

Well fellas i goofed. My 1990 7.3 has clear fuel lines between the injectors. Well i have air intrusion on three of then. Well i wanted to fire it up today and she was hard to start well i got her to run long enough to run out of fuel which was only about 2 minutes. Whats the best way to reprime the fuel systems cause im still using OEM fuel pump
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:00 PM
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floor it while cranking. But, actually, if it runs for more than about 10-15 seconds, you've got a different problem I think.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 10:31 PM
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Shes been running good then I had a hard time getting her to start she ran but alittle ruff then died after about 2 minutes then when i tried to firw her up I noticed no fuel in the lines
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 11:15 PM
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Are you sure you have fuel in the tank?
Sounds like you just ran out. (if you're at 1/4 tank or less, remember that the rubber end can break, meaning you suck air at that point)
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 11:29 PM
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the return system will always have air bubbles in it post injector, check to see if your filter head has a small plastic check ball behind the return line nipple, warning the check ball will fly out so remove nipple slowly. this nipple has a small orifice in it, to allow fuel to return to the tank, constantly when the engine is running if this check ball is worn or stuck or missing the fuel can drain from filter head, when you shut off the engine.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 11:30 PM
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In answer to your final question, the best way to re-prime the system, is to crack the injector lines, and crank her until you can view discharge of fuel at the hard line to the injector. If you have clear lines between the injectors, you need to replace them. Two minutes of running is enough to point your problem towards a lift pump failure to me. There are a lot of variables to consider, but I think you have a lift pump problem.

Good luck,

Mac.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by akamacgyver
If you have clear lines between the injectors, you need to replace them. .
can I ask why? I could see the benefit of having some clear lines to aide in the process of finding air intrusion.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 01:27 AM
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Im thinkin the fuel gauge lies cause it said I had an 1/8th of a tank. Ive got a brand new diesel in line electric fuel pump ive been planning to put on so ill go ahead and do that plus im replacing the injector orings this weekend.



Ive heard a454 bb chebby block off plate works for blocking off the lift pump on the 7.3 is that true?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 07:50 AM
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yup, a chevy fuel pump blockoff plate works. i left my mechanical pump on the engine and just connected the input and output lines together. this way if the e-pump ever dies i still have a pump to get home with.
if your gauge is only showing 1/8 tank, i bet you ran out of fuel. the pickup in the tank is known for cracking at around the 1/4 mark letting it suck air.
to get it running again, put at least 5 gallons fuel in the tank. then fill the fuel filter with fuel or diesel kleen. crack a few injector lines, and crank it over. 20-30 seconds, then let it sit for 2 minutes to cool off the starter.
once fired, close the injector lines.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 06:20 PM
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Thanks Tom.

Thanks for the tip about the lift pump ill definitely be doing that instead of blocking it off.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 09:25 PM
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I have always been hesitant to do that because if the diaphram in the lift pump fails, it could fill your crankcase with diesel. Unless you place the e-pump after the mechanical???

EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you connected the input and output lines on the mech together bypassing it completely. Good Idea!!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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Did you leave the mech sealed up with some fuel or atf in it for lubrication and to keep the diaphram from drying out??
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 09:32 PM
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What I would do is simple use a pair of T-s
You have incoming fuel from the tank, tee's into both mechanical and electric fuel pumps, and the outputs of both of those into one line, into the water separator.
It should work fine, as both pumps have check-valves built in.
If either pump fails, you should still be running, and if worse comes to worst(and the checkvalve in one pump fails completely), you can just block off one of the lines and keep going.

Personally, I've seen electric pumps fail more than mechanical ones, and the mechanical ones are far cheaper.
What I see is electric ones failing totally, and randomly. If it fails, your engine stops.
Mechanical ones start to lose pressure, or leak... they rarely just die as you're driving down the road. Now, you might not be able to get it started again if it's failing, but at least it won't die in the middle of traffic(usually).
 
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb
Mechanical ones start to lose pressure, or leak... they rarely just die as you're driving down the road. Now, you might not be able to get it started again if it's failing, but at least it won't die in the middle of traffic(usually).
Ha! my mechanical pump died in the middle of traffic... But like you said, it had been loosing pressure over the week or two before, I thought it had been the filter and hadn't taken the time to properly diagnose the problem. Then it crapped out one days just as I'm going through a traffic light, luckily I coasted through but was stuck in a high traffic spot in the left lane
 
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 06:48 PM
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the first mechanical pump i had died 200 miles from home on RT80. no warning, just bang dead truck. the lever pin broke, and that was all she wrote. had to get towed off the road.
the e-pump i have in it is a facet duralift, and it has been in the truck for close to 190,000 miles. i have a few friends that use them on their refrigerated trailers. 25+ years of use almost every day and still working like new.
mechanical pumps on the other had, i put in 4 in 300,000 miles.
 
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