Transmission Temperature Sender
#1
01-23-2014, 12:36 PM
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Transmission Temperature Sender
I installed the temperature sender unit provided with the autometer classic style transmission temperature gauge (Autometer 2252) in the drivers side inspection port of the transmission. Went in no problem.
Have not moved truck yet but just read a post where someone posted "caution: some (autometer for example) include temp sending units (Autometer 2258) that are too long with the gauge. Make sure to use a short sending unit (Autometer 2259)".
Its got me nervous about messing up the transmission. Has anyone used the longer sending unit or should I just buy the shorter one?
Have not moved truck yet but just read a post where someone posted "caution: some (autometer for example) include temp sending units (Autometer 2258) that are too long with the gauge. Make sure to use a short sending unit (Autometer 2259)".
Its got me nervous about messing up the transmission. Has anyone used the longer sending unit or should I just buy the shorter one?
#5
01-23-2014, 10:20 PM
Post Fiend
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sounds like you read something like this:
trans cooler routing =
trans line out (front) of trans - into radiator cooler - out of rad into aux cooler - out of aux cooler/line in (rear) of trans.
trans gauge sensor location =
test port.
caution: some (autometer for example) include temp sending units that are too long with the gauge.make sure to use a short sending unit if installing here.
temps seen on gauge w/ temp sensor at the test port would be ideally 170-180 at all times (it reflects the pan temps extremely close.) but it wont be perfect all the time.
150 (once up to operating temp) to 225 (towing heavy uphill) is safe (for 20k mile flush intervals.)
of course adding a larger cooler to keep temps down around 175 at all times would be ideal,but then with a cooler this large comes a con.she won't want to come up to ideal 175 temps either.you want 150 min.so then one would need to install a 180 t-stat to help it out.of course a Texas truck is going to be different than a Alaskan truck,so a t-stat "may" not even be required.i always say temp gauge first and run it how you do for a bit,then you can figure out what to do for aux cooler size and t-stat better,to help get closer to 175F perfection.
here is why.i also shared the same concerns:
E40D test port depth?
don't risk it.go with the shorty:
or just run down to your local hardware store and look for something like a bushing that'll only allow it to go in so far.
trans cooler routing =
trans line out (front) of trans - into radiator cooler - out of rad into aux cooler - out of aux cooler/line in (rear) of trans.
trans gauge sensor location =
test port.
caution: some (autometer for example) include temp sending units that are too long with the gauge.make sure to use a short sending unit if installing here.
temps seen on gauge w/ temp sensor at the test port would be ideally 170-180 at all times (it reflects the pan temps extremely close.) but it wont be perfect all the time.
150 (once up to operating temp) to 225 (towing heavy uphill) is safe (for 20k mile flush intervals.)
of course adding a larger cooler to keep temps down around 175 at all times would be ideal,but then with a cooler this large comes a con.she won't want to come up to ideal 175 temps either.you want 150 min.so then one would need to install a 180 t-stat to help it out.of course a Texas truck is going to be different than a Alaskan truck,so a t-stat "may" not even be required.i always say temp gauge first and run it how you do for a bit,then you can figure out what to do for aux cooler size and t-stat better,to help get closer to 175F perfection.
here is why.i also shared the same concerns:
E40D test port depth?
don't risk it.go with the shorty:
or just run down to your local hardware store and look for something like a bushing that'll only allow it to go in so far.
#6
01-24-2014, 09:06 AM
Join Date: Feb 2010
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#7
01-24-2014, 01:05 PM
What trans do you have? I know on the c6 I have 2 ports. One on the drivers side by the kick down bar and one on the passenger side by where the VRV hooks up. The one on the drivers side is plenty deep, but the one on the passenger side is much shallower and would require the shorter sensor,
Just some info from when I put mine in.
Just some info from when I put mine in.
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