Yes thats odd what causes that?

 

ODYSSEY Batteries - Automotive Benefits

The site claims temperature tolerances from -40*F to 176*F. The only time my engine compartment would see temps that high would be the dead of summer, mid-day, sitting in traffic and even then, not for long. Once moving, under hood temps will be back close to ambient in no-time.
Vibration and extreme cold are two factors that plague conventional batteries in our trucks. And AGM batteries seem to be tolerant of both.
Odyssey's website lists the 65-PC1750T as the appropriate battery for a 99-03 7.3L F-350, so I doubt the charging system limitations in Tugly's link. I'm led to believe this is the same battery as supplied to DieHard for the Platinum (I can't confirm this).

http://www.odysseybattery.com/docume...G-Web_0612.pdf
Page 91

I'm fine with dissenting opinions, but there are clear benefits to AGM batteries in our trucks. To say there aren't is false, in my opinion.

 

as in my signature.I gambled on Odyssey.If you find your self with deep discharged batteries much at all due to charging system failure/electrical draws,you will more than likely lose your investment,thats one thing these batteries wont tolerate well, the only thing that that lured me in was the extended service life.

 

I found a problem. Seems my GEM module is not shutting off. That's the only power source staying on and I believe that explains most of my problem. I've had nothing goofy other then that happeningbwith my electrical system.
Is there a good write up on how to pull one? I'm thinking I'll pull it and put it in a bowl of rice and see if I can save myself $300. My windshield seems to have a tiny leak or mostly condensation getting in. Has anyone found a way to stop the water from getting to it? I haven't looked at it yet but is it possible or a good idea to try and wrap a balloon around it to "waterproof" it. I know it sounds stupid and probably is but when I play with the truck in the mud/water I play hard

 

I think wrapping a balloon is a great idea as long as it is left open so it can breathe, the condensation should form on the outside of the balloon.

 

My logic exactly. I've never messed with one before or know what it looks like to be honest which is why Ive been looking for a write up with pictures

 

Don't really want to turn this into an Odyssey debate but there are several that have had nothing but problems with them after they moved there manufacturing plant, the older ones not so many issues. I wouldn't trust them that's why I went with the Diehard Platinum.

I have 2 under hood and a 3rd (marine version) on the outside frame rail behind the cab that runs my 6000w inverter, Oasis XD 4000, dvd system with 2000w of amps. Have ran a milkhouse style heater several nights off the aux in well below 0 temps for 2 N.E. Utah winter hunting trips and not a single issue with the AGM style. These have also lasted 2 SoCal summers and still no issues like was having with OEM. This setup is on my '07 6.0 with dual alt's.

I will continue to use what I have found works for me in my situations.

 

I'm sure my '03 doesn't have the GEM module but was just looking at some online pics of what they are. Seems they want it to breathe due to heat buildup within. Condensation will only be on the outside of the balloon if you completely seal it up but heat might become an issue then?

Any way to put a shield over it from the leaking windshield or is it just a moisture buildup? Maybe placing a few desiccant bags on top of or around it will help?

 

Hope this helps:

Grab a digital volt meter. Get a friend...........hook it to either battery.

Log the initial reading on both banks.. KOEO

Start pulling fuses 1 by 1 and leave them out. When the drainer is unplugged, you should see a volt spike/level and then you can determine which circ is the culprit. Remember that you should unplug courtesy/int light related fuse first because you will have your door open.

Start in the cab fuse panel first, then move to the under hood panel. Log each value. Start the rig and do the same. If they are even and you have good voltage, you can eliminate the alt and a ground or charging problem. I say this because ......if one Batt isn't getting an alt charge, it will balance down the one that's getting charged. (Kinda like a drunk girlfriend).

Patience is a virtue here: Take note of each volt reading at each fuse pulled. May look insignificant to you to have a volt change by as much as .01 volts but with your symptoms......a low volt pull overnight adds up fast.

Pay attention that you are leaving the drivers door open and int lights will draw down volts. When you log your readings make sure you don't change things up by shutting a door so you have a static reading!

Keep us posted. Good luck.

Denny

 

Have same issue with new Interstate batteries....been replaced twice under warranty....but my issue is from an extended stay in the snow w/cracked windscreen is a bad PCM,(I believe) or a bad fuse panel....did the GEM module trick and replaced w/ friends....no luck.....I am experiencing power draw and dead batteries and blinking and intermittent dash lights...door alarm that won't stop....and some various other small issues all related to PCM...like a ghost in the machine.

Good luck, I will tag your post as I work through PCM now, (gotta find one)

 

One thing have wondered about. Measuring for "parasitic draw" means my amp meter is in series with the battery. That means disconnecting battery. On my 2009 Ranger this means the computer needs to "relearn" shift points and idle settings. OK, no big deal I guess. But sometimes vehicles will basically need a trip to the dealer if the battery is disconnected. The question would be whether supplying 12 volts elsewhere to keep system memory alive (cigar lighter) would interfere with troubleshooting. Seems like it would have to.

Will those clamp on ampmeters measure down into the milli-ohm range? That might be the only practical way.

 

You can test each circuit of your electrical system easily with one of these toys...


This handy automotive fuse circuit tester has specially designed test leads that plug directly into your fuse box, allowing you to quickly diagnose electrical problems. The tester can be used on all circuits up to 30 amps and allows any automotive specialist or car enthusiast to diagnose electrical problems quickly!

• Reads voltage and circuit amperage draw
• Easy-to-read LCD display
• Protects automotive circuits during use
• Power-save auto shutoff after 30 seconds of non-use
• Plugs directly into ATC blade-style fuse slots

Cost about $10 and available from Harbor Freight . Measures to the tenth of an amp.

 

I heard Optima had moved there plant,but was not aware of Odyssey relocating.

 

I really can't say exactly why it happens, just that it does. I've seen it in a Caravan and a Vibe. It's one of the things you never think of to be causing the problem. Now it's the first thing I check. I ran into another weird one the other day where their "boomerang" some sort of GPS tracking thing was draining their battery they cancelled their subscription but the device was continually trying to connect to the gps killing the battery if it sat any length of time.

 

I wouldn't go so far as to say clear advantages but if you want one power to you. I personally consider vibration insignificant and all batteries will work in the cold. I too don't think the charging system is a consideration. I stand by my statement that I personally don't see any real advantages to the AGM batteries in our application if the costs were the same sure I would give them a go but as it stands today I don't believe they are worth it.