idle air control valve
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From: abbotsford canada
idle air control valve
im having some idle problems with my 95 302 when the rpm comes down to an idle it drops way down and stalls
i took off the iac and cleaned it wit hsome wd40 and a toothbrush and now when the motor gets up to operating temperature it runs as if it has water in the distributer cap
no codes from the comp either
any ideas
i took off the iac and cleaned it wit hsome wd40 and a toothbrush and now when the motor gets up to operating temperature it runs as if it has water in the distributer cap
no codes from the comp either
any ideas
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
idle air control valve
Should have cleaned it with carb cleaner. Can try that.
If you have a haynes manual it says how to test it.
Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds
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Check out my Gallery for a look-see.
Justin - One Happy FTE Member
If you have a haynes manual it says how to test it.
Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds
.Check out my Gallery for a look-see.
Justin - One Happy FTE Member
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From: Queen Creek, AZ
idle air control valve
Umm, WD40 is NOT the thing to clean that with! Remember, the whole purpose of the IAC is to allow the engine to take in more or less air depending on idle situations like AC on/off, temp, etc. That means that air going into your engine goes through this valve. If there was any standing WD40 left in there, then it's now in your intake, or has just gummed up the IAC more.
The other thing, did you unplug the battery when you did this? If not, then the computer has not relearned how to drive with the IAC the way it is now compared to just being dry and dirty before.
Personally, as cheap as an IAC is, I'd just replace the thing. It'll save you time down the road, and will help the truck run better now.
The other thing, did you unplug the battery when you did this? If not, then the computer has not relearned how to drive with the IAC the way it is now compared to just being dry and dirty before.
Personally, as cheap as an IAC is, I'd just replace the thing. It'll save you time down the road, and will help the truck run better now.
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From: abbotsford canada
idle air control valve
lol
i didnt think wd40 would be a good thing to use but all i had at the time
i just got back with a new iac and carb cleaner for futer cleaning
i didnt diconect the batery so i will do that now while i install the new one
hope it woks
i didnt think wd40 would be a good thing to use but all i had at the time
i just got back with a new iac and carb cleaner for futer cleaning
i didnt diconect the batery so i will do that now while i install the new one
hope it woks
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From: abbotsford canada
idle air control valve
ok new aic is on and it runs fine again
but
i still have my low idle problem when i take my foot of the gas
the rpm drops way down to the point it will almost stall then it comes back up to 700
im thinking tps sensor
but
i still have my low idle problem when i take my foot of the gas
the rpm drops way down to the point it will almost stall then it comes back up to 700
im thinking tps sensor
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 321
Likes: 2
From: Queen Creek, AZ
idle air control valve
If you had the battery unplugged, did you drive it around a while afterwards to get the computer back into the swing of things? The reason you unplugged the battery is to make the computer forget how it was running before, so when you plug things in again the computer isn't sure how to run except for some fail-safe settings, which could cause it to idle rough and even die. You have to drive it around some before it gets things sorted out again.
If it's something else, yes it could be a TPS sensor. It could also be a faulty EGR or it's sensor, but that would throw some sort of code, though it may have nothing to do directly with the EGR. It could also possibly be the MAF, though you would be experiencing problems throughout the powerband.
Is your truck a manual or auto tranny? When's the last time you checked on your plugs, cap/rotor, plug wires, coil specs? How about the air cleaner?
If it's something else, yes it could be a TPS sensor. It could also be a faulty EGR or it's sensor, but that would throw some sort of code, though it may have nothing to do directly with the EGR. It could also possibly be the MAF, though you would be experiencing problems throughout the powerband.
Is your truck a manual or auto tranny? When's the last time you checked on your plugs, cap/rotor, plug wires, coil specs? How about the air cleaner?
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From: abbotsford canada
idle air control valve
just did the p;ugs cap rotor fueil air filter wires pcv valve
the truck has always had a bad idle problem
its speed density 5 speed
ive always had trouble with the rpm staying high when i shift
so if i shift at 2500 rpm by the time i shift and let the cluthc out it is at about2700 rpm
its annoying
if i bring the rpm up to say 3000 rpm and just push the clutch in and hold it the rpm goes up a few hundred then it will slowly come down
at an idle of 700 rpm if i give it a shot of gas the rpm goes up to whatever and when it comes down it comes down to about 100 rpm sometimes stalls then goes back to 700
i did the starting fluid test for vacum leaks and nothing
no codes on koeo but when i do koer i get a code saying cannot keep rpm in test range or something like that and the rpm is up down up down
im kind of lost now unless it is the tps
in the chiltons manual the testing procedure for the tps is kind of vague i cant make light of what they are asking you to do to test it
the book says with ignition F (IM ASSUMING OFF)_disconect the tp sensor connestor and measure resistance between SIG RTN and tp
what is sig rtn and tp
the truck has always had a bad idle problem
its speed density 5 speed
ive always had trouble with the rpm staying high when i shift
so if i shift at 2500 rpm by the time i shift and let the cluthc out it is at about2700 rpm
its annoying
if i bring the rpm up to say 3000 rpm and just push the clutch in and hold it the rpm goes up a few hundred then it will slowly come down
at an idle of 700 rpm if i give it a shot of gas the rpm goes up to whatever and when it comes down it comes down to about 100 rpm sometimes stalls then goes back to 700
i did the starting fluid test for vacum leaks and nothing
no codes on koeo but when i do koer i get a code saying cannot keep rpm in test range or something like that and the rpm is up down up down
im kind of lost now unless it is the tps
in the chiltons manual the testing procedure for the tps is kind of vague i cant make light of what they are asking you to do to test it
the book says with ignition F (IM ASSUMING OFF)_disconect the tp sensor connestor and measure resistance between SIG RTN and tp
what is sig rtn and tp
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From: LeClaire IA
idle air control valve
sig rtn is signal return and tp is throttle position they are 2 of the wires coming from the sensor. and you need a anolog meter to see the "sweep" of the resistance to see if there is a dead spot.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: LeClaire IA
idle air control valve
the colors are orange green and black right?? if i remember correctly the orange is the signal the green is constant power and black is ground closed throttle should read around 1.5 v
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