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The guy next door has a 2006 F-250 6.0 with around 140. Looks like it had an egr delete and 4" Down pipe. Also, has a 58v FICM.
Said that he had some rough starts in the cold, but once the truck warms up he is fine. However, Thursday he went to get something at a convince store and when he came back truck wouldn't start. He said the truck wasn't quite warmed up when he went in.
ICP wasn't getting over 270 psi. I helped him listen for a leak and without commanding the ipr closed testing through the icp port it sounded like the passengers side was leaking. I told him to replace the old style stand pipe and dummy plugs on that side.
He (despite my advice) was able to start truck with brake clean and drove it for 15 minutes. Right before he pulled back in the truck died again.
I am going to do the stand pipe and dummy plugs for the drivers side but he told me that the truck was charging at 13.8 volts and the FICM went down to 42 V . What voltage should a 58v FICM read and shouldn't batteries charge at around 14.5v?
The stock alternators probably don't do much better than 13.8V.
Personally, I think that you should do both sides - if the dummy plug on the drivers side is leaking, then it is probably going to do so soon on the other side.
Maybe someone else knows specifically about the 58V FICM, but quite frankly ANY FICM that drops to 42V is bad. Where did he get it?
Unless he bought it from BulletProofDiesel, I would not feel comfortable w/ a 58V FICM. That voltage can reduce the reliability ..... unless the unit was truly upgraded to handle it.
Well we did the other side and still not starting unless it sits outside Iin this beautiful 10° weather. Got up to 390 PSI at its highest. Since we weren't really hearing a leak just air moving I tried to pull the IPR. He had a NAPA Gold oil filter and someone's rag??? In the oil housing. The oil filter had started to fall apart and bits of plastic were in the hoising. When we tried to pull the ipr it separatedand now hhalf of it is stuck in the HPOP housing :/ Any ideas on how to get that out without removing the turbo?
I got it out with some chanel locks. Not sure if this went back together tight enough the 1st piece was stuck in the housing the 2nd piece came out. I screwed them back together the best I could. How close should they be? Can I re use this IPR?
I ordered the IPR plug from Accurate diesel so I can pressurize the the system. Apparently you can leave pressure in the system overnight and monitor pressure with the ICP.
IPR valve moved with a little pressure from the spring. Seemed clean inside, small holes in the screen but barely noticiable.
ICP reads around 7 psi after I had been cranking for a while and left the key on and the engine off.
Local lube shop installed this. Same shop that drained the trans instead of the motor and put double the amount of oil in the engine. They left the trans without oil in a brand new subaru. But anyway this is why you use OEM filter!
The hpop intake screen should prevent the debris from entering the hpo system if it is intact.
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Unfortunately those screens have been known to fail - hence the improved design.
Also unfortunately - it sounds like the oil filter may not have been doing its job and it is certainly designed to do a MUCH better job of filtering than the HPOP intake screen (ie 20 micron)!
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