WOW!!! lotta talk about mis-matched parts, gaskets, year of engine. There are casting numbers stamped on each part, the head, the block, ect, ect. Get your numbers and either decipher them or have for do it for you, it's not that tough, you just have to fine the numbers. Here is a simple decoder list for you, I hope it help someone out.

In order, here is what each digit in a Ford part or casting number represents:
DIGIT #1—DECADE OF MANUFACTURE:

A - 1940
B - 1950
C - 1960
D - 1970
E - 1980
F - 1990
G - 2000
DIGIT #2—YEAR OF THE DECADE:

0 - 1960, 1970, etc.
1 - 1961, 1971, etc.
2 - 1962, 1972, etc.
Example: B8 = 1958; C1 = 1961; C9 = 1969; D9 = 1979, etc.
DIGIT #3—CAR LINE:

A = Ford (from 1958; Galaxie, Custom, LTD)
B = Bronco (1970-1973)
B = Maverick (1975-1977)
B = Fairmont (1978-1983)
C = Remanufactured Parts (1966-1975)
C = Ford Elite (1975-1976)
C = Mercury Capri (from 1979)
D = Falcon (1960-1969)
D = Maverick (1970-1974)
D = Granada (1975-1982)
D = Ford LTD (from 1983)
E = Ford Truck (Cab Over Engine; 1970-1973)
E = Pinto (1976-1980)
E = Escort (from 1981)
F = Foreign or TransAm Racing
F = Outside Sales (from 1962)
G = Mercury Comet (1961-1967)
G = Mercury Montego (1968-1976)
G = Ford EXP (from 1982)
H = Holman Moody HiPo Parts (until 1966)
H = Heavy Truck (1966-1982)
H = Medium Heavy Truck (from 1983)
J = Industrial Engines
K = Edsel (1958-1960)
L = Lincoln (1958-1960)
L = Continental Mark Series (from 1969)
M = Mercury
N = Tractor
O = Fairlane
O = Torino (1969-1976)
O = LTD II (1977-1979)
O = LN7 (1982-1983)
P = Autolite (1967-1972; Motorcraft from 1973)
R = Rotunda Brand (1962-1969)
R = Ford of Europe Imports (from 1970)
S = Thunderbird (from 1958)
T = All Truck Lines (1958-1965)
T = Light Medium Truck/Bronco (1974-1982)
T = Light Truck/Bronco (from 1983)
U = Econoline (1961-?)
V = Lincoln (1961-1981)
W = Cougar (1967-1973)
W = Bobcat (1975-1980)
W = Lynx (from 1981)
X = Trucks (1970-1973)
Y = Meteor (Canadian)
Y = Mercury Bobcat (1975-1980)
Y = Mercury Lynx (from 1981)
Z = Mustang
1 = (not used)
2 = Pinto (1971-1975)
3 = Tempo (from 1984)
4 = Comet (1971-1974)
4 = Monarch (1975-1980)
4 = Cougar (1981-1982)
4 = Marquis (from 1983)
5 = Recreational Vehicles (1974-1975)
5 = Continental (from 1982)
6 = Pantera (1971-1975)
7 = Courier Truck (1971-1975)
7 = Ranger and Bronco II (from 1983)
8 = Capri (1972-1975; U.S.-designed parts)
9 = Turbine Engine Parts (1970-1975)
DIGIT #4—ENGINEERING OFFICE RESPONSIBLE FOR ORIGINAL DESIGN:

A = Light Truck Engineering Division
B = Body and Electrical Product Division
C = Chassis Engineering (Powertrain and Chassis Product Engineering)
D = Overseas Product Engineering
E = Engine Engineering
F = Electrical and Electronics Division (Product Engineering Office)
G = (not used)
H = Climate Control Division (from 1972) (Product Engineering Office)
I = (not used)
J = Autolite/Ford Parts and Service Division (Parts and Service Engineering Office)
K = (not used)
L = Industrial Engine Operations (Ford Parts and Service Division)
M = Performance Operations and Special Vehicle Operations (SVO) (includes Holman Moody)
N = Ford Tractor Operations (Product Engineering Office and Diversified Products Operations)
O = (not used)
P = Automatic Transmission and Axle Engineering
Q = (not used)
R = Manual Transmission and Axle Engineering
S = Light and Heavy Truck Engineering/Truck Special Order Parts
T = Heavy Truck Engineering
U = Special Vehicle Operations (SVO)
V = Vehicle Special Order and Engineering Section
W = Transmission, Axle, and Driveshaft Engineering
X = Emissions, Economy and Special Vehicle Engineering (high performance parts)
Y = Lincoln/Mercury Division Service Parts
Z = Ford Division Service Parts
DIGITS #5-9—BASIC PART NUMBER:

This series of numerals denote the actual part description, i.e., wheel assembly, relay assembly, etc. It is possible a letter or two may also appear within the series of numerals. The basic part number is still the same, however if the alphabetical letters are disregarded.
DIGITS #10-12 (SUFFIX)—DESIGN CHANGE:

Normally an alphabetical letter, with the original design being designated by the letter "A". A first revision to the original design would normally be noted with a "B", although sometimes this digit identifies a completely different component, even though the basic part is the same. For instance, different engine displacements and designs. Parts finished in different colors can be identified by their suffix numbers as well. For instance, the Simulated Styled Steel Wheel Covers for a 1969 Ford Thunderbird carry the basic part number C9SZ-1130D, followed by -26B for Brittany Blue color, 13D for Candyapple Red color, etc.
ENGINEERING VS. SERVICE PART NUMBERS

It should be noted that Ford part numbers are divided into two main categories: engineering part numbers and service part numbers. When a part is first designed, engineering assigns it an alphanumeric part number, such as C5SZ-1005-A. If the part is later completely redesigned, a new part number is assigned to it by engineering, to differentiate between the two parts, for instance C8AZ-1007-E. Both are wheel assemblies, but they have very different applications.
When the part is released as a service part, the service part number assigned to the part is likely to initially be the same as the engineering part number. Small revisions that don't affect compatibility - such as a change in suppliers - usually result in the suffix changing on the service part number to indicate the design change level. Service part numbers are normally listed on the packaging the part comes in, whether it be a box, plastic bag, envelope, sleeve, tube, etc. If the part doesn't normally have a package, a label is affixed to the part itself with the service part number. This is why sometimes the part inside the package will have a different suffix showing on it. The part itself bears the original engineering part number, while the box shows the service part number, which represents the different suppliers.
Often the change in design or suppliers (reflected by the alpha character suffix) is to address a reliability or quality issue. So, if you could choose between identical parts, one with an "A" suffix and the other with a "B" suffix, the "B" is usually the best choice. While parts marked with "B" or a suffix that indicates a change would normally fit and work the same as the same part with an "A" suffix, you can't always replace a "B" or "C" suffix part with an "A" part, even though they are basically the same. This could be due to the other components around this part not being compatible with the original "A" suffix part.
Boxed kits sold to dealers may have multiple part numbers on the various components inside the box, and the number on the box itself will be completely different than that of any parts inside the box.
The easiest way to discern if a part is a factory original or service replacement part is to check the fourth digit of the part number. If it's a "Z" it is a Ford Service Replacement part, indicating it has been changed in service during the life of the vehicle.

 

HEY WHITEBOY, WHAT THE HELL IS YOUR PROBLEM?!! i'M NOT STUPID PAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I do know my way around engines very well thank you, it's just nice to have a second opinon, AND SOME GOOD ADVICE!!!!!!!! If you can't prvide knowlegable advice to my threads, then stay @###@ away!!!!!!!!!!! these people that have responded to the questions i've asked, have given me nothing but honest,knowlegable, and good advice and opinons. making sure i get all the info i can possibly get before i tackle something, doesn't make me stupid. SO WHATEVER YOUR POINONS YOU HAVE, KEEP THEM TO YOURSELF. I DON'T NEED THEM.

JUST SO YOU KNOW, AND I DON'T CARE IF YOU CARE, BUT I BUILT MY FIRST ENGINE WHEN I WAS JUST 11 YEARS OLD!!!!! IT WAS MY DAD'S TRUCK, A 318 DODGE ENGINE. IT FIRED RIGHT UP WITH THE FIRST TURN OF THE KEY, AND IT LASTED UNTIL THE TRUCK WORE OUT. JUST SO YOU KNOW THAT I KNOW WHAT I'M DOING WHEN IT COMES TO ENGINES!!! T.C.M.

 

Thanks Mike, I see that at least some people here have a sence of understanding. Unlike WhiteBoy. Anyway as for the the info you provided, thanks. This will be very helpful once i get this engine clean enough to the point where i can see these numbers. this engine is in a mess since the head gasket blew. There were times that when i would go out to the truck to check the oil, the dipstick would be frozen in, and the oil cap would have ice build up on it. not good for the engine. After i removed the head, ('' still waiting to here from the machine shop on the fate of the head'') but before i took this to the shop, i noticed that the gaskets i had bought, would not line up. I tried several types and years, I come close but not a perfect match. either it would line up with the head and not the block, or the block and not the head. so now i have the head at the machine shop to see if there may be something i'm missing when i try to line the gasket up. it was in a big mess so maybe one of the ports may be sealed over and i didn't notice it. I'll know more when he cleans and machines it. if it's not cracked or anything like that.
but anyway thank you very much for the info, it will be put to good use. T.C.M.

 

Yeah don't "Lincoln lock" (weld) your rear end on the street, you'll HATE it. The Traction-Lok helps some, but it ain't as good as a full locker since it does allow some slippage despite it's name, it's just a limited slip unit. You can pick up an Aussie Locker for a reasonable price. I don't own one but do plan on installing one eventually... I've heard mostly good about them and I'm tired of my limited slip. Even thought about changing the oil and not putting the additive in so it grabs better... and then using just enough to make it behave on the street.

Note that with an auto locker like this, it will drive differently on the street. Like I said, just showing you another option, I don't own one so I can't tell you exactly how it behaves.

Check it out:

Home page - Aussie Lockers - Welcome to Torq Masters Home of the Aussie Locker

 

Thanks Dixie, i've searched a few sites for a posi diff, my truck is 2wd, with a stupid open axle. if i said that right. My buddy who has a truck same as mine, only with posi rear diff 2wd, pulls around me everytime i get stck on the same hill. so i either outdo him by putting a posi diff in mine, or just turn the darn thing into 4wd. i've seem traction lock diffs with a S sping and different setups, but they say the newer Ssping setup is a lot stronger. but i'm going with your advice and look up this othe one just to be safe. Thaks again for your help. T.C.M.

 

Dude, calm down. It was a joke based on the small spelling error/typo in your thread title. You MEANT to say 'engines woes', not 'engine whoas'. That's all.

Mike

 

I for one thought it was funny. When I clicked it I was expecting a thread about engine mods that make you go "Whoa".

 

again guys i'm sorry, but i've been put down one too many times. i guess with all the stress of my engine failing, finding out that the dam parts don't match, and before it finally quit the dam rear end started giving me trouble. watching someone with the same truck pull pass you when your stuck on a hill and laughing in your face, kinda rotted me. please accept my apology. i didn't even catch on the the spelling error. guys i know this is a forum where u seekvice and answers for your truck and all, but i live just 2hours from my dad and i haven't seen him since last October. because my truck decided to quit on me. I lost my mom to CANCER 5 years ago, she only lived 5 days after they found the CANCER, and she died in my arms. so please guys don't take it personal, i don't mean to freak, but this truck is wearing on my last nerve. I think once i find out from the machine shop on the fate of the cylinder head, if it's cracked or he can't tell me why the head doesn't match, i think i'll blow the dam thing up!!! and return the parts i have for it.again i'm very sorry. T.C.M.

 

I think you need to focus and worry about one thing at a time. First thing is get the engine running right then worry about the rear end.

 

Thanks guys, I am working on the engine . but right now i'm at a stand still waiting for the results from the machine shop, to tell me whether or not it's reuseable or not, and if he can tell me if there is some reason why the gaskets don't line up. when i gave him the cylinder head and explained what trouble i was having, he told me first he had to clean and inspect it. by the way he was explaing things, it seemes like there might be a port or 2 sealed off and i'm not noticing it. if that's not the issue then i might have to look for another head once i get the casting numbers off the block. I've teied to find a site where it would explain the difference between air injection in the head '' IE smog tubes '' or air in the manifold. but i haven't found anything. this is the only thing i can think of for the parts not matching up. I'll have to wait and see what the machine shop has to say i guess. anyway thanks again for your advice. T.C.M.

 

Is this the same head that came off the truck or a different one? If it's the same head and it was working before, then maybe you had the gasket flipped?

From what I understand, is there are really no difference in the heads other than the air in the head castings are thinner and are crack prone. If you use a head with air and your truck is hooked in at the manifold just plug the air port in the head. If you have an older head that has no air port then you'll have to make sure your smog tubes are hooked to the manifold. From what I've been told is that the bolt pattern, oil passages and coolant passages are the same. I don't know if it's really true, but this is what I've been told. I had the ford dealer parts counter guy tell me that from 1987 to 2006 that the head carries the same part number also. Like I said this is just info passed to me, I don't know if it's true.

 

well someone has gotten their facts mixed up cause the IN LINE 6 engine was discontinued in 96. Ford doesn't make the inline 6 anymore, quite a shame if u ask me. those darn engines are just about bullet proof. I used my truck right up until about a month ago with a blown gasket. My chevy Astro only lasted a week before it compleatly locked up when the head gasket went. As for having the gasket flipped, no dice. I've tried it both ways and other brands of gaskets, all with same results. there's some little thing that's not adding up. when i place the gasket on the block, it matches perfect, but when i do the same for the head, 1 or more of the coolant ports are blocked. this is why i'm having the machine shop check it out, cause there may be something blocking the ports that i'm not seeing. i've checked through several years for this type of engine, and most all have the same part number. even the carburetor types look the same. so there must be some little thing that i'm overlooking. i'll have to go to the machine shop and see if there has been any progress made, maybe i'll find the answer to this mystery. Thanks for the info and advice. T.C.M.

 

when i place the gasket on the block, it matches perfect, but when i do the same for the head, 1 or more of the coolant ports are blocked

Cut the area of the gasket blocking any port/s and put the head you have back on.

Sounds like they are all there in the head but only necessary if the head has those matching passageway/s, if not no need/point in removing the area/s of the gasket.

 

that was my next option, i was going to ask if it would be possible to modify the gasket. all the existing ports in the gasket line up with the block but not the head. Just taking a wild guess here, but i guess whoever repaired this engine before, must not have noticed this, and maybe this is why it blew out again. maybe the reason why it wouldn't circulate right either. would this also cause the hoses to be extra tight when the engine was running? now i have to find my old gasket and see if it's the same as the new one. when this head is finished and those ports are exposed, i'll be sure to modify the gasket so that it won't be blocked, maybe solve this problem once and for all. thank you very much for this great info and advice, this helps a whole lot. now all i need is some good news on the head, in that there be no cracks or magor problems. T.C.M.

 

Hey guys and of course gals, i hope this give you a better idea of what i'm up against. If you to my album you find three pics of what i uploaded from a few sites i've searched up. When you view these pics you will get a better understanding of what i'm trying to explain about the head gasket not matching both parts. comparing these pics with my engine, it seems like someone just slapped a bunch of parts together to my a engine and hoped for the best that it would work. now i'm left to untangle this mess. so if someone could please take the time and look at these pics and give me an idea or opinon,or advice of what my options are, would be great. in my mind i don't think this is going to work out wit the 2 different parts. by looking at theses pics, do you think this was the cause of the gasket failure? i don't understand how the system could circulate with those pots sealed up. maybe i'm looking at it wrong, thanks for your time and advice on this matter. T.C.M.