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Set pop back to line up marks on pump and gear housing and still can get nothing . I'm getting fuel to all injectors . No leaks in return lines and a helper e pump to make sure fuel is flowing . I think its just my luck it won't run but did when bought. All I did was clean it up should have left alone .
He's right. That's the exact article I used when I *Stupidly* took the whole sha-bang off (that is, the pump and timing gear cover together)
It worked like a charm, and the "Talk About Timing" article is very easy to understand. I'm off of school tomorrow, but I do have work starting at 4. I can stop by and give you a hand tomorrow if your interested and see what I can do to help.
In place of using that Liquid Engine Destroyer, I have had great success using a rag lightly soaked in gas, and hold it over the intake while someone else cranks. Be careful though, sometimes the rag can get sucked in so I've heard.
The science behind it is the gas gets sucked into the cylinders and the fumes ignite. That trick is what I use when it's been really cold like has been lately (My truck doesn't want to start below 40)
Thanks X but I have to work till this Sunday . Were getting behinda lil bit which is good but don't wanna loose no work . If available Sunday would appreciate the help I removed both motors and installed one by myself . I'm a little over the truck but love it so I'm not giving up on it lke an ex .
Thanks X but I have to work till this Sunday . Were getting behinda lil bit which is good but don't wanna loose no work . If available Sunday would appreciate the help I removed both motors and installed one by myself . I'm a little over the truck but love it so I'm not giving up on it lke an ex .
I would like to come help you but unfortunately I'm not flexible these next few weeks. Between school I'm working roughly 35 hours. Sunday I'm working 10-6. Maybe I'll be free again next Sunday, but I wont find out until next Monday.
Just don't give up, keep plugging at it. It took me 4 months to get my truck running. I can't even begin to tell you how many times I just wanted to Part it out and scrap the rest. I'm glad I stuck with it though.
Just for my knowledge...we r saying his up timing gear is out of time, correct? So turning the motor over without the ip attached, even if he didn't remove the ip timing gear cover, can cause it to jump teeth?
well he says he spun the engine over without the ip on the gear.this explains why it's not running.
if he correctly removed the ip using the 3 small bolts through the inspection cover,leaving the timing gears alone,then the engine would have fired right back up when he put it together (after being primed again of course) even if he turned the engine over to clean injector bores,because the timing gears would have remained all in time still.with the timing gear off the top.......that's all she wrote,once he turned the engine.it's strongly advised to not remove the timing gear housing to change the ip because just setting it back on could lead to misalignment,without even turning the engine.have it off and turn the engine over,it's a sure thing the timing gears are off and she'll never run.
thats good news then.then she just isn't primed yet.with the key on,do you hear the FSS clicking when you remove and attach the power wire? do you have fuel being sprayed out from a loose injector line while cranking?
A way to see if the FSS is clicking, take an aligator clamp wire and jump it from the Positive Battery Terminal and hook it up the FSS tab. You will hear a very audible THUNK If its engaging like it should. Also make sure the throttle is fully engaged, as that helps prime the system faster.
It took me 3-4 days to get my system bled (I kept killing the batteries).
Never removed IP gear or cover I read up and seen that's a big no no.
Heh, I made that mistake. Luckily though the process of realigning it takes only 30 minutes, it's not too bad with the method I used from that "Talk About Timing!" article.
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