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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:21 PM
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dying batteries

My truck can sit for two days and the batteries won't have enough juice in them to fire the truck. If I run it everyday they have just enough to fire the truck but it's sketchy most of the time. When sitting I have 12ish volts then with koeo letting the GPs warm up I'll watch the voltage drop to 10-10.5 volts. I'll let them do there thing crank and it's just enough to get the engine going. Once the GPs shut off it shoots up to 14-14.5 Volts and everything is good.

Obviously I have a power drawl but what could be sucking my brand newish batteries almost dead in next to no time? The temp here has been something frigid lately and I've been plugging it in as much as possible but even plugged in it's the same.... I hope it starts type deal. I now have my power back and want to get some other things squared away, this being one. During the rest of the year I don't have any problems just dead of winter... Figures
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:26 PM
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A fully charged battery should be at about 12.6 volts. How old are the batteries? Can you have them load tested? A bad cell in one can draw them down.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:30 PM
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What batteries are in it? Have they been load tested lately? Brutal cold can kill batteries.

I had problems with new OEMs in the cold, warrantied them out but put the new ones on the shelf for my other trucks that never see cold. Bought Diehard Platinum AGMs and these haven't even balked at -30 (and without being plugged in).
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:35 PM
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Well I'm at a fully charged voltage when cranking when I hit the GPs the voltage drops big time taking all the power and having a hard time starting. Batterys were installed 3-28-2013. Three sets of batteries since I've owned rhe truck and the same problem with all three sets.

EDIT: There interstate Megatrons
DOUBLE EDIT: 4 sets of batterys including the originals when I bought the truck don't recall what they were from them two sets of optima red tops and now the interstates
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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I would get them load tested, if they are bad and $ permits.....AGM type.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:48 PM
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I'd still start with a load test. They're under warranty. I've gone through a lot of batteries too, all under warranty. The next time they fail, I may just eat the cost and find a place to stuff a pair of group size 4Ds or 8Ds.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rotun
I would get them load tested, if they are bad and $ permits.....AGM type.
+1. My DH Platinums are working very nicely through the "polar vortex"
Super spendy though...
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:54 PM
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From the sounds of it my problem seems to be more common then I would hope. I'll have them load tested. They have an 80 month warranty so what do I care. 2 days seems ridiculous to me to hold a charge... If I'm lucky.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:55 PM
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$pendy they are, I got tired of replacing after 1 year, even under warranty, my time is better spent not waiting on others....was always when it was cold too.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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I would load test.

Check for obvious drain (you probably already did).

2 Amp charge with them disconnected for the weekend (2 day stint), hook em back up and see if they still don't perform.

On a side note, I noticed the underhood light on my '03 did not shut off when over the weekend it sat with the hood up....tapped on the switch and it went out. Removed useless bulb.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rotun
Removed useless bulb.
Ya got that right!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 04:02 AM
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I agree, get them tested. A bad battery can read 14.4 volts, but put a load on it and they drop quickly. They will also loose charge quickly. 3 tests can be done. 1) check the cells' water 2) load test to check CCA 3) simulate a crank to check voltage. I forget what this one is called, if someone knows what its called, chime in.

The 3rd is the most important and revealing.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 05:18 AM
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I don't agree with the AGM approach. While I'm sure many have had great experience with theirs, there are caveats: [LINK]

They are more finicky about how they are charged. Our alternator system is not configured for an AGM battery, it was made for conventional batteries.

They can get too warm under the hood... they don't like temps over 120 degrees F.

The best deep AGM I could find for my sail boat has fewer Amp hours (Ah) storage than just about any conventional starter battery I could find. The Ah rating determines how long you can leave your lights on with the engine off before the juice is too low to crank.

If you use your 7.3L as a gargantuan grocery-getter, the AGM shines here. If you do summer long-hauls in your vehicle, the AGM can be damaged.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 06:27 AM
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I just replaced my batteries with kirkland batteries. I looked into the AGM batteries and couldn't understand why you would put them in a car. They have no real advantages in that application.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
Obviously I have a power drawl but what could be sucking my brand newish batteries almost dead in next to no time? The temp here has been something frigid lately and I've been plugging it in as much as possible but even plugged in it's the same.... I hope it starts type deal. I now have my power back and want to get some other things squared away, this being one. During the rest of the year I don't have any problems just dead of winter... Figures

Do you have a CD player, I've seen more than one of these fail and continually draw power. Usually they car will start fine if you drive it daily but leave it for the weekend and you're not going anywhere. Pull the fuse and see if it fixes it.
 
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