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Sludge is NOT emulsified coolant in the oil.
Which is what you have.
Sludge is 'mud' made of carbonized oil.
You know you have a head gasket leak.
It is NOT going to go away by itself.
It IS going to get worse the more you drive it.
NO kind of oil treatment is going to help.
Water settles to the bottom of the pan and is the first thing that the pump sucks up into the engine.
(no, water is not a good engine lubricant)
You can change the oil every day.
Bite the bullet and pull the head or just find a good used engine.
Sludge is NOT emulsified coolant in the oil.
Which is what you have.
Sludge is 'mud' made of carbonized oil.
You know you have a head gasket leak.
It is NOT going to go away by itself.
It IS going to get worse the more you drive it.
NO freaking oil treatment is going to help.
Water settles to the bottom of the pan and is the first thing that the pump sucks up into the engine.
(no, water is not a good engine lubricant)
You can change the oil every day.
Bite the bullet and pull the head or just find a good used engine.
wow i learn about new products everytime i come on here. like i said before you get bad advice, you get bad results. ever since i discovered this sludge build up, i was told about a product i think from Duralube called sludge away. it also adds to your oil and suppose to clean your engine as you drive, but after 2 months of using this and countless oil changes, i've yet to see a clean dipstick. as a matter of fact, i recall one oil change the sludge was so thick that i had to stick screwdriver in the drain plug hole just to get the oil to come out. now i'm not sure this the result of the product i was using and it just forsed the sludge to the oil pan.
this product u speak of, will it push the sludge down to the oil pan? or will it break it down and be disgaurded thriugh the exhaust? also if i use this product i shouldn't have to remove the oil pan to clean the oil pump right? or would you still recomend it just to be sure? if this product works as good as u say it do, it would be a life saver. cause i ran into a major problem with my engine. i have a thread posted up about it, so if you wouldn't mind reading it and give me your opinon on would be most welcome thanks. T.C.M.
It is NOT sludge.
No oil treatment is going to stop it.
I hate to be harsh, but you said it overheated in October or November and then go on to state that all the shops are too busy.
Blamed it on a failed fan clutch but are still driving it 4 months later...
The head is likely warped or cracked.
Then you tried some stop leak.
Blue Devil may seal a water to cylinder leak but will never seal water to oil.
Radiator sealer is not going to work inside an engine either.
You really needs to do the leak down test the machine shop recommended.
Not some simple compression test.
Or open it up and pressurize the coolant system.
See everywhere that the water is coming out.
But now the fan and water pump is off.
So, too late for that...
Yeah it sucks, but the only way to keep from destroying the engine further is to pull the head.
Have it crack checked and then planed, if it passes and is only warped.
If the block itself is flame cut, it is an anchor.
But that usually only happens with a leak between cylinders.
Hopefully the bearings and cylinders are not completely scored by now.
You can drive a long way with bad oil pressure but you can't drive long with water in your oil.
Everything rusts up, acids are formed and that eat holes in things.
Conanski seems cheerful.
He's one of the best on this forum.
I'd take his advice.
wow i learn about new products everytime i come on here. like i said before you get bad advice, you get bad results. ever since i discovered this sludge build up, i was told about a product i think from Duralube called sludge away. it also adds to your oil and suppose to clean your engine as you drive, but after 2 months of using this and countless oil changes, i've yet to see a clean dipstick. as a matter of fact, i recall one oil change the sludge was so thick that i had to stick screwdriver in the drain plug hole just to get the oil to come out. now i'm not sure this the result of the product i was using and it just forsed the sludge to the oil pan.
this product u speak of, will it push the sludge down to the oil pan? or will it break it down and be disgaurded thriugh the exhaust? also if i use this product i shouldn't have to remove the oil pan to clean the oil pump right? or would you still recomend it just to be sure? if this product works as good as u say it do, it would be a life saver. cause i ran into a major problem with my engine. i have a thread posted up about it, so if you wouldn't mind reading it and give me your opinon on would be most welcome thanks. T.C.M.
With the money you've spent on oil and magic products for the engine would have gone a long way towards having this repaired already. Either book time for a shop to do it or buy some thermal underwear and some gloves and get at it. Pulling the head off an inline six is not too bad of a job to do.
I realize it's cold but i see people in Alberta doing stuff like this outside in winter so it's not unbearable to do. Worst case scenario just quit driving the truck until you can afford to fix it or you won't have a fixable truck much longer.
wow i learn about new products everytime i come on here. like i said before you get bad advice, you get bad results. ever since i discovered this sludge build up, i was told about a product i think from Duralube called sludge away. it also adds to your oil and suppose to clean your engine as you drive, but after 2 months of using this and countless oil changes, i've yet to see a clean dipstick. as a matter of fact, i recall one oil change the sludge was so thick that i had to stick screwdriver in the drain plug hole just to get the oil to come out. now i'm not sure this the result of the product i was using and it just forsed the sludge to the oil pan.
this product u speak of, will it push the sludge down to the oil pan? or will it break it down and be disgaurded thriugh the exhaust? also if i use this product i shouldn't have to remove the oil pan to clean the oil pump right? or would you still recomend it just to be sure? if this product works as good as u say it do, it would be a life saver. cause i ran into a major problem with my engine. i have a thread posted up about it, so if you wouldn't mind reading it and give me your opinon on would be most welcome thanks. T.C.M.
I did not know the extent build up. Your not going to find a miracle cure for sludge that heavy in your engine. You can change the oil, and cleanse it, I don't care how many times. If you don't stop the source of the problem, your wasting your time and money.You need to do what the other gentleman said and repair you head gasket, and, if needed, the head. You also need to pull the oil pan, replace your oil pump, and clean the pick up tube and screen. Then after you reassemble it. You still need to clean it, the way I mentioned earlier. Sea Foam is very good stuff. Google it. You will find all the information you need to know. But, nothing is going to "push" sludge, but elbow grease.
I read the 6 liter tuneup save your money on the coil, the msd is a copy of the stock Ford coil.Also any coil will only put out the amount needed to jump the plug gap electricity is lazy.A coil may be capable of making 65,000 volts but if it only takes 10,000 to jump the cap that is what it will produce.
I also agree with fix your head gasket before you do major damage to your engine.
Like the others have said FIX THAT HEAD GASKET!!! That the source of the issue's your having in the first place really, fix the head and anything else that might need fixing along the way, clean out the engine and go from there. If worst comes to worse and after you clean out all that gunk out of the bottom of the engine and she starts knocking then you might need a new set of bearing unless you wanna run thick as hell oil in there and hope for it to last a while. Thats my best advice as of right now.
thanks to all of your advice, but i have to make a few things clear. the first thing is what ArdwrknTrk said and that is when i menchioned about when my problem first started back in october. at that time it '' DID NOT OVERHEAT '' i just lost haet in the cab. also the fan clutch hasn't been working correctly, but it still worked up untill now. that's when the water pump gave out and i haven't been running my engine without a fan for 4 months, it was still there. then there's the fact of the compression testing, if read correctly, you have noticed that it was the machinist who recomended the compression test to determin what cylnder was out and to check if the compression dropped fast or slow to tell if it was a head gasket for sure. it was then i turned to the people of this to clearify this, cause i didn't think a compression test had anything to do with finding a blown head gasket. as far as sludge goes, weather it's white or black it's stil sludge.
the other thing i want to point out, is the new thread i posted up today. that was about finding out that the engine has been changed in my truck at some point and now i have to find out what year this engine is. if the clutch fan wouldn't fit on the new water pump, then all the other parts i have isn't gonna fit either. so before i can go forward with any repair i need to find out what year of engine i'm dealing with. i asked if anyone could help me on this matter. the new pump carries a 31mm coupler and the clutch fan from ny engine is a 30mm from a older engine. i know this cause at the parts shop this 31mm goes from 93 on to 96, but as far as finding out how far back this engine goes, i couldn't find anything. if i can't figure this out, i'm gonna have to cut my loses and find an engine that matches the year of my truck. so when i go to get parts i won't be guessing. so again if any one can help me figure out the year of this engine would be great thanks T.C.M.
thanks to all of your advice, but i have to make a few things clear. the first thing is what ArdwrknTrk said and that is when i menchioned about when my problem first started back in october. at that time it '' DID NOT OVERHEAT '' i just lost haet in the cab. also the fan clutch hasn't been working correctly, but it still worked up untill now. that's when the water pump gave out and i haven't been running my engine without a fan for 4 months, it was still there. then there's the fact of the compression testing, if read correctly, you have noticed that it was the machinist who recomended the compression test to determin what cylnder was out and to check if the compression dropped fast or slow to tell if it was a head gasket for sure. it was then i turned to the people of this to clearify this, cause i didn't think a compression test had anything to do with finding a blown head gasket. as far as sludge goes, weather it's white or black it's stil sludge.
the other thing i want to point out, is the new thread i posted up today. that was about finding out that the engine has been changed in my truck at some point and now i have to find out what year this engine is. if the clutch fan wouldn't fit on the new water pump, then all the other parts i have isn't gonna fit either. so before i can go forward with any repair i need to find out what year of engine i'm dealing with. i asked if anyone could help me on this matter. the new pump carries a 31mm coupler and the clutch fan from ny engine is a 30mm from a older engine. i know this cause at the parts shop this 31mm goes from 93 on to 96, but as far as finding out how far back this engine goes, i couldn't find anything. if i can't figure this out, i'm gonna have to cut my loses and find an engine that matches the year of my truck. so when i go to get parts i won't be guessing. so again if any one can help me figure out the year of this engine would be great thanks T.C.M.
Well regarding that fan you could either A find a 31mm fan from a newer truck to fit the pump or you could swap out your water pump at the store for a older one that is 30mm like the fan is. Or if you can't do either one get a guy in a machine shop to mod the fans bolt holes to make them silted out enough to fit the 31mm pump. I remember doing the same thing this summer with an old fan from a 351 to get my truck though the summer without overheating when the A/C sorta worked for a while. (compressor took a dive long ago and its not worth the money to fix if you ask me) but back to the topic at hand. That's my ideas and how I would go about it and if I mixed up the sizes or got them backwards from the fan to the pump I'm sorry.
Also these engines have been around a while so if push comes to shove and you end up taking the pump back and swapping it out ask for a water pump from anything 93 or lower and see if its the same as what you need and if its got the smaller size that you need for it to fit your fan to it. Good luck man let me know what you find out.
A friend of mine went through this six months ago... there are two listings for that clutch for the same year engine. He ended up going to Ford and getting them to order it, no issues.
Now you can continue on to fix your engine first then put a water pump on.