Charging Problem
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Onlsow, NC
Charging Problem
Leading up to this I've never had a problem starting my truck. Go out Friday morning and it was dead. 10.25 volts on one battery, 10.5 on the other. Pull them out, get them charged back up, start the truck and check the voltage coming out of the alternator. 12.3 volts. Simple enough, go to Auto Zone, have them test it, alternator's not charging, get a new one and install it. Did this on Saturday. Prior to replacing the alternator, the battery light NEVER came on.
This evening, i was on my way home from out of town and the battery light came on. Stopped at the nearest Auto Zone and got them to test it, and the tester says it wasn't charging. Double check it with a multi meter and got 14 volts at both the alternator and the battery. Double checked all the connections, they're all good. Checked the fuses, they're all good. Headed home and about another 10 miles down the road and the light goes out.
Any Ideas?
'03 7.3L 4x4 single alternator
This evening, i was on my way home from out of town and the battery light came on. Stopped at the nearest Auto Zone and got them to test it, and the tester says it wasn't charging. Double check it with a multi meter and got 14 volts at both the alternator and the battery. Double checked all the connections, they're all good. Checked the fuses, they're all good. Headed home and about another 10 miles down the road and the light goes out.
Any Ideas?
'03 7.3L 4x4 single alternator
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Onlsow, NC
The new alternator was bench tested when i bought it yesterday. I know parts can be bad out of the box, but what I don't understand is why I'm reading 14 volts with a multi meter, while that sophisticated, technologically advanced tester at Auto Zone reads 12, and the battery light comes on. But that battery light did not come on with the old alternator that i got a 12 volt reading on my multi meter and that tester Auto Zone uses. (notice i don't have much confidence in a tester designed to replace technical expertise)
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Onlsow, NC
I check the alternator and battery connections first thing.
As far as the bench test, they did it back behind the counter. Just guessing, but i suspect the person testing it was following a one size fits all instructions sheet. As time goes by it just seems to get harder and harder to find some one who is actually knowledgeable about what they sell or test.
I can try swapping the alternator again tomorrow. I just don't want to drive 30 minutes one way to get another alternator, just to find that's not my problem.
As far as the bench test, they did it back behind the counter. Just guessing, but i suspect the person testing it was following a one size fits all instructions sheet. As time goes by it just seems to get harder and harder to find some one who is actually knowledgeable about what they sell or test.
I can try swapping the alternator again tomorrow. I just don't want to drive 30 minutes one way to get another alternator, just to find that's not my problem.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,370
Likes: 1,858
From: Frederick, MD
Alternatively could you just put a guage on the truck and monitor it yourself vs a idiot light?
We got a alternator from advance for our mountaineer a couple years ago. Only lasted about 6 months. SUV would be dead. Alternator tested fine.
Bench testing confirmed bad...after I insisted they were not testing it right...
We got a alternator from advance for our mountaineer a couple years ago. Only lasted about 6 months. SUV would be dead. Alternator tested fine.
Bench testing confirmed bad...after I insisted they were not testing it right...
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 545
Likes: 5
From: FL
If your new alternator is a "remanufactured " one , then you are not alone with your experience . We are hearing this kind of stories at various forums .
You may consider of buying an OEM brand new replacement.
Good luck,
You may consider of buying an OEM brand new replacement.
Good luck,
Trending Topics
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
Pull each battery and load test them separately disconnected from the truck. My money is on bad batteries as well as a weak alt. Find a dedicated Alternator, generator, starter, battery repair shop in your area and work with them. Verify the alternators ground is good. IMO The Big Box places lack the expertise. All connections from the batteries to the starter need to be clean & bright. The cables need to be low resistance too. Check out this thread. The second page has a great way to look for voltage drops.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...=droldsmorland
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...=droldsmorland
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Onlsow, NC
Already did that. Both batteries were good. I should hope so, i spent $209 apeice for Optima's less than a year and a half ago. I took the new alternator back to autozone, they ran it on there tester and it tested good. They replaced it under warranty anyways. Put it in and so far so good. Time will tell...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Diverdan0430
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
Jun 19, 2017 02:30 PM
flybyu26
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
15
Jan 6, 2014 07:44 PM
