John,

Yeah this is the 22 Gallon or smaller of the two tanks offered with the bed on you can not see the tank. For right now until I trade with a friend in East Tennessee the filler neck is going to run up along the inside of the back part of the left rear fender. I have a Hagan's gas door to go into a regular fender once I swap out my spare tire fender. Thanks for looking and I will post more photos soon.

 

Looks good.
I want to get the tank out of the cab on my '56.
That would help in keeping the rearend on the ground for traction too.

I don't like the idea of the fill spout in the bed. It's a truck, and the bed might be full at times, let alone spillage.

Let me know when you get a photo of your fill spout.
You can even e-mail it to me.

 

It looks like a 77-78 AMX or 78-83 Concord or 80 Eagle tank would also work based in the dimensions. The tank is 22 gallons and 32.5" X 25.25" x 9 5/8". I have not tried this but am considering it. The filer tube exit looks like it would exit out the back cross meember instead of into the bed which is what I was looking ofr. The tank is available from www.1aautomotive.com for $129. If someone tries this let me know as I have not done so yet.

 

Slick Mo Fo

The filler neck will not and really can not come up thru the bed. the tank is a side fill.

 

I just filled up my tank this morning.
Man I got to get that thing out of the cab.

I'm gonna start looking in the junk yards.

 

What's the problem with having it in the cab?

 

Let me count the ways

1- extra room behind the seat
2- weight transfer
3- fumes
4- safty
5- noise from the sender hitting the tank wall
6- see 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5

 

Lets see:

1- extra room behind the seat ( How much would you store back there?)
2- weight transfer ( May help with traction but too big of tank will make the ride worse and make it harder to keep the truck straight)
3- fumes ( Good quality hoses prevents this )
4- safety ( Doesn't a cab protect the passengers? So it would protect the tank from collisions, dints and rust.
5- noise from the sender hitting the tank wall ( I have never heard this. I have driving down a field with our '65 M-350 with bumps that I hit the roof with my head)
6- see 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5 (see my points)

 

OK'
1- not that much
2- wouldn't put that big of a tank. But with weight in the back, it rides allot nicer.
3- I have a steel line coming out, I'll check the fill spout
4- good point
5- not sure why it's doing that, but I'm gonna pull the sender and see if something's loose
6- I see you points

This is why guys like me test the water before diving in.

Let's see what the others have to say.

 

You have some good points. In my case, none of them are big issues, but I can see where many folks would like to change some of those things.

WRT the safety issue, there have been a number of discussions about the pros and cons. I saw a very nice summary in an NTSB bulletin that essentially said:

1. The location of a ruptured tank with any appreciable fuel in it is not a significant issue.
2. The most desirable place for storing fuel is in a central, well-protected location in the vehicle.

What they meant by #1 is that, IF you're tank gets ruptured and a significant amount of fuel spills out, it doesn't matter (safety-wise) if it's in the cab with you or under the bed.

As far as #2 goes, have you ever been to a demolition derby? Every one I've ever been to required that a fuel tank be located on the floor in the center of the passenger compartment for safety reasons. The original tanks were not allowed to have any fuel in them.

Seems like the safety issue of moving the tank out of the cab is sort of a moot point based on both expert opinion and many years of practical experience.

 

We try to help. You should also have the filler tube on the drivers side like all the other domestics unless you want to use the import side. BTW I'm keeping mine in the cab. I'm staying on the light side.

 

Isn't this what made the Pinto so famous?

 

I think the tank would be safer in the cab. If you got hit so hard that the tank was in danger, you would already be dusted.

And with it in the back, isn't that what made the Pinto so famous?

For weight maybe I'll box in my bumper and fill it with lead.

Nathan, how would you switch the fill spout to the other side?

 

Slick Mo,

You are correct that is what made the Pinto so famous. I wonder why though everybody that sells Aftermarket tanks sells rear mount or under the bed mount tanks? The Big three Automakers most of their passenger vehicles have rear mount tanks. I guess we are all at risk daily. It is just a matter of preference also. I wanted to get mine from underneath but still have it between the frame rails. Since these trucks were built when manufacturers still used good raw materials if someone were to any of us driving a Old Ford truck from behind unless they were in a tank or a 18 wheeler barrelling down hill chances are we would be as good if not better off than the person he hits us from the rear. Imagine ford Focus or Honda Civc hitting me from the rear. They probably are going to lose first. Plus my truck has an inertia switch to shut off the flow of fuel. Once again it is all choice. I just wanted to show my truck because I was:

1. Proud of my junkyard research. My wife thinks I am crazy because I go to junkyards around Tennesse because it is both relaxing and fun to me to find things. I have had 5 of Old T-bird Tilt Swingaway columns (Swinging the neck of the column over in a truck looks so cool) and 4 Chevy Van Tilt columns in the last year.

2. Show the budget builder like me a cheaper but reliable replensible way to get a rear mounted tank without breaking the bank.

If you turned the tank around you could mount the filler neck to come out the right hand side.


Talk to you all later.

 

Tacson,

The results of your wrecking tours are much apreciated.

I plan to use as many wreckin yard componants as I possibly can, for several reasons -

1. It's my nature, being 5th generation Scottish and all, we tend to be pretty close with a buck. (Frugal , not cheap)

2. It'll reduce the overall cost of getting Euphemia on the road by a substantial amount.

3. It's more fun adapting stuff than just buying big dollar stuff off the shelf.

My last complete rod - a 48 Chev coupe received all the following parts from wrecking yards -

engine, tranny, rear end, rad, gas tank, wheels, wiper motors, trim pieces, 4bbl and intake manifold.....

engine needed bearings, everything else worked fine.

So keep those tour results coming.

Later,