All put together and not a puff of smoke. Injector lines bled glow plugs working good batteries and starter. Im not trying to send to shop but im at my breaking point.

 

How is your timing? If you have fuel and heat, it should fire, unless the timing is way off.

 

when you say "all put together" what do you mean by that? in other words,to what extent did you have things apart,and before you had it apart,was it running fine?
do you have power to the fss?

 

I had the pump off injectors out cleaned the fuel lines and put all back together with new return lines . And fss is working

 

You're going to have to crank for several minutes /best case/ to purge the air from the lines.
In order to do this:
1. Remove the spring from the throttle, and pop the cable off. Push the throttle lever on the IP all the way to max. It should stay there.
2. Crack each one of the high pressure lines at the injector.
3. Pull the little booted wire off the starter solenoid on the passenger's side fender.
4. Turn the key on, put it in neutral/park.
5. Grab a screwdriver and crank the engine from in front. This will allow you to watch things.
6. Crank the engine ~20s at a time, giving it a couple of minutes to cool down, until you get some fuel out around the top of the injector(usually comes out where the line comes up from the collar).
7. Tighten down the lines, turn the key off and on again to get some glow plugs, and crank the engine. Be ready to pull the throttle back to around idle when it finally starts. It will start horribly rough; give it a few minutes to even out before killing the engine and putting things back together.

Also, if at the last stage you are getting smoke but it won't start, a little ether may be called for, to give it enough of a boost to get it to fire up(remember, due to lack of pressure, at this point you'll be firing on less than 8 cyls).

 

how was the ip removed? was it replaced with a used/reman or same ip? did the engine run ok before? if you removed the ip correctly,and it's known to work,then the above instructions will get ya going.if you pulled the timing gear cover,we can help you figure out how to line things back up.

 

It was replaced with same IP . I had to crank it a couple of times when cleaning the injector bores and the IP was off the gear would that mess it up with timing

 

I fear that's what happened.

 

Darn rookie lol . How do I go about checking to make sure I didn't mess that up.

 

If the pump was removed and the gear was left in the housing, there is not enough clearance inside the housing to allow the gear to disengage and get out of time. If the gear was removed, or the housing was loosened enough to allow the gear to skip teeth, then you are going to need this:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...alignment.html

But from the sound of it, it seems like you left the gear in the housing so it should be fine. I would continue to bleed the system. Even if fuel is coming out at the injectors, there can still be a bubble that compresses rather than overcome the pop pressure of the injectors. Don't shoot me for this suggestion, but you can disconnect the glow plugs, crack a few injectors and then try to start it with ether. Sometimes getting it to run a second or two on just ether can help bleed pesky air bubbles.

 

Well good,I am glad I was wrong.

 

I just pull the core out of the Schrader valve. Once you get fuel out of it there's about 30 seconds of cranking left from what I remember.

 

I can't get nothing been trying for two days could I just need to adjust the pump a little IRS to the driver aide past the center line mark about a quarter inch.

 

A quarter inch is a long long way to be past that line. I have always started with the two lines lined up to each other. And I've done that 3 times with it working every time.

 

I'm gonna start back at it as soon as I get off work and post back with updates and use the information you guys provided thanks again . I made it to far to let a shop just get it started for me.