idle not maintained
Hard to start...Once warmed up....will not idle ( drives it by constantly throttling)
It has exhaust leak and has been running fine (noise) since purchased
Choked float blades seem to operate and position correctly (fully horizontal/vertical)
Was running hot (and dumping fluid out drain hose)...replaced radiator cap and the thermostat
Still idle issue after overheat issue fixed
, thought it was it
Any thoughts...I think he in for the long haul in repairs with this truck
We thought the idle needed to be adjusted..nope
Carburetor (gasket..)? Vacuum leak (don't see any vacuum lines) condenser changed when we got it (1st day breakdown) .. points?..timing (how would it get off)?
Thanks Rick
rlranch@att.net
Probably the easiest solution with Y blocks that have original or suspect dampers is to use a vacuum gage to set timing, as well as the idle mixture.
Timing, Idle and idle mixture all interact with each other and a vacuum gage is invaluable when working with old iron, quick and easy and accurate.
The idle problem could also be carb related, likely a vacuum leak around worn throttle shafts or even float level. Does idle improve if you close the choke a bit?
First, and my suspicion, is that it is running very rich. This can cause rough idle and running hot. Does the exhaust smell "gassy"?
Second could be a vacuum leak. This could be around the base of the carburetor as well as and hoses. When it is fully warmed up, does it run better with the choke partially closed? You can usually find an exhaust leak by spraying carburetor cleaner around the base of the carb, while idling, ans listening for a drop in rpms.
Third could be a head gasket or burnt valve issue. You can get a fair assessment of this by doing a compression test.
Also, pull the spark plugs and compare their condition to a chart like this one,
MudInMyBlood Forums Spark Plug Color Chart
These as well as the previous suggestions should give you a good starting point.
However, now we have bigger fish to fry first: now the alarm won't open doors..The alarm activation light is not even blinking in the cab.. God I hope it's just the battery and no he had no door key...its a 24 yo were talking about!
However, now we have bigger fish to fry first: now the alarm won't open doors..The alarm activation light is not even blinking in the cab.. God I hope it's just the battery and no he had no door key...its a 24 yo were talking about!
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At the factory, a rubber gasket is placed between the outer pulley and inner damper, then the three parts are pressed together forming a one piece assembly.
Over time, the gasket age cracks/shrinks, causing the outer pulley to begin to "walk away" from the inner damper.
It not noticed, the pulley will separate, fly off, taking assorted belts along with it. May end up in the radiator core. Not pleasant!
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