1996 XL build thread
#1
1996 XL build thread
Well I just purchased a 1996 ford f150 xl long bed 4.9 inline six for $1700 for a project truck/fishing truck. Been waiting +6 years to get a project. Couldn't find. 302 or 351 that wasn't rusted out down here in Florida. Thought the inline six would be an interesting project. After seeing my friends 88 mustang lx get a turbo 2.3 swap and manual trans swap. This is my first inline 6 and I'm pretty impressed so far. The truck has 182000 miles on it but everything works. Including the dual tanks. Is there anything I should look out for?
I currently have a 2007 honda civic si sedan for my daily driver. The ford will be an ongoing restomod project. I've started a list to slowly complete as I get time and money. Any suggestions are welcome. I know very little about the 4.9. Enlighten me
to do list
Spark plugs/wires
Engine flush
Complete fluid swap on everything
Electric radiator fan if possible
4-6" lift
33-35" tires
New steel wheels
Paint
Seat swap?
Center console
Door speakers
Headliner
Front bumper with winch
Fog and flood lights
Switch panel
Replace turn signal clicker
Fix crooked steering wheel and get alignment
Replace exhaust.
Undercoat or por15.
Over cab lights or lighted visor
Replace broken vent visors
Tighten up play in steering
Brakes
Gears
Lockers?
Bed lights
Much of the little things will be taken care of by the end of the month as taxes come in. Along with possibly lift and tires. I'm torn between 4" lift with 33s and 6" lift with 33s until I regear then 35s. Stock gears are 3.08 non posi. I'll get better pictures when I get a chance
I currently have a 2007 honda civic si sedan for my daily driver. The ford will be an ongoing restomod project. I've started a list to slowly complete as I get time and money. Any suggestions are welcome. I know very little about the 4.9. Enlighten me
to do list
Spark plugs/wires
Engine flush
Complete fluid swap on everything
Electric radiator fan if possible
4-6" lift
33-35" tires
New steel wheels
Paint
Seat swap?
Center console
Door speakers
Headliner
Front bumper with winch
Fog and flood lights
Switch panel
Replace turn signal clicker
Fix crooked steering wheel and get alignment
Replace exhaust.
Undercoat or por15.
Over cab lights or lighted visor
Replace broken vent visors
Tighten up play in steering
Brakes
Gears
Lockers?
Bed lights
Much of the little things will be taken care of by the end of the month as taxes come in. Along with possibly lift and tires. I'm torn between 4" lift with 33s and 6" lift with 33s until I regear then 35s. Stock gears are 3.08 non posi. I'll get better pictures when I get a chance
#4
Your stock gears are too high for even 33s. I'd suggest a minimum of 3.73:1. 4.10:1 would be even better, especially if you're going with 35s.
The 300/4.9 is a good engine. It has fantastic low-end torque, but lacks power as you go up through the gears. (My '91 had the 4.9, and it wouldn't get out of its own way in fifth gear.) They're pretty reliable and durable, so you should still see a lot of mileage out of your engine yet. If you're willing to do some digging, and your state/local government aren't too strict, you might be able to find some performance parts for your injected 4.9.
And might I ask what's wrong with your existing seat?
The 300/4.9 is a good engine. It has fantastic low-end torque, but lacks power as you go up through the gears. (My '91 had the 4.9, and it wouldn't get out of its own way in fifth gear.) They're pretty reliable and durable, so you should still see a lot of mileage out of your engine yet. If you're willing to do some digging, and your state/local government aren't too strict, you might be able to find some performance parts for your injected 4.9.
And might I ask what's wrong with your existing seat?
#5
Congrats! Nice truck you located...could be the foundation for a really nice ride - within reason.
x2 on the priority shift toward gearing. You didn't mention what tranny you have (auto vs. real transmission), but your drivability will seriously suffer if you go to even 33's with those 3.08 gears. If you have the 5spd and want to go bigger than 33 (not necessarily a great plan with stock axles) you might want to even consider 4.56 gears.
What I meant by "within reason" is that drivetrain mods are cumulative and will snowball on you. If you can live with 33" tires, a 3.73 or 4.11 gear set in your stock axles, and some mild tweaks to the 4.9, you likely have a very stable truck that will provide many years and another 100K. Seriously, the 300 six was running 150K miles before a rebuild 30 years ago...yours is just broken in.
If you start pushing beyond those parameters, the whole package then becomes an exercise in eliminating the next weakest link.
Anyway, that's my advice...others will have their ideas as well. Most of all, make the truck yours and enjoy it!
x2 on the priority shift toward gearing. You didn't mention what tranny you have (auto vs. real transmission), but your drivability will seriously suffer if you go to even 33's with those 3.08 gears. If you have the 5spd and want to go bigger than 33 (not necessarily a great plan with stock axles) you might want to even consider 4.56 gears.
What I meant by "within reason" is that drivetrain mods are cumulative and will snowball on you. If you can live with 33" tires, a 3.73 or 4.11 gear set in your stock axles, and some mild tweaks to the 4.9, you likely have a very stable truck that will provide many years and another 100K. Seriously, the 300 six was running 150K miles before a rebuild 30 years ago...yours is just broken in.
If you start pushing beyond those parameters, the whole package then becomes an exercise in eliminating the next weakest link.
Anyway, that's my advice...others will have their ideas as well. Most of all, make the truck yours and enjoy it!
#6
He truck came with 31x10.50 on it. And runs pretty decent down the road. Guess I could just get a nice set of all terrains the same size since I'm not the mud bogging type. The main reason for the 33x12.50 was for a wider tire for sand. The truck will be mostly for fishing and some camping. It has a manual transmission that shifts pretty decent and I don't have to push the clutch very deep to engage it. As far as performance mods here in Florida there are no smog or emission checks that I've encountered. But I'm military so I'll more then likely be in a state with strict smogs controls in the future. As far as the seat goes I had an Eddie Bauer edition bronco and I loved the seats and center console. But if I can find a decent console for the bench then I'll just clean it up and call it a day. The original plan was 4 inch lift and 33s when i can afford gears but I don't see that happening anytime soon. So might cut it short and go with a nice stock size all terrain,tune up. Exhaust and get it ready for fishing season. Tmw I'm planning on topping it off with 93 octane ethanol free and fuel system cleaner to clean out the system some. Was going with a full seafoam treatment(fuel,crankcase,vacuum line) before I change the oil. And begin he tuneup but I'm a bit skeptical when it comes to the seafoam. Would 32s be too much stress for the 4.9 with out gears? The reason I'm doing exhaust by he way is because it's the only part rusted on the entire truck besides a bit of surface rust on the frame ends and driveshaft. Also debating a headache rack. I saw a restore bullnose f250 today with one that really caught my eye today.
#7
Here's a few more pics. Debating on the 32s or 31s. Hopefully get some time to scrub it down and stock up on tuneup supplies. Ran one bottle of Lucas oil fuel system cleaner split between both tanks then drove 8 miles two work on the fwd tank 8 miles back on the rear. Seem good to go gauge adjusted and didn't shutoff on me. Also I filled it up with ethanol free. Going to seafoam the crankcase and vacuum system one Thursday then do the spark plugs and oil that Saturday. Anyone have any suggestions on what should get done first. Definitely getting rotors. Pads. Tires and wheel bearing while I do the rotors. Along with a coolant flush. I've had a few people tell me not to flush it because I might break some rust loose and clog something up. Any thoughts?might attempt to shampoo th seat and scrub the floor this weekend to get the hint of smoke out. But I have a feeling the carpet dash cover might be the source
The good side.
The interior
The wheels need some cleaning. Hope SOS pads and Polish will work
The good side.
The interior
The wheels need some cleaning. Hope SOS pads and Polish will work
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#11
I always look first for things that could either be a safety hazard or quickly cause damage if they go south. If you need pads/rotors/shoes/drums, do that first while freshening the bearings or grease. Then you won't have to worry about those for a looong time.
I personally think the threat of radiator flush breaking loose things is hogwash. Of course it might loosen crud - what's the purpose of the flush? The flush can only break loose stuff that's already there, and could already break loose and plug something up. At least, for a while after a flush, if you see a temp spike you'll remember what might going on, and half expect it. Better than having the crud break loose on a 600-mile fishing trip 2 years from now.
Then, for something frivolous, I'd take some bright-aluminum rattlecans to those rims (properly prepped/sanded, of course)...for $10-20, it will be the biggest visual improvement you can make.
I personally think the threat of radiator flush breaking loose things is hogwash. Of course it might loosen crud - what's the purpose of the flush? The flush can only break loose stuff that's already there, and could already break loose and plug something up. At least, for a while after a flush, if you see a temp spike you'll remember what might going on, and half expect it. Better than having the crud break loose on a 600-mile fishing trip 2 years from now.
Then, for something frivolous, I'd take some bright-aluminum rattlecans to those rims (properly prepped/sanded, of course)...for $10-20, it will be the biggest visual improvement you can make.
#12
I agree the flush is gonna happen. Already getting pads and rotors. Getting 31x10.50x15. Goodyear wrangler authorities this time. They are the cheapest and have great reviews. Last time I had general grabbers and they weren't bad. But this isn't my daily so figured a little more aggressive tire would work. As soon as I get those on straight to the alignment shop since my steering wheel drives about 45 degrees to he right. Already have the stuff to sand and clean off the rust. Probably going to rattle can it like you said. . Since I'm already going to paint match the headlight bezels since they are black and the previous owner put a chrome grill on it. Probably going to be flamed but ordering a cherrybomb extreme muffler for duels out the rear with turndowns (maybe on the turndowns)
#14