While not directly applicable to this incident, if you pull the front cover plate, align the bolts in a consistant way(I aligned the pin to the top, one bolt to the bottom), you can then remove the IP cover and IP without any issues... so long as you don't move the engine at all, you can just drop it down into place and be correct on your timing.

 

I've checked everything from the fss to redoing my return lines twice went and filled three diesel cans up from a store across town to make sure it was good and poured it in the front tank . I've cracked and recracked injectors for two hours to find no bubbles . Is a compression issue possible or can the injector pump get weak enough not to pop injectors or could injectors just not pol from sitting . Those are my three wonders of the issue at hand or maybe by chance the IP gear could have jumped while cranking with pump off to blow out carbon from injector bores.

 

so you hear the FSS clicking? you have the correct line plugged to it.didn't mix those up? you even tried running a devoted hot line right to it from a battery,for good measure? you know the ip worked.you just took it out and put it right back in.you have the old gal on the block heater? do the gp's work? is she spraying fuel like crazy from a cracked open injector line while cranking the engine over? is there white smoke coming from the exhaust? is it turner over nice and fast? while cranking and with the gp's disabled,does it fire at all on starting fluid?
we're not there.you have to post details.the more the better.

now i suppose there is also a good question gone unasked.you removed the ip to clean this up you said.why and how so?
generally if someone wants this clean,a lot of work saved with just shooting it with a can of engine degreaser and done.whats the story on pulling the ip,simply to clean it and put it back?

maybe even consider going right back to the very beginning.your driving down the road and you think......i should pull that ip and those injectors.........why think that? then tell us how you removed everything,what was done to them in full detail,then how everything was resembled.

 

You're motor worked before you decided to clean everything, right? Then no, it can't be compression. The only way it could be compression is if you don't have those injectors torqued down correctly and new copper crush washers. You need to use new copper crush washers everytime you remove the injectors (so I've been told).

Try that devoted hot wire to the fss to make sure you hear it clicking, be 100 percent positive.

Is there any smell of diesel in the motor bay. How about around the fuel tank selector? Even the smallest air intrusion in the fuel/air relief lines can cause a big issue.

 

If I understand you correctly, you turned the motor over while the injector pump was removed, is that correct? If so then this is your issue: you're out of time!

 

We keep talking circles around this. If his IP housing and gear were left in place, the teeth cannot un-mesh and the injector pump timing cannot change. If the timing marks on the pump and housing are lined up, it should be close enough for it to at least start and run, then dial it in from there. Something else is going on. X2 on jump wiring the FSS just to be positive sure it is open, and try bleeding air out of the filter by cracking while an assistant cranks it. Cover it with a rag as fuel will spray out. If no go, disconnect GP's and try the ether trick, sprayed on the filter itself, not down the intake hole. Btw if you are getting fuel you should have stinky white smoke after extensive cranking.

 

Ah, right. We did already address that. I blame it on how late it was and how tired I was when posting that.

 

OK took everything back apart and put it all back together checking for cracked return caps with a magnifine glass , replaced all copper crush washer in injectors made sure all steel lines were clean which were before cause they were all spewing fuel . I replaced a return line clamps with real hose clamps . Checked glow plugs to make sure they weren't burnt out and they had a nice glow to them . Ran a dedicated switch to fss which clicks when applied . Replaced gp relay with new one . Lined up pump and pump housing marks.The thing I didn't do was put turbo back on cause I noticed the wheel had a lil play in it side and looks like it had been rubbing .I'll put a pic in my album tomorrow .I put in one of those Mr green electric diesel pumps to make priming easier . Tomorrow I'll start the line purging and checking for leaks and hopefully get this thing running.

 

While I've said this before, I want to reiterate: Make sure the pedal is to the floor/throttle lever all the way towards the rear of the engine before attempting to purge the lines.
This will give you more fuel every shot, and thus, a lot less cranking time.
I recall one user here who left it at idle, and burned two starters up trying to get fuel. Once he realized it needed to be floored, a few minutes and he had fuel.

Not saying this is the problem here, but it's important.

 

X2!!!!!!!!!

 

Still no start

 

Do we have fuel?
Did you do what was explained here, and if so, exactly what?

Take some pictures please, if you can.


Are you getting fuel /to/ the pump? If you loosen the tube from the filter going into the middle of the IP, do you get fuel dripping out of it when you crank? Make sure you're getting low-pressure fuel to the IP.

Then, getting fuel /from/ the pump. Pull one of the lines off completely; I'd take one of the two that are there at the top of the IP so you can get to it easily. With that line off and the throttle floored, are you getting diesel squirting from the fitting on the IP?

Until both of these things are good, you don't have a chance.

 

Did you have the cover off the pump?

 

I'm getting fuel and its a good amount. Its weird I have plenty of fuel and fss works and can't get a puff out of this thing

 

It sounds like you have gone through and checked all the stuff it usually would be. I have read through this thread a few times and am getting frustrated myself.....so I can imagine you are wanting to take a sledge hammer to it. The thing is that you only need a few things for it to run. Fuel, air, compression and some heat. The issue has to be in one of those. You have verified that you are getting fuel all the way to the injectors. You mentioned it is a turbo, but you have the turbo off....not sure if this would have enough effect on the AIR portion of the equation to make it not run. You said you verified the heat (GP's). Since it was running before, compression should be good unless something wasn't put back right (GP, injectors) that is keeping it from happening. Though the probability of loosing enough compression on multiple cylinders is pretty low.

If you have verified that you have all 4 of these things then the timing of the events has to be off. While I know we have discussed it and it appears that is couldn't have jumped a tooth, I think we are at a point where you should check it to remove it from the equation.