Ever try some chalk blocks? I used them quiet often to help.

 

I was mailed an itemized receipt with the bill. The shockers were upper and lower ball joints were $440, and the rear axle backer plates were $240/pair

 

Chalk blocks would be a good idea. I have blocked the truck on the hill when the brake first went out. It takes two guys to remove them though. You have to back the pressure off the block to remove it. Thanks for the thought.

 

in NYC it would not be a high bill. the math in NYC is simple....use list price for parts...double taht number...then use that number for labor. so 300 in parts at autozone would be 600 in parts at joe's magic shop and the labor rate would be 600. so 300 in parts is a 1200 bill. sometimes I byte the bullet and let the shop do the work especially if there's a foot of snow on the ground....but then I get irrated when I see proseal on all the drive train cases when they could have used the correct gasket. So joe's magic shop will over charge and not do it correctly.

 

If it makes you feel any better I had uppers and lowers done on a Jeep Wagoneer, which cost almost $300, and I pulled the front end apart and hand delivered the outter knuckles to the shop.

I'm assuming you drove yours in and just dropped it off correct? With all the parts you had replaced I don't know that they are that far out of the ball park.

 

My local guy that I do trust said $900.00 for ball joints
including the parts and alignment.

Os I think maybe a tad high on the pricing.

Sean

BTW it's a 4X4

 

You mentioned doing a bunch of Ag biz with them. Were it me I'd talk to the Chief and make sure he understands that business can go elsewhere and that you expected based on previos business that you'd have been take care of better than you were.

 

The only reason I would be hesitant about this is labor was only 9 or 10 hours for 900$. My brake rotors and pads were 750$ alone. Plus all 4 calipers at 100 to 150 each. I don't think this is all that far off depending on what the guy can get parts for.

Based on the ag stuff he might be an ag shop and not be able to get the absolute cheapest rate for truck parts. I mean that some might be a reason to get work done else where but its not entirely the shops fault.

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We have to replace the ebrake cables in our trucks every 5 years or so because like the OP we have manuals and use the brake all the time. The trucks need to run so no parking in 1st or reverse either. Fords ebrake systems since forever has been just plain junk and I seriously hate it! Hard to use wheel chocks when you step out of the truck to put the chocks under the wheels and the truck rolls away.

I haven't yet but I have been very very tempted to instal a line lock on the hydraulic brakes for parking.


As for the bill, there is allot of work there that was done. Axles were pulled to replace backing plates, front axles were pulled to replace seals, ball joints is a time consuming job, if the brake job was done right not some back yard slap together job it takes quite some time as well. I would say the bill is close to right, might be a touch high especially for a low mile truck but not totally blown out of proportion I would say.

 

I have to agree with Andy, there was a lot of work done. 9 hours labor isn't unreasonable, and parts are always sold at a higher rate than they get them for. Had you been the type to do the work yourself you could have probably saved a good $1,500.

 

Same here. I have had to replace the e brake on my bronco, van and my sister's car all in the past year. I had to replace all of the brake lines on my super duty last year(rusted through) and I am doing all the lines on the van next before they fail.

 

Chris is right, you have a lot more leverage in negotiations about a bill prior to paying.

Like Chris said but with a twist:

Since you have already paid, make a phone call (or if convenient personally visit) the manager/owner of the shop let him know how much business you have done in the past and how much he can expect in the future. Tell him you were surprised by the total and it was not what you were expecting.

What he says next will determine which way the conversation will go.

More than likely he will offer a discount on future service(s). It's very probable that his techs are paid on commission and it's not their fault that a billing issue occurred and he does not want to charge back the techs after the fact.

If he is not reasonable then find another shop.

FWIW, like Justin, Andy and Tom wrote it is not that far out of line. Maybe a tad high, depends on your area. You were just surprised.

If the manager/supervisor/owner is a complete jerk, then you don't want to do business with him anymore.

 

I also agree that the price isn't out of line that much. People get their panties in a twist because a shop charges a good amount for work. First, a fully equipped shop isn't cheap, neither is electricity, heat, blah blah blah. Labor, especially if not your own, is not cheap.

I had to do the brakes on my truck and being in the salt belt required more BFH (big f'in hammer) work to get the parts apart. My dually requires axle shaft removal for the rears. Needed two calipers, bleed brakes, check, bleed, check, etc... Took a couple of days. I don't have the bill in front of me and I took advantage of the online offers from Advance Auto and saved nearly $200 on parts. But the total is still up there and this doesn't include ball joints and the labor for them. They can be quite stubborn in rust belt areas. Don't expect to get a discount on parts, ever, from a shop doing work.

When I pay someone to do work for me I have it done for a few reasons.

Can't do it myself (lack of knowledge or expensive tools) - both of these cost money so there is a price tag associated with it so I'm at the mercy of a shop. I also choose the shop I've heard great things about. Rarely do those come cheap

Don't have the time - someone's time is worth money and it's not their problem I don't have the time to save me some money.

Don't want to - being lazy so it's going to cost me and at that point I may not care what it cost, just get it done!!


Sorry to sound like a jerk but I run a business and it costs money to do so. If you don't like the bill, do it yourself.....

 

Where are you's getting a 800 dollar parts bill for front roots and a set of front pads? My local Ford dealer is high an the front pads are $118 and front rotor is $160 I believe..... And I'm no Ford tech ( that training is a joke by the way) but I can install front rotors and pads completely degrease the front knuckles, clean an grease the slid pins, spray backing plate glue on the pads put it back together the proper way everything torqued to spec in my garage using two three ton Floor jacks in about 60-70 minutes

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I installed ball joints on my F350 for the first time wet doing it, with all new axle seals, greased the OEM unit bearing cleaned everything up hit the axle with black paint all within one Saturday again working in my garage using two three ton floor jacks. Any full time everyday mechanic or dealer who says they can't do it in under one full day is just padding the bill, nothing more. Ever sit at a shop and watch the workers? They bull crap more than old hens and goof around more than teenage boys

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