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I am going to change the oil in the next week or so and update and as far as i know the starter and the injectors are all stock and the truck is about to roll 200k
Since injectors cost quite a bit of $$$, I always like ruling out the other variables prior to the big plunge.
So far you said (pleasse correct me if I am wrong):
New Glow Plugs
New GPR
1. Like Jason said above, if you are due for an oil change switch to 5W-40 CJ-4 diesel oil and see if that improves your cold starts, plus this will help diagnose wether or not it is your injectors.
2. Replace the broken fuel bowl heater
3. A compression test (what Clux mentioned above) would be a good idea prior to spending $ on injectors.
and just to verify (although I am now leaning towards the worn poppets) is your starter the original one?
Edit: I just reread this thread and didn't see (unless I missed it) how many miles on the truck?
When you replaced the glow plugs, did you pull the wiring harnesses from both sides of the valve cover gaskets and check for burnt pins on both the connectors and the valve cover gaskets? They can have enough damage to lose contact without any sign of it showing on the outside of the connector.
No i havent unplugged the connectors to check them
You may want to check the resistance. You can do that without removing the valve covers. If you remove the connector from the outside, the glow plug pins are the first two and the last two in the gasket. Just check resistance between the pins and ground. Normal resistance is between 0.6 and 2.0 ohms. I wouldn't be too concerned if any are a little out of that range, but if any are infinite, it would warrant further investigation.
I feel like we all may be chasing rabbits, hard starts VS stalling. I have a friend with a 7.3 allowed his oil to get below the add mark and that produced a stalling problem,(HPOP wasn't able to sustain flow to injectors) we topped it off with Rotella and stalling stopped. I am no where as comfortable as some of the colder weather guys on here to speak to hard starts and oil weights. In Georgia we seldom get weather below 20 degrees so oil weight isn't usually an issue.
Just a personal experience with a buddy's 7.3
Just my 2 cents. It would also be beneficial if you actually tested your GPR. I bought one once that lasted 5 days. Both my trucks now have GPR led. I realize that mod isn't an ironclad guarantee that the GPR is working fully, but it's quick and easy. I'd test with an ohm meter to be sure. The chain parts stores aren't well known for their high quality electronics, i.e., starters, alts., GPR's, etc.
Just my 2 cents. It would also be beneficial if you actually tested your GPR. I bought one once that lasted 5 days. Both my trucks now have GPR led. I realize that mod isn't an ironclad guarantee that the GPR is working fully, but it's quick and easy. I'd test with an ohm meter to be sure. The chain parts stores aren't well known for their high quality electronics, i.e., starters, alts., GPR's, etc.
Yup I would make sure you at least checked this. I just went through a similar situation with mine. My truck wouldn't start at all if it had been sitting for more than a few hours, it was even close to 50* out once and it still didn't start, plugged in or not. It wouldn't even kick over at all and lope like yours does, it sure did put out a lot of white smoke though. I put in a new GPR, and then new glow plugs and batteries and that still didn't work. It ended up that the "new" GPR went bad after only a few days. Put a new one in and all was good. I believe it was from NAPA... Real quality stuff, can't even get a good new part. My truck has been fine since then, it starts fine even in single digit temperatures after sitting over night.
So like others have said I would test and make sure that the whole glow plug system, batteries/cables and starter are all good and in working order, even though they are all relatively new, before jumping to more expensive things like injectors. It'd be a lot easier and cheaper to replace one of those instead of the injectors.
Bielaf, a couple of thoughts: If you do not have time to unplug the harnesses to do a resistance check--if your battery voltage drops a lot (down to around 10 to 10.5 volts)when in KOEO most of your glow plugs are working if you have moderately good batteries. If the GPR is not working, the voltage will not drop as much, because the GP's are not energized. If the UVC connectors are not making contact on some of the GP circuits, the voltage will not drop as much as when they are all working. The voltage reading is just a quick, but not very accurate way to judge if glow plugs are energizing.
On another subject, when you take off for Korea, invest in a maintenance type battery charger. Batteries on vehicles that are not run will start forming a sulfate coating on the plates whenever they are not being charged. I learned this from a forklift battery technician. Good luck and thank you for your service! Larry
When the key is in the run postion the battery volts dorp down to 10 something sorry about not having the exact number was in a hurry earlier..... The only other thing really left to test/replace is the starter and the whole starting and charging system will be brand new as i replaced the alternator mid summer as well.... and retiredsparky thanks for the tip on the batteries i was just going to unhook the neg terminal but i will look into the battery charger for sure...... i am also going to try 5-40 this oil change and see what difference it makes on cold starts and hopefully it will help on my electric bill as well
honestly I would like to thank all you guys for the support here on the forum and for supporting the military and I know that I speak for many of my brother and sisters in arms that if it wasnt for the support of everyone who does support the military service we would have alot harder time getting through things during deployments and redeployments because through my experiences during my deployments getting a care package even from a complete stranger will change your while day from sad, angry, or just having a blah day to a good day and it goes unsaid alot so thank you for your support
with my 97 7.3L it takes about 12-14 sec for it to start on the first try (in heated shop), but wh i turn the engine over for a second, then stop and try agani, it will stat up after about 2-3 seconds of craking, runs perfectly, little bit of smoke when you play with the throtle.
Any Ideas?