I am to the point of getting this rig on the road, but there is one issue I can't seem to figure out. After the motor gets warm and is running good, if you turn it off, it will not crank over like it did when it was cold. It is as if the battery is dead but it is not cause I got a new one today. It just won't spin fast enough to start and eventually stops.

So process of elimination:

Solinoid - New
Battery Cables - New
Starter - New

The motor is a 351w that the previous owner said was fresh and after seeing the carbon build up on the back of the intake valves, I knew it was about as fresh as a camels a$$. BUT my goal was to get a few months out of it and rebuild or replace it anyway. When it is cold and it gets started, after it warms up it runs pretty dog gone good. It is as though the heat is swelling up the motor and it is locking down.

I will be looking forward to hearing your ideas on what could be causing this.

 

What are the oil and water temps? The reason I ask is that the internal tolerances could be really tight and parts are expanding to the point where it "seizes" until the parts cool down (and shrink).

 

1) Check ignition timing. 6 degrees advance works fine. Much more will cause a kickback on starting.
2) Check charging voltage at the battery terminals at fast idle. You should see something in excess of 14 volts. Your new battery may not be getting fully charged. Maybe throw a charger on it overnight and see if that helps.

 

check your timing , too advanced and it will crank real slow when hot but be fine cold

 

Don't know the oil temp. Water is at 180. What you describe is what it seems like it is doing.

 

I thought this to be a possibility. If I back off the advance it still does it.

 

1. I don't have a timing light. I used the vacuum method to tune it. I will see if I can get one from O'reily's

2. Running a G3 alt. It is charging 14.5 volts at idle.

 

You should buy a timing light or have a buddy check it for you.
It sounds like you are charging and not overheating as Hio suggested.
I do not want to insult you but are you sure that all the connections to the new starter and cabling were well scuffed up and securely tightened? A small amount of resistance will kill you on the starting circuit.

 

I am going to check the timing but when it won't make a 1/4 turn after stopping it. I certainly don't take anything as an insult. The cables that were on there were replace for that very reason. Small stuff counts too.

 

Way back in 1963 on the 390 starter started locking up after about 20-25 minutes of run time, so figured it would cool enough while eating.
But no, I found the out hard way while on a date and needed to get her home and get it started right away.

I had fender well headers then and new, I wasn't over heating the starter from them..

So, I got some ice water from a "car Hop" and poured in on the starter housing to cool it down the best I could for a few minutes, The tried the key an it starter 'Bingo' the next day replaced it the starter..

The brass shaft bushing were binding up when it got warm..

Also the newer vehicles use smaller battery cables so make sure your using the correct size cables.
orich

 

Wow! That was shear genius to figure that one out!

I am going to do a test this morning. I am going to use a wrench on the crank shaft to get some idea of the resistance of turning it by hand. Then I am going to run it for 20 to 30 minutes shut it off and do that again to see if there is a difference. I suspect I will not like the result of this test.

If it isn't much different, I will douse the horny starter with ice cold water.

 

Yea maybe put a rag on the starter to get cooled faster keep the hose water low flow but enough to cool it down with out any going inside the starter itself.. orich

 

WINNER, WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!!

Thanks all for your help! The issue was traced down to the starter. The crank had no more resistance warm than it did cold, all the connections checked out, voltage was good and last item was to check out the new starter I bought in September that I have used maybe a dozen times. We pulled it out and it wasn't centered in the nose cone. When I got it to O'Reily's it was straight? :hmm: Started pushing and shoving and it was all over the place. They pulled out another remanufactured unit that looked to be from the first redneck off road adventure (it was beat to he# and repainted) but the nose cone looked to be old school. Plug it in and it spins like a champ.

I will chalk all of this up to being my fault. I simple believe if it is new, its not worth reviewing. I will feel differently next time.

ORICH - I never though someones "hot date" in 1963 would be the answer to one of my mechanical quandaries. I owe you one frosti beverage sir.

 

I've had bad luck with over the counter starters and alternators for years. Whenever I can wait the day, I have them rebuilt at our local auto electric shop. He's been batting 1000 with me for 30 years.

 

Cheap rebuilt aftermarket crap like this is even worse now than in history. I call them "Spray and Pray". They get a core, take it apart and fix the IMMEDIATE problem, spray it with paint to look new, and then Pray you sell the vehicle before they have to warranty it. Always go with the BEST available. Including Genuine Ford if you can. In the 37 years I've been selling Ford Parts at various dealers I can't tell you how many dozens of times I've sold a starter,alternator,ETC. to someone who got tired of warranteeing a Spray and Pray. You get what you pay for.
Sorry you had trouble Pinch.